Steelsoldiers’ BIG M1152A1 HMMWV Project!!

[steelsoldiers]

It’s alive!! I ran a new piece of 3/8” line from the inlet on the mechanical pump to a jerry can full of diesel. It only took a few seconds of cranking to get fuel to the filter inlet. Another few seconds got it running out of the filter bleed valve. A little more cranking got it sputtering and then running! Also, as you will see in the video, I have a significant exhaust leak at between the passenger side up-pipe and the turbo. But at least it runs!

M1152A1 HMMWV fuel system priming and first cold start

My HMMWV lost prime after the check valve in the supply line cut off the fuel. I ran a rubber line into a jerry can full of diesel and then began priming the...

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Now, I just need to figure out what’s wrong with the pump supply line. I’m thinking it’s the check valve, but we’ll see.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Well, look what I found last night! The broken bolt, washers, and dust cover from the missing belt tensioner! They were sitting on top of the steering box. No idea how they managed to stay there with all of the transportation it has seen. Good thing I already ordered some replacement parts lol.

The only good thing is I now now exactly how much of the broken bolt remains in the hole. Looks to be less than half an inch. That means I may be able to get it out with a reverse drill bit or extractor after a little Kroil and heat. Fingers crossed!

 

[TOBASH]

Before extraction, I might use some taps and or acid to clean the threads before using penetrating fluid. It might be nice to use plumbers acid to eat out some of that rust prior to trying to use an easy out, in my humble opinion. If you already used penetrating fluid, heat from a blow torch will evaporate it and get things ready for plumbers acid, which is actually hydrochloric acid.

clean threads might help with clean extraction.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Before extraction, I might use some taps and or acid to clean the threads before using penetrating fluid. It might be nice to use plumbers acid to eat out some of that rust prior to trying to use an easy out, in my humble opinion. If you already used penetrating fluid, heat from a blow torch will evaporate it and get things ready for plumbers acid, which is actually hydrochloric acid.

clean threads might help with clean extraction.

Great tip! Thanks! The bolt broke off almost completely flush with the front of the hole, so I think I may be okay without the acid treatment. I’ll keep you posted!

 

[TOBASH]

Great tip! Thanks! The bolt broke off almost completely flush with the front of the hole, so I think I may be okay without the acid treatment. I’ll keep you posted!

Use a Dremmel with a flat round cutting wheel to cut a straight slot across the top of the remaining bolt and twist out with a flathead screwdriver. I have posted about this method before. It works great! If you need more torque on the screwdriver, attack a vice grip to it perpendicular to the shaft for leverage twisting.

If the broken bolt is deeper, use a thin tip on the Dremmel to scribe a channel across the top of the bolt and use the screwdriver in that channel.

If the broken bolt is deeper, use a thin tip on the Dremmel to scribe a channel across the top of the bolt and use the screwdriver in that channel.
If the broken bolt is deeper, use a thin tip on the Dremmel to scribe a channel across the top of the bolt and use the screwdriver in that channel.

If the broken bolt is deeper, use a thin tip on the Dremmel to scribe a channel across the top of the bolt and use the screwdriver in that channel.

[EDIT-This method is much faster and easier than “easy outs”]

 

[Mogman]

They generally break because the bolt was loose, should not be a big chore to remove, fingers crossed!!

 

[TOBASH]

They generally break because the bolt was loose, should not be a big chore to remove, fingers crossed!!

I agree. My experience is that usually they shear off and are loose. A Dremmel and a flathead work really well.
First time I did this was 30 years ago when the support for the Z arm on my manual 1979 trans am sheared off flush on the engine block. Garage wanted to charge 1500 to pull the engine and drill it out. I spent 50 bucks for a mini Dremmel and I was driving the car two hours later.

 

[steelsoldiers]

They generally break because the bolt was loose, should not be a big chore to remove, fingers crossed!!

You are correct, sir!

As soon as I started drilling into the broken piece, I could see it turning in the hole. I’m sure the Kroil soak helped a little. Thankfully, I was able to use an angle adapter on my impact driver along with some good sharp bits to drill a large enough hole in it to insert my trusty bolt extractor. (It’s the same extractor that saved my butt when I broke a starter bolt off in my CUCV’s block circa 1994 LOL) Once I tapped the extractor in, it was loose enough to back right out, so I chucked it into the angle adapter and it came right out!

Wooooo! Didn’t have to pull the big pig of an alternator!!

Just finished blowing it down with the air gun, so now it’s time to start putting it back together!!

 

[Mogman]

You are correct, sir!

As soon as I started drilling into the broken piece, I could see it turning in the hole. I’m sure the Kroil soak helped a little. Thankfully, I was able to use an angle adapter on my impact driver along with some good sharp bits to drill a large enough hole in it to insert my trusty bolt extractor. (It’s the same extractor that saved my butt when I broke a starter bolt off in my CUCV’s block circa 1994 LOL) Once I tapped the extractor in, it was loose enough to back right out, so I chucked it into the angle adapter and it came right out!

Wooooo! Didn’t have to pull the big pig of an alternator!!

Just finished blowing it down with the air gun, so now it’s time to start putting it back together!!

