Test run

[ldmack3]

Test run

Got Burt out today for more than just 2 miles to town and back. Did about a 25 mile run after tour around town and stop at auto parts.

In order of importance have the following

Steering is scary above about 45 MPH. I mean a constant battle to keep it in the lane on a 2 lane road with mountain on one side river on the other. Constantly wandered back and forth. Not doing that again until I find something. Short low speed trips only. Also the steering box limiting the RH turn needs something done.

2nd gear really difficult. Best method I found is put TC in neutral, go to 3rd then to second. Goes in after several tries. Letting clutch out in neutral will help, sometimes. Just changed lube to 85/90 gear oil. Don't what was in it before. I'll probably do a few more trips and swap to 30 or 40 if it doesn't improve. Lack of experience also. Towards the end the TC also got difficult to shift.

Temperature just barely got above 140 at the end of the drive; OAT 40F. Replaced T-Stat last year and was careful to get it orientated correctly. Turned of cab heater water off on the way back in case it was plumbed incorrectly, no diff. After good warm up in the driveway I expected 160F min looking for 180F. EGT about 350. Interested to see how the tranny shifts if I can get the temp up.

Other minor items. Overall, except for the steering I could live with the rest. Tranny is a pain in town but part of that is my inexperience I'm sure. Oil press 60 on the road, 25-30 at idle after trip.

So, onward through the fog.

 

[DaneGer21]

Test run

Got Burt out today for more than just 2 miles to town and back. Did about a 25 mile run after tour around town and stop at auto parts.

In order of importance have the following

Steering is scary above about 45 MPH. I mean a constant battle to keep it in the lane on a 2 lane road with mountain on one side river on the other. Constantly wandered back and forth. Not doing that again until I find something. Short low speed trips only. Also the steering box limiting the RH turn needs something done.

2nd gear really difficult. Best method I found is put TC in neutral, go to 3rd then to second. Goes in after several tries. Letting clutch out in neutral will help, sometimes. Just changed lube to 85/90 gear oil. Don't what was in it before. I'll probably do a few more trips and swap to 30 or 40 if it doesn't improve. Lack of experience also. Towards the end the TC also got difficult to shift.

Temperature just barely got above 140 at the end of the drive; OAT 40F. Replaced T-Stat last year and was careful to get it orientated correctly. Turned of cab heater water off on the way back in case it was plumbed incorrectly, no diff. After good warm up in the driveway I expected 160F min looking for 180F. EGT about 350. Interested to see how the tranny shifts if I can get the temp up.

Other minor items. Overall, except for the steering I could live with the rest. Tranny is a pain in town but part of that is my inexperience I'm sure. Oil press 60 on the road, 25-30 at idle after trip.

So, onward through the fog.
View attachment 860562

Sounds like maybe your 2-3 shift synchro may be worn or wearing out causing hard shifts. Although the 2-3 synchro is serviceable without dropping the trans, it is located at the “end” of the main shaft when tearing down in a press. Ive had my main shaft out to make a repair, it wasn’t to bad.

As for steering, FIRST check tire pressures on EVERY tire. Once confirmed where they should be, grease all zerks in the front end.

If still issues, trying jacking up the front and check for slop, in the steering and by trying to wobble the tires. Also while in the air check for binding.

As for engine temps, my truck once “warm” has NEVER gone above 160, although this is during winter time. I havent owned it yet during our summer months. Ambient temps may change this.

Maybe others will chime in soon with other ideas.

 

[ldmack3]

I just reset my tire pressures.
Greased the front end about 20 miles ago when I did all bushings, seals, bearings, races, etc. in the front end. My power steering unit doesn't have an adjustment on the down end that I can find but it seemed like it would respond when turning the wheel just would not stay straight.

If the T-Stat is 180 then it would never open. Maybe it doesn't unless in the desert. We get 100F+ but I was down for maintenance when we did so upcoming summer will be a good test. Just seems too cold. My first deuce so everything is a learning curve for me.

Thats good news on the tranny. I am planning on pulling the top off AGAIN anyway when the weather improves. Found a big tooth chunk in the fluid. Question. Does the entire tunnel, all three, need to be removed to get that shaft out?

Thanks for the info.

 

[DaneGer21]

I only removed my center floor that the shifter comes up through. If you can get to your top cover of the trans that’s all you need. Then remove the small jackshaft between the trans and the TC. You’ll need an impact and I think a 1.5” socket to remove the yoke. Remove the rear seal plate, and the rear bearing and pretty much the main shaft will lift up and out. (I’m sure I’m forgetting something, but it’s really not a bad job)

 

[DaneGer21]

Maybe check for loose ubolts on the axle. Broken or loose suspension components(leafs, hangers, etc).

