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Steering column change

phat6

New member
26
1
3
Location
Jasper, IN
Ebay or most of the resellers have them. You will have to make the hole larger. The switch you ordered has 2 wires for each position you may have to solder them together and onto a single wire use it. A way to cheat is to take an old headlight bulb and cut the leads off. They already have the packard connector on one end and are nice thick wires.
Thanks! Found the part numbers (MS27144-1 & MS27142-2) and did a search for those part numbers and found these:


 

Gunzy

Well-known member
1,769
66
48
Location
Roy, Utah
I think you guys are over thinking a key. It would be simpler to just put a keyed on/off switch in place of the original battery switch.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
696
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I like having the keyed ignition maybe I'm just a creature of habit. The battery cutoff is ok I personally prefer the ignition though.
 

phat6

New member
26
1
3
Location
Jasper, IN
Thanks for the pics. Makes it seem simple--simple for someone to hotwire too!

Ordered one of these:



Perhaps by some miracle it will fit. If not, I guess I will have to make the hole bigger. Will have to splice into the wiring also.
Update: Switch does not come with the harness, so ordered the harness. So far my Bill of Materials (BOM):



Hopefully that does it and I can crimp up a complete assembly and then swap out with the existing switch.
 

phat6

New member
26
1
3
Location
Jasper, IN
Looks like 3/4" hole, so will have to enlarge the hole in the dash. Confirmed the pin-out in the datasheet. Also confirmed spring return is to run, not to off:

Looking at Connector Receptacle on Keyed Ignition Switch:

Connector Key on Top
6 1
5 2
4 3


Key in Off Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(6)
(2) Open
(3) Open
(4)-(5)


Key in On Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(3)-(4)-(5)-(6)
(2) Open


Key in Start Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(2)-(4)-(5)-(6)
(3) Open


Pin Off On Start
(1) +24V +24V +24V
(2) Open Open +24V
(3) Open +24V Open
(4) Open +24V +24V
(5) Open +24V +24V
(6) +24V +24V +24V


Pin
(1) +24V
(2) Start
(3) Accessories
(4) Run/Ignition
(5) Run/Ignition
(6) +24V
 

machinist75

Member
777
7
18
Location
Murphy, TEXAS
You could leave the old switch in its place and use one of the milspec angle brackets, like the ones that are used for the convoy light switch and put it under the dash. That way no hole drilling leaving the dash stock and you can always go back.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
696
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Pin 1 will be the 24volts going to the switch when the main power switch is turned on. Pin 2 will be your crank and pin 4 will be the run voltage. It needs to be energized when you are cranking to enable the fuel solenoid or you will just be cranking and never start due to no fuel.
 
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