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swapping out a transfer case. suggestions?

austinaubinoe

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Potomac, Md
Does anyone have pictures or a writeup of swapping out a transfer case safely and cheaply? I bought my 53 about 2 years ago now, and it has not left my yard. The stock input yoke is toast and I suspect internal damage. The guy I bought it from gave me an extra case, so Im just going to swap them out.

The case ways a ALOT (guessing 500 lbs). Ive done a clutch in a wrangler before, but this job is just big! Hoping to drive it up to college next semester!


how it currently sits:
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac23/austinaubinoe/20120605_165521.jpg

I have read something about people using a 4x4 over the door sills and supporting it with a come along while the unbolt it from the truck. Any idea how I can get the new transfer case out of the bed? How would YOU do it?

Thanks,
Austin in Maryland
 

SteveKuhn

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When mine was done, it was engine hoist to suspend and drop the TC onto a regular old moving dolly, then reverse to install. However, there are at least 6 threads with pictures that show other variations. The trick with the install is getting the weird tilt right. That can be tricky and tilting while on your back is just a bear. Do some searching and read up to see what's gonna work in your environment.

The TC weighs between 550 - 600 lbs. and to some extent it matters if it's in box or just laying there naked. The latter discourages sliding unless it's on a skid of some sort. You can't beat a fork lift. We took mine out of the m101 with an engine crane and the same would work from a truck bed provided the height is right. You can also dolly/come along down a set of ramps, flat-drag dolly onto a dock or birm or what ever floats your boat. They don't bounce real good, however. Watch yourself when the weight transfers to the crane from the bed.

And put some plywood down on that gravel everywhere things are expected to roll (or not) before you start or you'll hate yourself.

Good luck.

Steve
 

clinto

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searls84

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The 4x4 method will work, and works great. Don't put it across the doors, open the front windows and stick it front to back. Attach a block and tackle/chain hoist and your good to go! Not a hard job at all, just time consuming and HEAVY!ake sure to replace all nuts on the drive shafts and jack shafts. Another piece of advice, while your in there replace the rubber bushings in between the frame and the T-case mounts. A second person is also a must. Good luck!
 

SteveKuhn

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"...replace the rubber bushings in between the frame and the T-case mounts..."

Amen. They're cheap. If those are shot, they can actually mimick bad synchronizer gears and the TCase will pop out into neutral. Worked for a friend; unfortunately, not for me. It was the gears.

Steve
 

austinaubinoe

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Potomac, Md
Thanks alot guys! Now I remember why last time I was on here I was trying to see if I could just replace the input yoke thats cracked in half. The dude I bought it from says It was probably driven for a while with the broken part because it was owned by the national guard. They try to break the older trucks to get rid of them :(. So I figured I would save myself some disappointment by just replacing the whole thing.

Will definitely replace those mounts. Need to do a bunch of little things like filters, grease the zirks (ALOT!), and change out all the fluids.

So I guess I will need to remove the hardtop. I swear I read that the doors can hold the weight, but what you guys say goes. Can I order a new hardtop gasket, im sure the current one will disintegrate upon removal.

For getting the 'new' case out of the bed, I dont have a tractor. I was thinking about installing a mini crane of some sort in the bed. One that is fixed, but can swing out. Maybe this is stupid, I just could see this thing transporting engines in the future and its way to high for your standard engine cherry picker.
 

austinaubinoe

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Potomac, Md
I this this would be a better Idea:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-Ton-15-ft-Hand-Chain-Hoist-9675-20/203407511#.UVMs1VuY7DE

I found on on craigslist for a little over a $100. The new barn my dads building (frame from the 1890's!!) will allow the deuce to fit inside the main area, and it now has 6" of concrete under foot. The truck will move if I could the T case lever up.Id still have to take the cab off, but I think this would be the safest way to go.

Any suggestions on attaching a manual chain hoist to a 6x6 (think there BIG and dense old growth) beam?
 

austinaubinoe

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Potomac, Md
best picture I have of the interior of the barn...
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/au...492554393008_882969729_o_zpsb6bea71a.jpg.html

so there is no low beams in the main center area. Any ideas of mounting an I beam across? Or maybe making a portable I beam?
HMMMM something like this from northern? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-In...816?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0ac7f6e0
-this one may be a little to small. But im not apposed to buying one like it because I am also in need of an engine puller for my other summer project. Overhauling a 94 grand cherokee to make some cash!

Im just brainstorming here because I have a month left of school and I so want to get this on the road as quick as possible when I get on vacation.

THANKS!


