Survey...... "oil line of death 3116" (governor oil feed line)

[Floridianson]

I don't have a cat 3116, I a multifuel guy, but all in this thread is good learning stuff.

Yea but you have the Deuce and you know about the end fitting on the injection lines. They spin so when we tighten the lines down it does put a twist / tension on that steel line. We do have the anit vibration clamps put on and the injector lines do pulsate with the high pressure. That Cat line does not pulsate. I do not think it is a vibration thing that can be controlled. The engine and governor are bolted together so the only vibration is just what the anything running engine puts out other than the frequency. As said replace with one or the other. Then go get one of the oil change stickers and put on it the mileage and the oil line needs to be replaced in 30 years on you windshield corner out of the way. Occam's razor. Good thing as I said replaced mine and is sold plus going to South America. I guaranteed it would not rust , bust or collect dust for 2 days.

 

[Floridianson]

Now if you think vibrations are a cause we could try this. Take a piece of rubber hose the length of the straight part of the steel line. Slice it down the middle and rap it around the line. Use two hose clamps at both ends and tighten them up. Only problem is how will we test to see if our mods work or extend the life of the steel line. If you wanted to go a step farther a bracket to one of the hose clamps to a bolt on the block some where. Sorry guys still believe just replace it with a new one or the other and do not worry about it for quite a long time.

 

[Ronmar]

I am sure tying the center of the hoop to a bracket attached to the block would fix it. Every pic of a broken one I have seen has broken right where the tube is welded to the fitting boss. This is what indicates vibration to me, if it were some other cause they would break in different places, and not at the hinge point/end of the lever…

You could also confirm this by grabbing one at the middle of the hoop and start bending it in and out to see if you could duplicate the failure

 

[Floridianson]

Well I should have never said no way to test because there is if you want to measure the vibration / frequency at all rpm of the engine. Might even need to check running down the road if that might change things. Also the bracket to engine needs to be rubber mounted so a not to transmit any vibrations to the line. Guess you could try the bracket job and get back to us in 40 years. I might not be around but go ahead and post it.

 

[Ronmar]

Well I should have never said no way to test because there is if you want to measure the vibration / frequency at all rpm of the engine. Might even need to check running down the road if that might change things. Also the bracket to engine needs to be rubber mounted so a not to transmit any vibrations to the line. Guess you could try the bracket job and get back to us in 40 years. I might not be around but go ahead and post it.

You could use a rubber or foam mounted, or even stuffed in between the hoop in the tube and the head, but the flexibility of the rubber/foam would have to exceed the ammount of potential energy of the tube hoop when a vibration force is applied to it, so it can’t move.

You actually want the hoop rigidly attached to the head. The fittings are rigidly attached to the head, and it is the middle of the hoop moving independently of the fittings that causes the stress, work hardening, fatigue and failure, where the tubing meets the fitting. Like the ruler clamped to the bench, displace the end and release and it goes twang. Now slide a bench under the other end and clamp it down, no more twang…

You can get 3 axis bluetooth sensors reasonably cheaply that could probably document vibration levels… Collecting the data is easy, knowing wether it is normal or excessive would take a bunch of identical tests on different vehicles…

I should add, collecting data on a vehicle that has experienced this failure would also be necessary to try and identify a specific cause…

 

[Floridianson]

Found this interesting read. Just thought I would add. Maybe not only do we need to check for engine to steel line ends be parallel but after the governor line is tight the engine and steel lines should be touching or have no gap between them. Microsoft Word - ACTA-2014-3-21.doc (upt.ro)

 

[Floridianson]

My .02 again and how bout three choices I see. One new steel line correct line up ends parallel and no gap between engine and steel line after governor line tight. Two same as the first but with some kind of bracket rubber mounted. Three flex line of your choice. My steel line was rusted pretty bad so I chose to go with flex for no reason in particular reason just wanted to try and I like the looks and specs of the one I got. Now Wes did say if you are not careful in some cases if the line has a good pull and you have a right angle fitting it could pull on it enough counterclockwise to loosen the binding nut. So I put a good size plastic tie pulling up on my hose or clockwise pressure on fitting. Good luck with what ever way you decide.

 

[Ronmar]

I actually had that happen on a turbo oil line… WTH I know I tightened that fitting! Another fix is to deform the line loop slightly in the loosening direction as you tighten the fitting so the natural shape of the loop is then always applying force in the tightening direction…

 

[frank8003]

So, How big is the original line?
Is it 3/8" ID or 1/2" ID and how long is it?

 

[coachgeo]

So, How big is the original line?
Is it 3/8" ID or 1/2" ID and how long is it?

other threads on this topic hit on these type details.

 

[Floridianson]

I still like the slow radius bend of the hose I bought. This one might be fine but to me looks like one more degree of bend and were talking kink.

 

[frank8003]

So it is a 1/4" ID steel tube line terminating in fittings 7/16 20P?
The original line is brazed or welded?

 

[coachgeo]

So it is a 1/4" ID steel tube line terminating in fittings 7/16 20P?
The original line is brazed or welded?

Pretty sure no braze or welding on original. it is flared or??? with matching fittings.

 

[Ronmar]

Pretty sure no braze or welding on original. it is flared or??? with matching fittings.

I believe it is brazed into a fitting boss…

 

[Ronmar]

I still like the slow radius bend of the hose I bought. This one might be fine but to me looks like one more degree of bend and were talking kink.

Yea that is inside the 2” bend radius…

 

[frank8003]

Can somebody send me a failed one with the fittins?

 

[coachgeo]

I believe it is brazed into a fitting boss…

retreat to cave with egg on phase again

 

[wheelspinner]

Can somebody send me a failed one with the fittins?

I have one here somewhere I saved for posterity. Send me a PM

 

[frank8003]

Please post the CAT part number for it that got replaced Never mind I found it

NOS Genuine Caterpillar CAT 7W0367 High Pressure Tube Assembly 7W-0367

 

[frank8003]

Can anybody say what this fitting is?
I worked with many strange fittings on P&W engines but first I see this one.
Need nomenclature. All I find is "boss" connection.
It is P/N 6V8647
4730-01-360-9109 (6V8647)