CRAP! Haven't done any work on it as far as restoration stuff goes but the other day I worked it pretty hard pulling trees and stuff and the next morning I walked into the shop and noticed about a 10" puddle under it. My stuff doesn't leak, not a one of my machines. Well upon further inspection I discovered that the governor on the back of the IP was leaking...crap
Well it wasnt much and the drip might have been one teaspoon per hour but given the fact that the governor only holds maybe a third a quart any kind of leak is bad news.
Began yanking it off and when I cracked the banjo fittings for the fuel lines I noticed the diesel looked really milky. Being the lowest part of the system after the fuel filter canister I would guess this is a bad thing and it was a good thing that I got to it now. I think i am going to add a clear disposable filter like the one Chris spliced on his 925A2 lines. Should be able to monitor fuel quality easily with that.
I drained the oil in the governor and drained the IP oil (they have separate capacities) and proceeded to remove the back cover of the governor housing.....stuck
Come to find out the accelerator shaft needs to be removed and in order to do so I would have to chance disturbing the factory settings. I removed the gasket by cutting it and used it for a pattern for the new one that I cut out of modern fiber gasket material. The old paper gasket was crispy and crystalized, had to be really careful removing it but it came off. It was far time for this to be replaced...been on since 1976 I'm sure.
Cut the new one ou and saturated it with blue RTV then fanagled it over the cover and into place. Fit real nice so I snugged it down hand tight then tightened all 8 bolts in sequence.
The IP is driven by the air compressors output shaft. The shaft is a little gear crankshaft that drives two pistons, the tail is extended out and has a fixture with a break away coupling in case something in the IP locks up. I took the time to realign the engine to 14 degrees before TDC, this rotates this coupling to a certain spot and then you slide the IP back onto its casting to engage this coupling. There are alignment marks on the matching coupling on the IP and once in place you can tilt the IP either way in order to align the marks on the IP front case and the coupling on the IP then tighten down in place.
Anyway...done deal, thats over...good for another 35 years or more. Both parts use the same oil (engine oil) and I think I may use some f the Royal Purple stuff here? Anyone have any reccomendations or suggestions as to wether thats a good thing or not????