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Tank salvage yard in Iraq.
- Thread starter Lonesome715
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kcimb
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MTLBs.
Pretty much larger versions of our M113s..the Russians love, MTLBs. they use them as troop transporters, arty tractors, gun mounts...
Pretty much larger versions of our M113s..the Russians love, MTLBs. they use them as troop transporters, arty tractors, gun mounts...
EZFEED
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Lonesome715....dude.....I need you to pull some parts for me! 
Sure wish you could....I just bet there are some PV3S's in there and I could sure use some extra Tatra 912-2 parts like spare oil filters, fuel canister, injection pump, etc...
Sure wish you could....I just bet there are some PV3S's in there and I could sure use some extra Tatra 912-2 parts like spare oil filters, fuel canister, injection pump, etc...
kcimb
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Lonesome... import a BMP1 or a BRDM back here to the states for me will ya 
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Ah, the lovely trees and grass of the north.
You could re-name this thread, "Tank slavage yard is Iraq."
You could re-name this thread, "Tank slavage yard is Iraq."
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I'm sure -715 could pull some Soviet vehicle parts for you, EZFEED. They are junk vehicles, and the mail service from Iraq to USA works, right? It's not like importing a whole AFV, just a few parts will survive to help out a vehicle on this end.
Save some parts, Lonesome715 !
Save some parts, Lonesome715 !
Engine5
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I want a mig I want a mig
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Taji is the National Maintenance and training center for Iraq it is a huge base been there too.
EZFEED
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Yeah thats what I'm saying!!!!maddawg308 said:I'm sure -715 could pull some Soviet vehicle parts for you, EZFEED. They are junk vehicles, and the mail service from Iraq to USA works, right? It's not like importing a whole AFV, just a few parts will survive to help out a vehicle on this end.
Save some parts, Lonesome715 !
The parts I want are just for standby in case mine go KAPUT and if they're not using them.......what could it hurt?????
Vehicle parts are not restricted nor are they applicable to U.S. Munitions lists rules so if ya' could Lonesome715......then pretty please!
jeli
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The tires of that Ural would look cool on a deuce!!!!!
Lonesome715
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There are others on base scattered about. When I get a btter camera and I will go around get some more photographs.
EZFEED
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Haven't seen one of these have you?????
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Lonesome715
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No I have not ever seen one of those. Pretty cool looking.
I will ask some questions at the next mayer cell meeting and see what I can come with. If you have know the qeustions I should ask let me know.
I also would love to have a set of tires like that. I have never seen any like them before.
I will ask some questions at the next mayer cell meeting and see what I can come with. If you have know the qeustions I should ask let me know.
I also would love to have a set of tires like that. I have never seen any like them before.
EZFEED
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Well you would probably not want a set like those....those are worn out!
That is a Praga PV3S, a very over engineered Czech manufactured truck. My truck, PLDvK 53/59 Jesterka is built on top of this chassis and running gear but still uses every mechanical system.
See my topic about it here.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=26321&postdays=0&postorder=asc
Here is a parts book.
http://www.pedros.cz/Misc/V3S/V3S_katalog_nd.pdf
I am looking for a spare labyrinth for my oil filter as well as an injection pump. Each of these units is retained by only 4 10mm bolts. (See pg 23 and 27)
Also a fuel pump (see pg 30), very small unit and only held on by two 10mm bolts and two screws.
That is a Praga PV3S, a very over engineered Czech manufactured truck. My truck, PLDvK 53/59 Jesterka is built on top of this chassis and running gear but still uses every mechanical system.
See my topic about it here.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=26321&postdays=0&postorder=asc
Here is a parts book.
http://www.pedros.cz/Misc/V3S/V3S_katalog_nd.pdf
I am looking for a spare labyrinth for my oil filter as well as an injection pump. Each of these units is retained by only 4 10mm bolts. (See pg 23 and 27)
Also a fuel pump (see pg 30), very small unit and only held on by two 10mm bolts and two screws.
Lonesome715
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Um, wow. That is a hell of a vehicle to have. My wife sent me a good camera. Once it arrives I will go back out there and see if I can loacte what you are looking for. I will not try and remove it until I know for sure it is what you need. The only problem I might run into is not having any hand tools. But I know some one that might be able to hook me up on that.
EZFEED
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That'd be awfully cool if ya could! Dont trouble yourself though, I just hate seeing stuff like that get scrapped, especially when there are vehicles that need spares so badly!
The trucks pretty easy to maintain, you could do a complete rebuild with 4 wrenches, a small hammer, and a butter knife. The IP requires the use of a small ratchet like 1/4 drive with an extension and 10mm socket and the fuel pump the same along with a medium flat blade screwdriver. Theres a little shaft that runs from the compressor to the IP and theres one bolt that acts as a set screw to retain the woodruff key on the other side of the dampener (coupling thing on the compressor shaft). On the regular PV3S all you have to do to get to the motor if you cant reach from the front is climb in the cab and unlatch the cowling that covers the back of the engine. Pick it up off the engine and chunk it out the opposite door, you are now looking at 2/3rds of the exposed engine. There are 4 latches on the floor and it just pops off then you are looking at the rest of the engine and the IP and pump are right there.