I also went back and seen you mention hydraulic steering.(unless I’m confusing you with someone else). Maybe you have some leaky valving going on and pressure is bleeding by causing the steering to “drift”. (Internally worn or leaky orings, worn valving, etc)

If this is the case, try jacking up the front end. And see if the wheel drifts without touching it. Then check to see if it continues to drift after turning. Meaning, turn half way to the left, let go of the wheel and see what it does. Check right turn as well. Remember do this in the air so there is no “load” on the steering components.

Im curious as to the outcome of this…

 

[ldmack3]

I'll try that. But now that you mention it. When it is on the ground and I turn the wheel all the way either direction and let go, it turns back some. If I am holding it against the lock and shut down, it has a LOT of force trying to turn back part way. Not sure if this means anything.

When the weather improves, I'm going to over everything I did previously and visually insp everything. I did have one of the lines disconnected and lost some fluid but think I got all the air out as I've driven it and cycled the steering lock to lock many times..

 

[cattlerepairman]

With radials and power steering, toe in should be close to zero. You might want to check that. I use the "pvc pipes slide into each other" method on the front and rear of the front tires.

 

[cattlerepairman]

You are making me jealous; my truck is still in winter hibernation.....can't wait to get her back. Mid April......

 

[ldmack3]

I feel your pain. Bought mine 9/2020 and until this week only put 10 miles on it. Ran it a lot but was down for maintenance, mostly rust repair and front end. So glad to get it drivable I hate the thought of tearing into the tranny and steering.

 

[ldmack3]

What tonnage press do I need for the tranny?
Also be doing the steering ball stud but probably less that the tranny.

 

[DaneGer21]

What tonnage press do I need for the tranny?
Also be doing the steering ball stud but probably less that the tranny.

My buddy has a 20ton at his shop. Everything came off my mainshaft pretty easily, except one piece, I forget which one off the top of my head. It took some heat and about 16 of those 20 tons! We were standing to the side haha It should have moved just as easy as the others but for some reason it was froze up!

With my new mainshaft and some new parts, it all pressed back together pretty easily.

 

[ldmack3]

My buddy has a 20ton at his shop. Everything came off my mainshaft pretty easily, except one piece, I forget which one off the top of my head. It took some heat and about 16 of those 20 tons! We were standing to the side haha It should have moved just as easy as the others but for some reason it was froze up!

With my new mainshaft and some new parts, it all pressed back together pretty easily.

Holy crud! I was thinking 3 to 5 tons. Maybe I'll get a 1 ton for my steering and take the shaft to the shop when it's out.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I have a cheapo 8ton press and it managed. Some came off with a good bang, though!

 

[DaneGer21]

Holy crud! I was thinking 3 to 5 tons. Maybe I'll get a 1 ton for my steering and take the shaft to the shop when it's out.

Id have to check the TM to jog my memory, but yeah one of my parts was heat treated and almost welded on. I could see color changes in the metal where things got hot. It was a mess haha But, over all it was easy, and if we didn’t fight the extra hour on that part removal, it would have been smooth.

 

[ldmack3]

Yea I could have used a press so many times in the past year. So I've got the steering ball to R&R and the tranny to work and I'm torn between buying a 10T or just running to the shop.
Question is; "How many more times will use this?" Wish I had one in the beginning. $500 or less or $50 for now but inconvenient. I do love tools!

 

[M37M35]

Yea I could have used a press so many times in the past year. So I've got the steering ball to R&R and the tranny to work and I'm torn between buying a 10T or just running to the shop.
Question is; "How many more times will use this?" Wish I had one in the beginning. $500 or less or $50 for now but inconvenient. I do love tools!

Harbor Freight has a 12 ton press $170 or 20 ton for $250. I have the 20 ton and it's served me well.

 

[ldmack3]

Thanks. I'm still on the fence. Will probably wait until I actually start the tranny repair. Fighting the steering at the moment.

 

[ldmack3]

Pulled my pitman and drag link. Noticed wear on front and back of steering arm ball stud so ordered one. May not fix my problem but hopeing for some improvement. Too large. I checked the PN of my arm and new stud. Correct numbers but shop could only get it 1/2 way in with 12 tons.
Are these supposed to be machined to fit? Don't see any other way. Eastern looks like they an arm with stud for $110 incl freight. May go that route.

 

[ldmack3]

I did the pvc pipe toe in check and came up with 1/4" toe in. Went to a shop the other day for trailer tire repair and had them measure it out. They came up with 3/16" in. I read somewhere on SS the 1/4 to 3/8" was good, any more would scuff the tires badly. Shop looked at the tie rod and said 1 turn would put it over the 3/8" so we did nothing.

For future reference about how much change per thread/revolution would I see?