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straight or Offset shims with 28MT gear reduc starter

edpdx

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Location
Oregon
Gonna add shims to stop all the grinding. The TM shows a straight-ish looking shim- but this is for a Direct Drive starter. Is the gear reduction that I am using (28MT) the same or is the offset needed?
shimf.jpg
 

M1008driver

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http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/Starter-Service-Manuals/NO-SHIM-DRIVE-HOUSING-DESIGN.aspx

Do you have the brace and bracket #2 and #4 in the picture? Is your flexplate in good condition? The space between the starter and flexplate should determine if you need shims and I am reading on other forums the gear reduction starter does not.

All that said I would go with the shim most like the CUCV used, the straight one, if I shimmed my starter.

...the reason it chews up the four spots that you have indicated on the fly wheel is because thats where your fly wheel stops every time you turn off your motor, stops at either the 12 oclock,3,6, and 9 oclock postions becuase of the compression stroke. those four spots are where the starter engauges almost every time. if you havent tried shimming it, it might be worth a try.
 

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edpdx

Active member
794
75
28
Location
Oregon
The pack I bought- a HELP product was labeled "GM". It contained both "A" and "B" types in it. The "B"B variety were labeled various thickness'. The "A" all seemed to be the same. Looking at the TM, there is a shim that looks like the "A" type. I went with one of those since even though the starter changed from DD to gear reduc. type, the block is the same... so...

It worked fine. Starts up with no errant noises every time.

I hope this puts an end to my starter woes, and maybe someone else' down the road.

BIG THANKS TO ALL OF YOU THAT HAVE HELPED.
 

M1008driver

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Location
Great Falls, Montana
Noise is bad IMHO. My M1008 never makes a noise when I start. I hope you got it done.

[thumbzup]

EDIT- If it comes back I would be thinking about a bad crank. I hope not.
 
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