The -803 is finally home

[76shovel]

Update...cam cover, gasket installed
Water pump...installed
Radiator...cleaned, rebuilt and installed
Crank case sump door gasket...sump wiped clean and new gasket installed
Engine bay...cleaned and painted
All my new filters installed.

Now for the negitive side of things. Still waiting on my bulkhead fittings from tank depot. Apparently sitting around for 6 days is a common practice before shipping out and still havnt recieved today as they said it should be here. Finially got my mov yesterday and installed today. I had to order from a different supplier and still waiting on them now as the other guy finially sent me the first order. So now I have an extra 69 of them. if anyone needs one let me know and i will send one to you. Lastly the pulsetech i bought and melted the next day. The seller said he wpuld take care of it and refund me is giving me grief about it now so it looks like im out my 175.00 on that deal...not real happy about that...havnt had time to sorce the nuts for the split lugs and didn't know if anyone had any they would want to sell. I found the stud with them but to replace all 4 would be kinda salty and would like to find a cheaper alternative. All in all the project is moving along just being dependant on others to ship things in a timely manner seems to be the only hold up. I greatly appreciate all the help everyone has given me so far and I'm sure there will be more help needed as i havnt even heard this thing run yet to even see if it makes power. As for now though at least it looks nice and clean on the inside and does crank...lol

Forgot to mention my reservoir jug jas a crack in it...any place to source one for cheap or has anyone had any luck patchimg one...not wanting to patch it but maybe for a temp fix...unless someone has one to sell

 

[Guyfang]

Ha ha ha...thanks I appreicate that. Im doing a fine job myself on this thing. Something i noticed is i need the fasteners/nuts for the output lugs...mine arnt there. Is there a place i can source themView attachment 772180

As far as I know, you can NOT buy the nuts separately.

 

[Guyfang]

Home depot


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not even.

 

[Guyfang]

The good news is that the load terminals fit several different gen sets. Look up the number and post it here. I will then look at a few TM's and see if we cant give you more avenues to search.

 

[76shovel]

Guy...that isnt really the news i was hoping to hear...lol...hoping a few members might have one or a few to sell from a parts gen they might have...just hoping...lol

 

[Guyfang]

Thats why we need to find out what other different sets have the same terminal. Then you have more places/people to ask.

 

[76shovel]

Ya...will give that a shot...never thought aboit doing that...got a pic for you Guy...pertaining to my manuals.



Its not all of them but i have a start. Its good having a PDF of them but i like a paper copy at hand. They are all in plastic sheet protectors they way if i have dirty hands i can just wipe the page off

 

[Zed254]

This is what I got: https://www.parttarget.com/5940-00-...earchoption=sku&originalsearchtext=s-38615-g5

Part number is S-38615-G5

16 PAOZZ PAOZZ PAOZZ 74159 S-38615-G5 .TERMINAL,STUD 5 5

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
You do not need to buy the whole terminal.

Go back and read my post #20

Just get the Copper Split Bolt Connector and steal the crush and nut

You would have to check to see it the threading would be the same
Purchase say 1 unit of a

​

https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/G...per-Split-Bolt

Or other manufacturer's similar unit.
​

https://penn-union.com/products/sku/s-2

#2 AWG Split Bolt - copper alloy
Take the nut, and center crush and use it on your studs

​

https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Union-Co.../dp/B00J5LL82Y

 

[76shovel]

IT RUNS...got the bulk head fittings in place this morning (which was a challenge cause i stabbed myself with my razor knife at work last night and had to go get stitches in my hand) anyhow...with those in and all the fuel lines in place and tight. Filled the radiator, which sucks cause of the neck design, but I'm sure there is a better way to fill just dont know it. Turned the power on to prime the fuel supply and watched for leaks. None were visible so i turned it one click to the right to let it crank. After turning over a few times it lit off and waited for the oil pressure to come up and went to 50psi. Let it run for a few seconds and shut it down and checked everything out and all was good. So i restarted it let it run for about 5 minutes and put a small load on the convience receptacle and after a few minutes noticed the oil pressure drop as ot kept getting warmer. The temp held at 175 per my inferred thermometer and is about what the gauge was showing. But the pressure kept going down to about 23psi after about 45min of run time. So from other post i kmow they do drop especially with a good work out and the oil heated up. The oil filter temp was about 179-182 which i figured should be about the same as the coolant. Which leads me to my next thought. The quality of oil i have in it. Right now it is tractor supply special and only intended for a few heat cycles and dump to help flush the oil system then put a quality grade of oil in it. without deep scientific debate about oil qualities does anybody have any thoughts on the gradual drop in oil pressure. Is it lack of quality oil or maybe a oil pump issue developing. I didnt see any metal/metallic flakes in the initial drain to raise concern. I personally think it might be oil quality issue but don't know these very well. Do they have pump issues. Excessive bearing wear. There wasn't any smoke from the exhaust to indicate any kind of ring or guide issue...please comment and let me know what you think

