Sticky for Gauge Install

[Sharecropper]

Like hundreds (or maybe even thousands) of other CUCV owners, I would like to install temperature and oil pressure gauges to monitor engine conditions. Let's face it - the Idiot Lights are for, well, idiots, I guess. Although a tachometer would be nice, such an instrument is not an absolute necessity to closely monitor the engine conditions which could destroy the thing quickly.

Gauges, gauges, gauges - I have searched on SS and then searched some more. I have read every thread I can find on the subject and, although enlightened, I am still confused with unanswered questions. It occured to me how helpful it would be if we could have a Sticky on the subject to ease the pain of obtaining the correct equipment and then hooking it up properly.

For those of you who have read my rebuild thread, you will see that in the three years that I have been working on my M1028 that I have waffled back and forth in regards to gauges. At first I had it all planned out - I would obtain a civi gauge panel and, over a few beers, simply "swap" the thing out. Well, we all know that wouldn't work without major re-wiring. So next I decided to buy some aftermarket gauges and cut out the instrument panel and mount these in place of the existing Idiot Lights. But after considering how this would look "non-military", I decided against it. I considered simply purchasing a kit from AutoZone and mounting them under the dash, however this reminded me too much of my '72 Camaro. After coming full-circle, I have purchased new HMMWV oil and temp gauges, which indeed retain the 'military" look. Now I've just got to figure out how to hook them up and where to mount them. Here's what I am considering - I think I will relocate the 24 volt meter from the upper AC vent space down to the radio block-off plate. Then I will fabricate a piece of 1/8" flat aluminum (painted 383 green) to mount onto the bezel with two appropriately-sized holes into which the HMMWV gauges will mount. This will position the two gauges high and easy to read. I have all this figured out, however this is where I get lost. What type of sending units do I need for these gauges, and where would they be installed in the engine? If I simply disconnect the temperature idiot light sending unit on the drivers front of the engine, and replace that with a gauge sending unit, would the idiot light stay on all the time or never come on? This is where I believe a Sticky would come in handy for everybody wanting to add gauges.

Here are some questions to be answered -

• Will the HMMWV gauges work (are they 24 volt?)
• Is it possible to simply replace the Idiot Light sending units with gauge-type sending units?
• If so, what brand and part number sending units?
• Where should the gauge running lights be wired from?

As usual, this post and these questions are intended to help all of us enjoy these great vehicles to their fullest. Please chime in.

 

[doghead]

We do not need a Sticky to answer your questions.

That's what threads are for.

Your simplest and best option is to add additional underdash gauges.

 

[forest522]

A very good series of questions. I have two such aftermarket gauges sitting on the shelf in line for install after I solve other more pressing issues. At least once a weekend I look at them, read the directions and ponder for a moment or two what I plan to do with them. The side by side of the same brand and appearance gauge up high where the 'stock' voltmeter is now is a good spot. Especially since the two gauges, engine temp and oil pressure, are ones I watch more than the voltage.

I agree with you, are there smarter ways to install them, will the temp light stay on if I replace the sending unit with the new gauge sending unit? Could I just use the existing sending unit's wiring to the new gauge?

Good stuff...

 

[cliffyp]

If you disconnect/remove the sending unit for the idiot light the dash light will remain off. You can swap the current temp sender with the appropriate sender for your gauge of choice. As far as illuminating gauges, I tied into the lighting for the volt meter. If I remember correctly you have the two wire clip behind the gauge and a separate black or gray wire that goes to the bulb. It's part of the dash lighting that comes on when when the headlights are activated.

 

[48cj2a]

I had purchased a donor truck for a replacement 6.2 Jcode engine. The truck had the factory gauges so I swapped the cab harnesses and meticulously traced the wiring to put the blackout circuit back in the civy harness. I lined the inner cluster with 3m aluminum tape and upgraded to red LED lamps.


Also used the civy engine harness and eliminated the 24v starting system at the same time including swapping to the civy dual battery brackets on each side of the radiator.

Pics of a few of my mods here: http://48cj2a.com/cucv.htm I need to put a write up for each as well.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Looks great 48cj2a! I'd love to go that route with gauges so I'll be on the lookout!

Mike

 

[Dave Kay]

Sharecropper; thanks for the ideas and info, I'm anxious to get 'gauged-up' a bit myself, but tend to agree with Doghead in that under dash is the simplest and that's what I need for now. Later on though, if advanced plans come to pass, I will post my results.

Had the same idea with HUMVEE gauges, seen 'em on eBay now and then, but like with the TACH there's the issues of is it 12/24 volt, of exactly where and how to hook up to the ALT, and as Murphy's Law is always in effect near me--- what if, as I've read, things don't work right--- how you/I/we gonna' know if it's the crummy used TACH or the way it's hooked it up? Right now bank account won't allow brave experimentation.

FYI, there is a thread on Diesel Place that goes into the aftermarket TACH/ALT discussion to some degree, but some of the info is either confusing, over my head or incomplete, hence, I've given up--- for now--- on the HUMVEE gauge project. TinyTach seems to be the easiest way to go for me until I can get time to research and experiment. Other than that all I need is a TEMP gauge and I'm set.