-These guys are only 2.5 hours from my house, so I could pick it up. Wonder how much these would run. Probably about double the imported northern one, but id sure get alot of use out of it! http://www.wallacecranes.com/prods.htm
 
Last edited:

searls84

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Las Cruces, NM
.....So I guess I will need to remove the hardtop. I swear I read that the doors can hold the weight, but what you guys say goes. Can I order a new hardtop gasket, im sure the current one will disintegrate....

No need to remove the top, there is enough of a lip at the back of the cab for the 4x4 to rest on. Just have to remove the passenger seat.
 

212sparky

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The center of gravity is to far back for the doors, transmission yes, transfer case no. a 4x4 front to back is the easiest way to go. That is how I did the last one.
 

austinaubinoe

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Location
Potomac, Md
Thanks. If I dont need to pull the top Thats what ill do. It even all ready has a passenger suspension seat in place of the stock crap bench, maybe I wont even need to remove it!

Im still considering a portable gantry crane. Do you have any idea how big it would need to be to go over the bed of a deuce with stock 39"? NDT's?
 

clinto

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Thanks. If I dont need to pull the top Thats what ill do. It even all ready has a passenger suspension seat in place of the stock crap bench, maybe I wont even need to remove it!

Im still considering a portable gantry crane. Do you have any idea how big it would need to be to go over the bed of a deuce with stock 39"? NDT's?
If you have a cargo cover, it would need to be close to 11' high.

The cheesy Harbor Freight gantry crane is wide enough to go across the cab, but it won't go across the bed. If you're going to buy a gantry, it needs to be wide enough to drive under. Also needs to be tall. Mine is not quite as tall as it needs to be but it gets the job done.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?87435-That-was-a-lot-of-work&highlight=
 

austinaubinoe

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Potomac, Md
hey steve I actually did find that picture! But it did not give me the height of the bed. More googleing and I figure I need a gantry crane AT LEAST 8.5 feet wide and 6.5 feet high. I emailed Wallace cranes to see how much one would run. Im hoping it will also serve as a good engine puller.

And FMJ that is a sweet setup! but either way I am going to need a crane, so I am trying to find one that will do it all for years to come. Kinda pissed I bought a HF scissor trans jack to do the clutch in my wrangler. It was a PITA to use, but was only $50. That is a much nicer jack. Any details on the placement of that angle iron?

Thanks again for the good info guys im actually getting excited to tackle this project!!
 

SteveKuhn

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"...I actually did find that picture! But it did not give me the height of the bed..."

Well, the top of the steering wheel shows 81" and the width shows 88". If it clears those properly (and I'd want more) . . .

Steve
 

clinto

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clinto, what brand is that gantry?
It's a Wallace S4T10-S10. It can be seen here: http://www.wallacecranes.com/triste1.htm

Backstory on how we got it here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52573-Did-you-win-a-gantry-crane-at-WR-AFB

Wallace is an extremely good unit and you'll use it for the rest of your life without issues (unless you do something really stupid with it) but they aren't cheap at all. A new one is ridiculously expensive. I would look on eBay/Craigslist/etc. for a used one.

As long as the I-beam, legs and tubes are good, the small replacement parts are reasonably priced and all available. I had to buy about $40 worth of pins, clips, springs, etc., for mine.

But has a "whistler" LTD-465 by White Motor Co.
Converted A1?


If it's a '53 with a 465, it's probably been rebuilt all the way to an A2. Dataplates usually but do not always get changed when trucks are upgraded.
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
Hey guys so Im on summer break and I have a whole mess of projects going on. I finally got a way to get the rebuilt case out of the bed! I bought an OTC tools metric ton engine crane. It hoist up to 2 feet in the air. Got it off craigslist for a good deal. MSRP of about 4k!!! Sometimes you do get lucky on craigslist you just got to be persistant.

Also got a harbor freight engine stand from the same guy that had never been used for about half price.



Working on getting the stub shaft bolted back up so I can force it into gear and get it backed into the shop. There are a couple things im trying to figure out:

1) The rebuilt transfer case has brand new pads on the parking brake drum, however the drum has a pretty big dent in the bottom. The guy I bought it from mentioned I would have to swap it off my original case. Any idea how this is done?

2) I bought it close to 2 years ago with 2 dead military batteries. Is there any way to rejuvenate these? they have like six caps and appear to be filled with water.

Thanks,

Austin
 

SteveKuhn

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For the brake drum, have you checked TM 9-2520-246-34-1 around 2-25x to see if that will help?

As for batteries, all I could think of is to put each one on a very slow trickle charge to see what happens and check specific gravity for dead cells.

Steve
 
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