Ok, I rotated my pump, but that wasn't enough to fix it. It might have fixed it if the cable of mine was brand new, but I cannot be sure.
I replaced the rubber washer in the end of the tach cable with a washer from a rubber hose.
Yup, a regular old washer from a garden hose. You have to MAKE it go into the setup, but it works good. And their CHEAP!
STILL didn't work.
So I started looking very close, and it would seem that the tach cable drive, which is a round piece of metal that was clamped on one side to create the flat 'drive' area, was worn down.
The flat part wasn't the part that was worn down though, it was the backside of it. And because it is round, it was harder to notice that it was worn down.
My quick answer?
I took a pair of vice grips and started squashing the main shank of the drive. It was worn on the back, but the sides were relatively ok. So squashing them moved enough material to the back side to force the flat area to engage the slot from the IP.
I also smashed out the flat drive area a little more, but not too much.
The tach WORKS!
I let it idle, I drove it around, and I put over an hour on the meter, and it's still working perfectly!
So, if your tach stops working, but the cable still feels good, this might be a way to help gain a few thousand more miles.
If your NEW tach cable doesn't work, this still might be the answer. But I think that clocking the IP is all that would be needed.
And the cheap washer idea is a nice bonus.