48cj2a; liked your dash upgrade mucho gusto, but finding factory stuff like that in decent condition is like hen's teeth. Anyway, I don't need super accuracy, just need certain gauges to give me ballpark numbers. So I wonder if anyone has tried fitting any aftermarket gauge in the hole where the idiot light(S) are located, retaining the rest of what is behind the cluster, without hacking things up? Meanwhile, I know there are aftermarket setups out there that replace ALL the old style gauges with new, digital, LED/LCD, iTunes/iPhone/iPad/Android wireless broadband texting compatible real-time traffic GPS locator gauges w/MP3 Player included... but $$$... just not my cup of tea.

Also liked the red LED's, very much in keeping with MIL-blackout conditions. But would you mind to please elaborate on the reason for 3M ALU tape lining the cluster? And about the red LED instrument dash lights? Saw these online when I was shopping for L194's and would like to know how well they've worked for you, or not. Example; do they dim with the headlight pot/switch like the filament bulbs? Are they too bright? Not bright enough? AND___Do half of them burn-out after only a month like the stupid stock L194's?

Would appreciate any input, PM me if you like

 

[dstang97]

never really understood why people put in new gauges. By the time you spend money and all the time, you could have just used that money to buy a whole motor or truck.

 

[Sharecropper]

dstang97 - CUCV's were designed with idiot lights to accomodate the multitude of intelectural levels of enlisted personnel who would be operating the vehicles. Now that we (you and I along with many others on SS) have elevated the preservation and restoration of these CUCV's to a higher level, the monitoring of engine conditions is more important. That's why we "put in new gauges".

Hope this helps.

 

[48cj2a]

dstang97 - I grew up driving GM trucks and always liked the factory gauge clusters from the early years up to present. For no more than what it would have added to the initial cost I think they should have been there stock in the CUCVs just like all the other Mil trucks like the M35s and M8XX/9XX 5 tons.

Dave Kay - the aluminum foil tape was to increase the reflective surface for maximum back lighting. The factory gauge lights are not the best when compared to my 98 Yukon or 03 Suburban and this does help quite a bit. Some paint them white or silver but I had the tape and figured a mirror would reflect more light that paint. Yes they dim just like the factory lights. I have not had any burn out yet and I think they could be even brighter so no they are not too bright. http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...194-led-bulb-5-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/199/ WLEDX5 bulbs


Doghead - Yes, under dash gauges are easy, relatively unexpensive but I just do't care for things hung under the dash and like the factory look.

I removed my second alt and don't plan to run any COMMO gear other than a factory Delco AM/FM radio and possibly a CB radio, making room for Factory A/C as soon as I locate and piece the 6.2 compressor, brackets and lines. I now have the firewall pieces from a donor K5 Blazer.

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

Pics of a few of my mods here: http://48cj2a.com/cucv.htm I need to put a write up for each as well.

Pics look great. I would love to see those in a write up.
Nice work.

 

[allenhillview]

Some have saw my gauges, some haven't, so anyone wanting to know why the thought went into this was all about looks and room, function, and in keeping it so it can go back to stock because no idiot lights or senders where removed in my install.

Dash pads are out there if mine cracks or brakes into. Awake at night just thinking and taking notes. So it is like this for me, used all like gauges, good but not the best, all mechanical so as to not add wiring everywhere and wonder how to fix later on, some have the tools some will need to borrow if you take the time for this to turn out. Just ask and I will help any who want to go this way or some advice on senders and locations.

You do need these gauges if you tow a lot, in stock form, and want your engine to last, these 1008 are not great on power but do it just right if you set them up right, there is no right or wrong just protection for that heat thats going to come with pulling in the mountains and 4000lbs + loads.

 

[scottladdy]

Some have saw my gauges, some haven't, so anyone wanting to know why the thought went into this was all about looks and room, function, and in keeping it so it can go back to stock because no idiot lights or senders where removed in my install.

Dash pads are out there if mine cracks or brakes into. Awake at night just thinking and taking notes. So it is like this for me, used all like gauges, good but not the best, all mechanical so as to not add wiring everywhere and wonder how to fix later on, some have the tools some will need to borrow if you take the time for this to turn out. Just ask and I will help any who want to go this way or some advice on senders and locations.

You do need these gauges if you tow a lot, in stock form, and want your engine to last, these 1008 are not great on power but do it just right if you set them up right, there is no right or wrong just protection for that heat thats going to come with pulling in the mountains and 4000lbs + loads.

Very nice work sir. My compliments.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

never really understood why people put in new gauges. By the time you spend money and all the time, you could have just used that money to buy a whole motor or truck.

Because some of us like a different look or function--its personal preference just like a lot of other non-OE 'upgrades' (spin-on filters, electric fuel pumps, led bulbs, 14-bolt rear ends, etc).

Some people like bone-stock. Some like to have every mod they can. Some (like me) like a mix of both.... I see this all the time. Why not just help out?