 

[Coug]

Normal operating pressure is supposed to be 25-60. If the gauge is reading 23 after operating for 45 minutes it's still very close, and these gauges aren't the most accurate to begin with. You said earlier it has 2 hours on the meter after going through reset, so no idea how many hours are actually on the engine. It's not actually broken in until it's got 100 hours on it, so that could also be part of it if it was low hours before reset.

Was the oil pressure dropping slowly over time and still dropping, or did it drop then sit at that pressure for a while?

I'm going to assume you used 15w40 oil, if not that would also explain the oil pressure. There's nothing wrong with off brand oil if it still meets the same specs as the engine calls for.

Were it mine I wouldn't worry too much about it at this point, I'd get a load to run it on and see how the oil pressure does with the load. If it doesn't drop any further then I'd say you're good to go. If it does drop lower I'd do the oil change to a good brand name 15w40 with the proper specs for this engine and go from there. But that's just me.

 

[Zed254]

Last time I ran my 803 I recorded 78% PF load/190F coolant temp/30psi oil pressure with ambient 83F one hour into the run. TM shows.....

Lubricating System:
Type Full flow, circulating pressure
Oil Pump Type Positive displacement gear
Normal Operating Pressure 25-60 psi (172-414 kPa)
Oil Filter Type Full flow, spin-on, replaceable element
Lubricating System Capacity 5.9 qts. (5 6 L)
Pressure Indicating System
Voltage Rating 24 VDC

Are you running 15W40 diesel engine oil?

Coug's got a good point: If you've got 10W30 break in oil you need to stay with it for 100 hours or so on a newly rebuilt engine.

 

[76shovel]

Sorry if I mislead anyone on this...hour meter states 587. The reset tag was stamped 2.0hrs. The tag doesnt state a tier two reset. Just a reset "Date 09/05" "hrs 2.0"...someone mentioned the hrs are what it had when it left after reset for testing hrs. I dont know myself


As for oil pressure I cant be exact but was just over the 20psi mark. I will take a pic later and that way we can see for sure. As for the pressure drop, at start up it was about 50psi...then it was a gradual drop to the low 20's after about 45 minutes of run time. There was no sudden loss or drastic drop on the gauge. So once it got to the point it was i decided to shut it down because there are variables in the gauges and didnt want to run the risk of damage to anything. The temp consistent once it got to operating temperature. To me...everything looked, sounded and smelled like it should outside of the pressure drop over 45 minutes of running. I have a fees days off and will look into it more and keep posted of what i do and find.

So far pretty happy with it. It is putting out 121v on leg 1 and 123v on leg 3 and 243v across both on my volt meter and according to the gauge it is just over the 240 mark so i would assume that gauge was accurate that time and was running a needles width over 60hz mark

 

[76shovel]

Ok here is the pics i have...8:30


8:40


8:45


8:50


And lastly 9:30

 

[Coug]

So going by the pics, it looks like pressure dropped as oil got warmer over time, and then settled out at right around the minimum spec for the operating range. The last two it's pretty much the same pressure there, so I personally would not be worried.

Probably good for your oil change you mentioned before to a better known brand of oil, double check that the pressure is still staying in the same ranges, and call it good.

These are electrical type pressure and temp senders, not mechanical, so lots of things can cause them to not read accurately. Provided the temps and pressure and things like that display the same every time rather than accurate to reality is probably more important, as it gives you a baseline in order to tell when something out of the ordinary is occurring.

 

[76shovel]

Thank you for your input/advice...gonna do another heat cycle and drain it and fill with Rotella unless there is a better option...i open for suggestions

 

[frank8003]

It does not use straight 30W?

 

[Zed254]

Check the Lubrication Order. I've got 15-40 in mine. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=716274&d=1516645235

 

[Sephirothq]

Good stuff I will be sure to reference this thread when I go to get mine going