Swolf's M35A2 Project

[shadowrwolf]

its about time i start a thread for what im doing to my deuce

pulled the radiator off and will be taking it to a shop this week, the core is good as far as i can tell. the only problem is the bottom framing.

found oil in my far air tank, looking at my air compressor there is oil around what i assume is the air intake so that could be the cause of the problem.

Oil gauge is done fore the coil had completely disintegrated.

one question i have is it ok to leave the cooling system empty while the radiators in the shop, there was not much gunk in the system when i drained it, thow there are rust deposits on the sides of all the pipes.

and the part number or name of the rubber that fills the gaps on the sides of the radiator.

 

[wsucougarx]

I would completely flush the coolant system. Probably a good idea to reverse flush it as well. While you're in there, replace the coolant hoses and belts.

 

[JCKnife]

and the part number or name of the rubber that fills the gaps on the sides of the radiator.

Ted's Trucks has these in stock there's a thread about it...they are on ebay as well (from Ted's Trucks)

 

[cattlerepairman]

The shop is hopefully hot tanking your rad so that any other thin parts and pin holes blow wide open and can be repaired as well. Nothing worse than getting one rad leak soldered and another one popping open right beside it the day after.

Leaving the system open for a few days is not a big issue. You may want to use the time and flush everything really well.

 

[shadowrwolf]

ok sounds good i will revers flush the system today

so you guys recommend not tanking it?
just get the bracket fixed.
this shop im taking it to is a old car restoration place so they have experience with old cores.

 

[shadowrwolf]

got the radiator to the shop yesterday and looks to be less than 100 to fabercate the new frame.

picked up some banded hose for my radiator and other parts
upper hose is 2"
other ones are 1 5/8"
lower is decent but old so new one on order will keep the old one as back up
also grabbed some gasket material will probably cut new gaskets for everything i have to pull unless they look brand new.

belts look new so wont change them right now will toss a complete set in to my parts box.

finally got around to cleaning the engine and it is not original, it is a 88 and the transition has a rebuild tag from 88 as well.

attacked the rust spots on the bottoms of the doors, drivers side is very rotten, passenger is not bad a few small holes that can be filled by welding. i might have free doors up the road from me so not a big issue.

 

[gungearz]

Looks and sounds like you are on the right track...

 

[shadowrwolf]

well the gaskets are a pane in the a...
taking a long time to clean up with a razor blade.

found that the parking brake stabilizing spring is broken so thats on order now.

looks like the wheel cylinders might have issues there is some oil on the inside of the tires

looks like my radiator will be done Monday but on closer inspection of my belts there is rot starting so will be changing them out.

 

[shadowrwolf]

got my reduction gear wrench and broke the tires lose
now i have a big enough socket to losen the bearing nuts.
hopefully i can see whats going on in the brake drum if i get that far.

picked up a gallon of high temp grease so i can pull clean and re pack the bearings.
do you also use hi temp in all the zerk fittings or do you change to normal axle grease?

also picked up 5 gallons of fleet coolant with SCAs pre loaded
toying with the idea of adding a coolant filter in the near future

also had to add a second rubber spacer to the radiator base on the drivers side to balance it out

i have also been taking a close look at how the cowling under the window hooks in to the rest of the cab, and as far as i can tell it is held on by the 2 welds on each corner, then under the wind shield it just bumps up agenst a different piece of metal with only some of that old fat gasket material to keep the water out still have not decided how i want to attack the rust there have a few ideas, have some parts trucks up the road that i could get the matching piece off of
-cut out the old one and weld the new one in
-cut out the rust and weld in some new sheat metal from inside the cab and fill the old cut out
-or a cab swap but do not want to do that

think that is about it for now will add pictures of the repaired radiator in a day or 2

 

[shadowrwolf]

so here is the radiator re installed replaced every hose except the one on the thermostat housing if and when that one starts to fail i have some 2 inch hose standing by and a new thermostat and gasket.

they did not do the best fix job to it just welded and soldered up the old metal and added a little more to it, i dont trust there paint job and added some water displacement spray to it and will be watching it closely for rust.

flushed the system with distilled water and drove around the area for abouta half hour to get the temp up, seems to run well on water so drained that off that and the gunk that was broken lose.

i did not do any solvents or vinegar because i do not have any issues with over heating, and that was tested here in tx 110 degree day with possibly half coolant levels and a bad upper hose and it did not go over 190 degrees pushing hard.

filled it up with 4 gallons of fleet SCA pre loaded coolant and distilled water, i have test strips and more SCA mix on hand for future use.

i now have inner seals x2 outer seals x2 and boots x2 on order so i can start fixing the front end because it started leaking bad when i got done with my little test drive for the coolant today i will be following the TM and the amazing stepxstep thread.

looks like i will probably pick up 5 gallons of oil for all 3 axles so i can do them all now and not worry, the rears seem tight still, no leaks.

the brakes today feel very very weak, and the master cylinder is low so not positive on whare the problem is could just be that its low but dont know how it got that way, i haven't filled it since i got it but it looks lower than i rember.

 

[gimpyrobb]

the master cylinder is low so not positive on whare the problem is could just be that its low but dont know how it got that way, i haven't filled it since i got it but it looks lower than i rember.

Adjust the brakes and the peddle will come back up.

 

[shadowrwolf]

the master cylinder is low so not positive on whare the problem is could just be that its low but dont know how it got that way, i haven't filled it since i got it but it looks lower than i rember.

Adjust the brakes and the peddle will come back up.

on the to do list, spotted that in the TM just the other night, i want to get my hubs off first and see how much pad i have left and if the cylinders are leaking or broken springs

 

[shadowrwolf]

hit a wall today on the oil sceal replacment, got the passenger side all taken down and cleand lots of water and oil in the boot, the inner bearring was not greased at all and the nuckles had maby a spoon full of grease on them and coverd in gear oil, the inner bearring is stuck or siezed can not get it off at all hammer, screw drivers down behinde it. heating it right now.

so i am going to do a rush order for bearrings inner and outers for the frount was hopeing to be up and running this weekend but looks like its not going to happen have not evne cracked open the drivers side, i assume its just as bad or worse.

old inner oil seal is out and new one is in, found a trick to get it in with out hurting it i hammerd it agenst a wooden table and it dident deform the mettal.