The beast died after hitting a bump!!

[big block 88]

I would just do a simple tension check on the belts, just push on the belts near center between the two pulley and see how much it deflects. (Engine not running of course). TM I believe lists the accepted deflection numbers.

As for the alt i would check it by hand also by looking at shaft play and bearing noise. If all seems fine then i would start it and start poking and prodding for issue and known problem areas.

 

[Brutacus]

I checked my belts this morning, and the only one I found that was loose is the water pump belt. It looked worn so I ordered a new belt. I haven't found any loose wires or connections, but I'm NOT ruling that one out yet. I did find that my truck is leaking diesel. See the pictures below. Also I found that there is a lot of crud in my fuel tank that I can't identify with, and a few of the tank fittings seem to be wet. The tank can flushed out and new lines run plumbed in pretty easy and for cheap. My main concern is this fuel leak now. Could a hard jarring bump have caused this? I could see a leak causing the truck to die, especially if it is sucking in air.

 

[2deuce]

I would check your batteries again like Doghead suggested. They do not have to move much in certain circumstances for a battery terminal to contact the side of the box. If that did happen the arcing would be visible. This would also explain your screeching belts, because the alt is on full demand and your belts are old, worn, or loose and can't take that. Your truck on 12 volts or less would drop the fuel solenoid and kill the engine. After too many starts and stops, plus a short with the batteries won't allow the starter voltage to crank your engine.

 

[Brutacus]

Before anyone say's anything, these are the batteries that where in the truck when I bought is. The batteries did not make contact with anything and the connections are good. The batteries are too tall for the cover to even fit over them. I know they are not correct, but the truck would start and run just fine before this happened. I do plan on changing them at some point in the future. Oh by the way, how do check the voltage on a multi battery 24 volt system? Do I disconnect them and check each battery separately, or do I just the overall voltage of the system?

 

[big block 88]

Overall voltage of the system. Im impressed with a d8 and a small civy battery mix match. Im gonna say your batteries are an issue.

 

[Brutacus]

I know the batteries are another issue, a BIG issue. The previous owner had it wired up this way, but now I own it and want to change it. I'm looking into another 8D or 2 smaller ones like it, maybe a 6D. I really don't care as long as it can function properly, and the cover steps fit over them in place.

 

[Nomadic]

You probably nailed one issue, the squeaking belt.

I'd handle the low hanging fruit and replace the fuel filter if that hasn't been done since you've had the truck and as stated, replace the batteries. Here is an off-the-cuff wild guess on the remaining problems, if the engine was starving of fuel and died repeatedly, the multiple restarts may have drained the battery too low and the alternator didn't have time to recharge the battery between starts. The well used batteries no longer hold a charge or won't supply the required amps to the starter. Another thing to consider since there are no loose connections and after the batteries are replaced and it still won't turn over, the starter motor may have jammed. You can tap the starter gently to unfreeze it. But in the case of a stuck starter motor, you might hear a click from the solenoid trying to engage the motor.

 

[big block 88]

I know the batteries are another issue, a BIG issue. The previous owner had it wired up this way, but now I own it and want to change it. I'm looking into another 8D or 2 smaller ones like it, maybe a 6D. I really don't care as long as it can function properly, and the cover steps fit over them in place.

My only reason for harping on the batteries is the fuel shut off. If it lost voltage it will not run. So i would get your voltage tested. I run twin 8d batteries and it work amazing, spins the motor fast and plenty of juice for my accessories.

There is a manual fuel screw on the solenoid that will force the motor to run. Turn it all the way in and see if she fires up.

 

[Brutacus]

Ok, I've checked my batteries and have determined the little civy battery is bad. The 8D is good. Now here is part of the battery problem solved, I have another 8D that is also good. Can the M818 handle two 8D batteries? The other problem I'm having with the batteries is that they are too tall for the battery cover to fit over them without making contact with the bottom of the cover. If there is a way to lower them in the battery box so they clear the cover, PLEASE let me know. When the truck was running, the gauge was right in the middle of the green on the gauge. Is that where it is supposed to be when it is charging? If it is, then my alternator might be good. I'm still looking for loose wires, and I'm trying to figure out why the bottom of the fuel pump and throttle is wet. How hard is it to replace the throttle seals?

 

[Jbulach]

The truck will be much better with two 8D's.

Depending on how the car battery went "bad", was likely your entire problem. Make sure the new batteries are both fully charged, check the voltage across both batteries with a meter, start the truck and check the voltage again...

 

[doghead]

Put the terminals to the inside, then you can put the step back on.

 

[MyothersanM1]

I use two Interstate group 31's and have had no starting problems. Then again, I don't have cold weather issues in So Cal.
I installed an M915 battery box a year ago which has room for four group 31's or 6TL's, if needed. The box is a much better set-up than the OEM. Just an upgrade, with minimal modification, suggestion.

 

[Brutacus]

Now that the battery problem is figured out, what does anyone know about this stuff? I was told the white crud in my tank is probably algae. WTF, I have algae growing in my tank!! I was also told that cummins make something that gets rid of it and, this algae can clog up fuels lines and filters if it gets out of control. This could explain why my truck seemed like it wasn't getting any fuel. Has anyone had any experience with this stuff?

 

[doghead]

That is corrosion, not algae.

You should be treating your fuel all the time, to help kill algea.

Just pull the strainer out and clean it. We've seen this many many times.

 

[Nomadic]

Now that the battery problem is figured out, what does anyone know about this stuff? I was told the white crud in my tank is probably algae. WTF, I have algae growing in my tank!! I was also told that cummins make something that gets rid of it and, this algae can clog up fuels lines and filters if it gets out of control. This could explain why my truck seemed like it wasn't getting any fuel. Has anyone had any experience with this stuff?

Do you mean replacing the battery fixed the non-start problem?

 

[Brutacus]

Do you mean replacing the battery fixed the non-start problem?

No, replacing the battery fixed another underlying issue. I still don't, can't get that click of the solenoid when I turn the ignition switch. I do have a keyed ignition switch from those military guys, so when I install that sometime over the holidays, I'm wanting to trace that issue to it's roots.

 

[Shirehorse]

If you are not getting any solenoid/starter engagement, check that the wiring connectors at the bottom of the PCB are secure. If they are, try bypassing the PCB. If it starts with PCB bypassed, the relays in the PCB are bad. I don't offhand have the pictures for that process, but unless I am mistaken, there are several threads on it. Use a 10ga wire.

 

[Brutacus]

Update, We have solved the No-Start problem. It turns out 2 of the battery cables going over to the solenoid/starter have some serious corrosion in, under the sheathing. I've put a temp cable on it and the beast fires right up! I'm going to replace those cable and battery terminal clamps with new hardware. That solves that problem. After Christmas, I'm going to replace ALL the belts, and both fuel filters. I'm going to change the oil filter to a spin on type when I change the oil. With that done, I'm hoping the beast will stay running, instead of dying while just idling. It will start up, idles rough between 600 and 400 rpms, gradually dropping until the engine dies. Would running the dual fuel line mod help the rough idle smooth out some? Oh yeah, I also found out my battery boxes are rotted out. Do the plastic boxes fit the same, or do they make the battery sit higher than the steel box does?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Plastic boxes fit the same!

 

[MyothersanM1]

Oh yeah, I also found out my battery boxes are rotted out.

I have two very good used tan plastic battery boxes with 6TL hold-downs (no j-bolts), but the hardware is for side securement (M939-series upgrade box). They can be reconfigured using the hardware from your old boxes.
Shipping may be a little high, but send me a PM if you are interested.