Survival 109 build

[QUADJEEPER]

Got several small jobs done today. Figured with the new tires I'd better start covering them up from the sun, so I set up some tarps to shade them. Also finally got around to countersinking the floor screws per RAYZER. He said, and I agree that the screw heads would push up the vinyl floor covering. Hopefully picking that up this week. Also measured out my canvas for the booth seat cushions/bed so I can get it sewn on my foam. The rest of the canvas will be used for a storm cover around my rear deck extension, once that is built. Pulled the toolbox/step assembly so I can access the master cylinder bracket bolts, getting closer to swapping that over.

 

[rustystud]

What are you going to do with the master cylinder brackets ? Are you going to a different style of master cylinder ?

 

[KaiserM109]

You're an inspiration to all us M109 owners; if only mine had a decent engine!

You're gonna like how my 109 box looks on the back of my bobbed M923A1, though. I have my eye on an junk RV Winabago that I'm gonna pull the stove, sink, etc out of.

 

[RAYZER]

Great job Scott!
I like the D rings on the fenders,good idea!

 

[QUADJEEPER]

What are you going to do with the master cylinder brackets ? Are you going to a different style of master cylinder ?

Going to change over to a dual system.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

You're an inspiration to all us M109 owners; if only mine had a decent engine!

You're gonna like how my 109 box looks on the back of my bobbed M923A1, though. I have my eye on an junk RV Winabago that I'm gonna pull the stove, sink, etc out of.

Thanks KM. No guarantee's on my engine condition. I'm still looking for a very low cost RV bathtub, 36" x 24", seat type, R drain, just in case one floats by!

 

[turnkey]

Lots of work on the box.....Friend of mine went to help his brother in S. Dak. with a 109 rebuild to RV stuff....Only difference is they had a work shop and a crane to remove the box from the MV and work on each one at a different....He said they had some company come in and strip clean replace and repair the 109 box before starting on the rebuild.....Brother had a wrecked RV motorhome for the inside parts and tanks....Great work so far lots of good ideas again thanks for the input and showing it can get down.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Lots of work on the box.....Friend of mine went to help his brother in S. Dak. with a 109 rebuild to RV stuff....Only difference is they had a work shop and a crane to remove the box from the MV and work on each one at a different....He said they had some company come in and strip clean replace and repair the 109 box before starting on the rebuild.....Brother had a wrecked RV motorhome for the inside parts and tanks....Great work so far lots of good ideas again thanks for the input and showing it can get down.

Thanks turnkey. Yes it has been a lot of work, and will be for awhile. But lack of funds dictate I do it all myself in my back yard. It can be done, but takes time.

 

[rustystud]

Going to change over to a dual system.

That's the way to go alright ! I also like the shorter shaft air-pacs. I feel they are better made then the older long design.

 

[Another Ahab]

Got several small jobs done today. Figured with the new tires I'd better start covering them up from the sun, so I set up some tarps to shade them. Also finally got around to countersinking the floor screws per RAYZER.

I'm amazed how much you get done in a day, QJ; nice looking work, too.

Those look like hex-head screws, so how do you countersink those without losing the connection with the driver-head:

- Does the built-in washer on the screw just crush the wood ahead of the driver-head?

I'm thinking there'd be a problem there (it's like there's always a problem somewhere, right?), but maybe I'm wrong.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

I'm amazed how much you get done in a day, QJ; nice looking work, too.

Those look like hex-head screws, so how do you countersink those without losing the connection with the driver-head:

- Does the built-in washer on the screw just crush the wood ahead of the driver-head?

I'm thinking there'd be a problem there (it's like there's always a problem somewhere, right?), but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks AA, I don't get nearly as much done in a day as I used to or would like. Old age has a way of slowing a body down. Yes, hex heads with a flange. I used a countersink bit and set the screw so it was below the surface everywhere they are in an exposed floor area. I think that by doing that, will avert any issues. I hope.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Mid week update, ordered and received an axle set of new brake shoes, will be used on the front. Front shoes now are slightly contaminated, prefer good clean shoes. Talked to my upholstery guy today, says this canvas will work fine. Measured and cut the foam for the mattress/seat cushions this afternoon. Used a meat carving electric knife to cut it.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Picked up my vinyl flooring today. Paid more than I wanted to, was hoping for a cheap piece of remnant, but oh well.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Finally got my finish floor down today. Not trimmed out yet, but I'm happy with how it looks.

 

[59apache]

Sweet!

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Man am I tired. Nothing like trying to wrestle a 6" thick foam mattress into a 4" space. Story and pics to follow. Since I'm waiting on some positive cash flow, the floor trim out and the master cylinder swap projects are on hold. But I did get the twin foam mattress that I wanted for the cab to box pass through seal. So this am I marked out where I needed to cut the box front wall and the cab back wall. Once I did that, I could mark and cut the mattress foam to the correct size. I again used my electric carving knife from the kitchen ( I'm not married ) to cut the foam. After that was done, I took it outside and sprayed it with rubber spray designed for roof and gutter sealing. After multiple coats and letting it dry between coats, I tested it and it doesn't absorb water. I wanted to use the thick mattress foam to avoid having heat/cold/noise increases in the cab due to the cutout. So then I used a hole saw to cut the corners of the opening so that the metal would be less likely to crack and also so the boot I have ordered will have rounded corners to work with. Boot should be here tomorrow. Once I cut out the front box wall, it was easier to remove the cab window. You may notice the two openings don't line up well, where I have the truck parked is uneven, so the cab doesn't line up with the box.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Next I resprayed the foam with a few more coats of rubber. While that was drying, I cut out the back cab wall. Since the window opening was higher than the reinforcement bar below the box window, I had to add a filler panel in the upper cab window opening. Just used some of the holes from the window frame. Next was the fun (?) part. Stuffing a camel through a keyhole. At least that was what it seemed like.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

So I stuffed and stuffed and stuffed, after about an hour I got it all shoved down in between the box and the cab. Sprayed some more rubberized coating on it and later on in the week, will apply some liquid rubber to it as well. Hopefully the boot will be here tomorrow and I can get that installed.

 

[RAYZER]

Turning out nice!
Awesome!

 

[Another Ahab]

But I did get the twin foam mattress that I wanted for the cab to box pass through seal. So this am I marked out where I needed to cut the box front wall and the cab back wall. Once I did that, I could mark and cut the mattress foam to the correct size. I again used my electric carving knife from the kitchen ( I'm not married ) to cut the foam.

That electric carving knife worked like a charm on the foam cut-out; who'd have "thunk" it!?