I was cleaning up one corner of my shop yesterday and found my set of left hand drill bits, I bought them probably 35 years ago but have never been able to find them when working on a broken bolt, I put them where i know I can find them next time.........

 

[TOBASH]

You are correct, sir!

As soon as I started drilling into the broken piece, I could see it turning in the hole. I’m sure the Kroil soak helped a little. Thankfully, I was able to use an angle adapter on my impact driver along with some good sharp bits to drill a large enough hole in it to insert my trusty bolt extractor. (It’s the same extractor that saved my butt when I broke a starter bolt off in my CUCV’s block circa 1994 LOL) Once I tapped the extractor in, it was loose enough to back right out, so I chucked it into the angle adapter and it came right out!

Wooooo! Didn’t have to pull the big pig of an alternator!!

Just finished blowing it down with the air gun, so now it’s time to start putting it back together!!

I respect your marriage and commitment to family, but never work on a car while wearing a ring. If it gets crushed your finger can be lost. If it gets snagged your arm can be lost.

Things I’ve learned as a trauma surgeon

PS- great job on the broken bolt

 

[Mogman]

Not to mention burns, I got a wrist watch caught between a battery terminal on the back of an alternator and a manifold back in the 70s, looked like a bulldozer had walked around my wrist for a decade or so.

 

[steelsoldiers]

I respect your marriage and commitment to family, but never work on a car while wearing a ring. If it gets crushed your finger can be lost. If it gets snagged your arm can be lost.

Things I’ve learned as a trauma surgeon

PS- great job on the broken bolt

That’s typically my rule as well. Just forgot to take it off this morning.

 

[steelsoldiers]

My dad brought his borescope over today. Looks like I’ll be installing a new/rebuilt turbo. No telling how long it sat open to the weather. It looks like the hull of the titanic in there

 

[TOBASH]

My dad brought his borescope over today. Looks like I’ll be installing a new/rebuilt turbo. No telling how long it sat open to the weather. It looks like the hull of the titanic in there

What about just purchasing and replacing the cartridge? Cheaper and just as effective.

 

[steelsoldiers]

What about just purchasing and replacing the cartridge? Cheaper and just as effective.

Not opposed to that. Know of a good source for one?

 

[steelsoldiers]

After getting the broken bolt out of the pulley bracket, I gave everything a good cleaning and then installed the new pulley and serpentine belt. The good news is it fired right up and the belt didn’t fly off. The alternator is charging and the hydroboost is boosting. The bad news is I immediately had leaks in the hydroboost cooler lines, the fuel filter bleed line, and the dipstick tube.

The rubber lines were an easy fix, but the dipstick is gonna take some work. I tried pulling it out and putting a new o-ring on it, but no matter what I did, I couldn’t get the tube to seat in the oil pan. I think they make have bent it when they installed the rebuilt engine. I may just order a new one instead of screwing around with it anymore. Once I get that leak taken care of and bypass the check valve in the fuel pump supply line, I should be able to take it for a drive!

Here’s the startup video!

M1152A1 HMMWV first start with the rebuilt serpentine belt drive! #diesel #hmmwv #militaryvehicle

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[TOBASH]

Ok

Not opposed to that. Know of a good source for one?

I’d start with Travis at Rubber Duck, hummer parts guy, etc… Diesel rebuild shoppes should have ‘em too.

I’ll see what else I can find out.

Given the truck starts, you might wanna just clean and rebuild. Rebuild kits have bearings and such. You need to clock/mark the impeller blades on both halves to ensure you reassemble exactly as they came apart to maintain balance. A quick 30 second clean in plumbers acid followed by a scrub with a toothbrush should do wonders.

 

[Mogman]

If it were me I would not take it for a test drive or run it much at all until you get the turbo replaced or fixed, if that compressor wheel is out of balance and comes apart then you have shrapnel going into your cylinders, a little paranoid? maybe

 

[steelsoldiers]

I noticed my oil had a bit of a chocolate tint to it yesterday when it was pouring out of the dipstick tube hole. Fearing the worst, I rented a cooling system test kit this afternoon. I put 15psi on the system and immediately found three leaks on different coolant hoses. Thankfully, they all stopped after a little snugging of the clamps. Other than that, the only leak I could hear was around the test cap. I couldn’t get it to stop no matter what.

I left the system under pressure and used a rubber hose stethoscope to listen to the oil fill, intake, and dipstick tube, but didn’t hear anything. It lost 2psi in 10 minutes, but again, I couldn’t get the cap to stop leaking.

I went ahead and drained the oil. There was no rush of coolant from the bottom, just a slightly chocolate oil. I left the system under 15psi with a clean drain pan under the oil drain. I am going to leave it for a few hours to see if any coolant shows up in the pan.

The engine was left open to the elements for a long time and the valley drain is plugged. I suppose rain water could have found its way in there somehow. Or maybe it only starts leaking when it gets warm?

I really hope it’s not a head gasket or cracked something.

 

[Mogman]

Rain water could have gotten in through the damaged dipstick tube or some other route, it does not take much to taint the color.
Just keep an eye on the new oil.