The M1031 with 5" lift, 12-bolt H1's and no spacers build!

[tvguy]

I put a little paint on the bare metal of the fenders. For now, I'm calling the lift "done".

 

[tvguy]

More pics . . .

 

[tvguy]

A few last ones . . .

 

[tvguy]

And yes, the wheels only have 4 lug nuts on them (need to get some more) and I need to rake my yard!

 

[dstang97]

Couple of questions for ya

how far past the front fender do the tires stick out?
How long before we get pictures with the bed on?
Btw I really like the work you did.

 

[tvguy]

Couple of questions for ya

how far past the front fender do the tires stick out?
How long before we get pictures with the bed on?
Btw I really like the work you did.

I'd guess the tires stick out less than 2". I'll take a measurement tomorrow and confirm.

I don't know on the bed . . . I'd like to get it done soon but I have the whole family coming in for Thanksgiving so things are starting to get busy. Today was really the last day to work on the CUCV for a bit.

 

[tvguy]

I went for a quick test drive this afternoon . . . I think the wheels need balancing. They probably haven't been run in years.

I picked up another set of 12-bolt wheels this weekend. I'm gonna clean them up and weld a set of rock rings on and probably get them powdercoated. I think I'm going to the PVC inserts too. While I'm doing that I'm planning to pick up a "new" set of 37's.

 

[landen300]

Looks awesome. The newly shaped wheel arches are very Humvee-esque. Inner fender shouldn't be too hard to finish out by the looks of it. Nice work!

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

You pinion angle is WAY too high and your probably getting vibes from it. This is a typical problem with a rear shackle flip. You need to either cut and reposition your spring perches or shim it down.

Ofcourse if your running a double cardon drive shaft then your probably ok but it still looks a little high for even that really. The rear yoke needs to be @ 2 degrees down from the tranny yoke, or if your using a double cardon shaft then you would point the rear yoke directly at the tranny yoke and the double cardon will cancel out the vibrations in the joints.

 

[tvguy]

You pinion angle is WAY too high and your probably getting vibes from it. This is a typical problem with a rear shackle flip. You need to either cut and reposition your spring perches or shim it down.

Ofcourse if your running a double cardon drive shaft then your probably ok but it still looks a little high for even that really. The rear yoke needs to be @ 2 degrees down from the tranny yoke, or if your using a double cardon shaft then you would point the rear yoke directly at the tranny yoke and the double cardon will cancel out the vibrations in the joints.

I only drove it for about 15 minutes yesterday and didn't get past 50 mph, but didn't notice any vibration. One of the tires is out of balance though.

The pinion is pointed directly at the Tcase. I'm gonna run it as is for now and if it's starts vibrating then I'll make the appropriate changes, either in the form of new perches or a CV.

 

[K5NUTT]

I see you are using a lot of high quality ORD parts on your rig.
Stephen at ORD is a **** of a guy. Been friends since the first
blazer bash in 2000. Course...it is nice to have ORD 65 miles
away from the house.

 

[vinny-socom1]

Looks really nice!!! just wonder if a 6" lift spring would have solved your rubbing issue?

Vinny

 

[tvguy]

I see you are using a lot of high quality ORD parts on your rig.
Stephen at ORD is a **** of a guy. Been friends since the first
blazer bash in 2000. Course...it is nice to have ORD 65 miles
away from the house.

Yeah, I've been happy with all the ORD stuff. For example, I ordered a ubolt kit for the front and when I went to install the it I realized the factory bolts that go into the 60 housing weren't going to work . . . they were too short. Fortunately, there were two longer studs in the kit just for that purpose. They thought of everything!

 

[tvguy]

Looks really nice!!! just wonder if a 6" lift spring would have solved your rubbing issue?

Vinny

Possibly, but I'm happy with the 5" lift . . . it's tall enough already!

 

[rickf]

You pinion angle is WAY too high and your probably getting vibes from it. This is a typical problem with a rear shackle flip. You need to either cut and reposition your spring perches or shim it down.

Ofcourse if your running a double cardon drive shaft then your probably ok but it still looks a little high for even that really. The rear yoke needs to be @ 2 degrees down from the tranny yoke, or if your using a double cardon shaft then you would point the rear yoke directly at the tranny yoke and the double cardon will cancel out the vibrations in the joints.

I am glad to see this pointed out since SO many people get it wrong. Another problem I see a lot is u-joint phasing.

Rick

 

[skysix]

What about getting some 73 pattern quarter panels (with the verticle lights) ?

 

[tvguy]

You pinion angle is WAY too high and your probably getting vibes from it. This is a typical problem with a rear shackle flip. You need to either cut and reposition your spring perches or shim it down.

Ofcourse if your running a double cardon drive shaft then your probably ok but it still looks a little high for even that really. The rear yoke needs to be @ 2 degrees down from the tranny yoke, or if your using a double cardon shaft then you would point the rear yoke directly at the tranny yoke and the double cardon will cancel out the vibrations in the joints.

I am glad to see this pointed out since SO many people get it wrong. Another problem I see a lot is u-joint phasing.

Rick

Here's a copy of reply from Chris from ORD to a similar question of pinion angle after a shackle flip on CK5 . . .

"I would set up your lift and see how your truck drives. There is so much of this that depends on how you're getting lift (shackle flip, springs, blocks, a combo of any of the above) and there is no cut and dry answer. Some people will tell you that "matching the angles" (i.e making the operating angles of the two u-joints the same) will fix everything will leave you with no vibrations.

The short answer to that is that it won't. The concept of matching angles is this: u-joints inherently vibrate (each of their caps speeds up and slows down as they rotate) and their yokes are phased such that they cancel out the vibration of the other. The problem is, Spicer says that works up to ~3-4 degrees of operating angle. A stock truck is pushing that, any lifted truck will be far above it.

So there is a mix. You can try "matching the angles" and you may end up with operating angles too extreme to eliminate vibrations. You can try pointing the pinion up, which lowers the operating angle on both joints but guarantees that there will be some vibration (in my experience this can still be the best option and doesn't mean you will notice it over the rumble of the tires) . . ."

So, as recommend I'm going to try it as is and see how it does. I haven't driven it enough yet to even make a determination.

 

[rickf]

All true, And if you use the same u-joints you had befoe the lift and they have any real miles you can also pick up a vibration. I would suggest that IF you are using the original u-joints and you get a vibration to put in new joints before anything else.

Rick

 

[EODTECH90]

not to hijack but whats the difference between the agr 2wd box and a napa repacement for a m1028?

 

[tvguy]

You pinion angle is WAY too high and your probably getting vibes from it. This is a typical problem with a rear shackle flip. You need to either cut and reposition your spring perches or shim it down.

Ofcourse if your running a double cardon drive shaft then your probably ok but it still looks a little high for even that really. The rear yoke needs to be @ 2 degrees down from the tranny yoke, or if your using a double cardon shaft then you would point the rear yoke directly at the tranny yoke and the double cardon will cancel out the vibrations in the joints.

I am glad to see this pointed out since SO many people get it wrong. Another problem I see a lot is u-joint phasing.

Rick

All true, And if you use the same u-joints you had befoe the lift and they have any real miles you can also pick up a vibration. I would suggest that IF you are using the original u-joints and you get a vibration to put in new joints before anything else.

Rick

Got new u-joints when I had the shaft lengthened.