So the other day, my 84 M1008, with 40,000 miles on it started losing power. It progressed until the accelerator pedal had to be pushed to the floor for it to even move. It also had a low, rough idle. Then it wouldnt even crank. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the glass ball check valve thing at the front of the injector pump (that was clogged with trash). No dice. Does this mean the IP is toast? What's my next move?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
That's what I'm afraid of.
- Thread starter bpcole
- Start date
kipman
Active member
- 2,514
- 15
- 38
- Location
- Lancaster Ohio
Sounds like it, they are not that hard to replace, when you do it will seem like a new truck.
hatzie
New member
- 19
- -89
- 3
- Location
- Wentworth, NH
Sounds like you blew out the flex ring. If you have small black pebbles in the governor housing you need to replace the flex ring with an updated EID.
kipman
Active member
- 2,514
- 15
- 38
- Location
- Lancaster Ohio
Did not think about that, good point.
I would have your original IP rebuilt. I used Accurate Diesel. I forget the price he charged, but recall it was very fair. http://www.accuratediesel.com/
DriverSideImpact1008
Member
- 479
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Madison, WI
Just get your current one rebuilt. From what I've heard, it wont be real cheap, but it wont be outrageous.
Just replacing the flex ring would be like putting a bandaid on it, after 30 years that's not the only thing that will need replacing. Not only that, I wouldn't recommend trying to rebuild/fix the IP yourself. Its a precisely built component, and there is lots of stuff to muck up. Let the pros do it.
Just replacing the flex ring would be like putting a bandaid on it, after 30 years that's not the only thing that will need replacing. Not only that, I wouldn't recommend trying to rebuild/fix the IP yourself. Its a precisely built component, and there is lots of stuff to muck up. Let the pros do it.
hatzie
New member
- 19
- -89
- 3
- Location
- Wentworth, NH
I agree on letting the pros handle it. It helps to know what the devil is probably wrong so the shop can't feed you a BS line.
With only 40k on the clock you are only dealing with the soft parts that age chewed up. It may not need much more than a good cleaning, flex ring, seals and recalibration.
You need real operating hours to chew up hard parts. 40k doesn't qualify as real operating hours.
With only 40k on the clock you are only dealing with the soft parts that age chewed up. It may not need much more than a good cleaning, flex ring, seals and recalibration.
You need real operating hours to chew up hard parts. 40k doesn't qualify as real operating hours.
My diagnosis for IP rebuild was simple, I had fuel pouring out the throttle shaft for months. Your symptoms are a little different. You said it will not crank, will the engine turn over by hand? I use a socket on the Harmonic Balancer for this. Are the batteries and starting system in good shape?
SgtSnorkel
New member
- 11
- 0
- 1
- Location
- Long Island NY
Check the lift pump out put
Check fuel pressure into IP if you have a gauge. 7psi is in the ballpark. Or if you have no gauge disconnect the fuel line at filter and turn engine over, collect the fuel in a bottle while turning engine. There is an engine rotation vs pumped fuel volume that I can't recall at this time.
Last edited:
DriverSideImpact1008
Member
- 479
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Madison, WI
There is something in the TM's about how much fuel should come out after a certain amount of time.
Also, check the voltage of the wires going to the IP.
DriverSideImpact1008
Member
- 479
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Madison, WI
Yes to the first part. No to the second part. The lift pump is on the passenger side of the engine. Low down, towards the front.