If I were there I'd just cut all the hoses and such and not worry with unscrewing any of the lines. I SO WISH I WERE THERE !!!!!
Dont trouble yourself though, I just hate seeing stuff like that get scrapped, especially when there are vehicles that need spares so badly!The trucks pretty easy to maintain, you could do a complete rebuild with 4 wrenches, a small hammer, and a butter knife. The IP requires the use of a small ratchet like 1/4 drive with an extension and 10mm socket and the fuel pump the same along with a medium flat blade screwdriver. Theres a little shaft that runs from the compressor to the IP and theres one bolt that acts as a set screw to retain the woodruff key on the other side of the dampener (coupling thing on the compressor shaft). On the regular PV3S all you have to do to get to the motor if you cant reach from the front is climb in the cab and unlatch the cowling that covers the back of the engine. Pick it up off the engine and chunk it out the opposite door, you are now looking at 2/3rds of the exposed engine. There are 4 latches on the floor and it just pops off then you are looking at the rest of the engine and the IP and pump are right there.
If I were there I'd just cut all the hoses and such and not worry with unscrewing any of the lines. I SO WISH I WERE THERE
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roger-wilco-66
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Wow, that Praga looks interesting. I see a six-cylinder motor, is it aircooled through that cylindrical fan-shroud or is that thing a radiator?
Lonesome715
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I am not sure if you really want to be here. I'll go dig out there soon. Make sure those are the only tools I will need becuase if I can get them that is all I am taking.
EZFEED
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I wanted to make sure you had everyting possible so guess what....I pulled the whole IP off again today! Really I had to anyway so I could repaint it so this killed two birds with one stone.
Here are some pics. There are only 4 13mm bolts that hold the IP to its cradle casting. Once all 6 injection lines are cut, the 2 fuel in and fuel out lines are cut, the governor rod and spring removed, and injection starting cable cut....the IP just lifts right out.
The unit is also independantly lubed from the engine. The IP and governor have their own oil reservoirs and it may be a good idea to drain these.
Here are some pics. There are only 4 13mm bolts that hold the IP to its cradle casting. Once all 6 injection lines are cut, the 2 fuel in and fuel out lines are cut, the governor rod and spring removed, and injection starting cable cut....the IP just lifts right out.
The unit is also independantly lubed from the engine. The IP and governor have their own oil reservoirs and it may be a good idea to drain these.
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EZFEED
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Here is a pic of the piping that comes out of the IP.
There are 6 injection lines that are only like 1/4" in diameter. If you can get a big set of pliers with wire cutters built in the it would be best to just cut the suckers a inch or so up and bend them down. That is a whole lot faster that unscrewing anything and will keep the mating surfaces clean and protected.
That little lever sticking out front is the cold weather starting device. There is a little cable that attaches to the end. It's like a bicycle brake cable and can be cut with the wire cutters on the pliers.
Those two big fuel lines are the fuel in and out lines. They are steel lines about 1/2" in diameter and are retained by Banjo bolts. It is best to just cut these as well so as to speed up removal and protect the sealing surfaces.
All the tools really required for this operation are:
1 ratchet with short extension and 13mm deep socket
1 pair of big pliers, the kind with the big wire cutters built in.
Thats pretty much it.
The wrenches I have shown in the above pics are a double open end with 17mm and 19mm. The Banjo bolts are 19mm but it is better to just cut the lines and bend them because the sealing areas may be damaged. Still it might possible tool to maybe carry along if available? Still I would not recommend doing anything more than cutting and bending it.
The oil drain plugs for the governor and IP are both 14mm but you could use the pliers to crack them open if desired. They are also slotted for a screwdriver too. Draining it would keep it from being messy and make it lighter but it is not necessary, the oil should not leak out.
There are 6 injection lines that are only like 1/4" in diameter. If you can get a big set of pliers with wire cutters built in the it would be best to just cut the suckers a inch or so up and bend them down. That is a whole lot faster that unscrewing anything and will keep the mating surfaces clean and protected.
That little lever sticking out front is the cold weather starting device. There is a little cable that attaches to the end. It's like a bicycle brake cable and can be cut with the wire cutters on the pliers.
Those two big fuel lines are the fuel in and out lines. They are steel lines about 1/2" in diameter and are retained by Banjo bolts. It is best to just cut these as well so as to speed up removal and protect the sealing surfaces.
All the tools really required for this operation are:
1 ratchet with short extension and 13mm deep socket
1 pair of big pliers, the kind with the big wire cutters built in.
Thats pretty much it.
The wrenches I have shown in the above pics are a double open end with 17mm and 19mm. The Banjo bolts are 19mm but it is better to just cut the lines and bend them because the sealing areas may be damaged. Still it might possible tool to maybe carry along if available? Still I would not recommend doing anything more than cutting and bending it.
The oil drain plugs for the governor and IP are both 14mm but you could use the pliers to crack them open if desired. They are also slotted for a screwdriver too. Draining it would keep it from being messy and make it lighter but it is not necessary, the oil should not leak out.
