Darwin T
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Looks Awsome!!
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Dunno what good these things do, back when I was on active duty 2acr 84th eng 1998 to 2004 we pulled all the solergizers off cuz most were cracked and broke anyways. Proper pmcs and maint on the batterys is the best thing you can do. When we railloaded to ntc or even just around the motorpool slave cables were rarely needed usually because some new private left the blackout drive lights onThe manufacturer claims a 3X increase in battery life. I can only hope.
http://www.pulsetech.net/productinfo/product_sheets/SolarPulse_Specs.pdf
See post #17. I use rubber grommets in the holes for this purpose.I'm changing out the hood on my deuce. I already had a new solargizer off e-bay but I figured I would keep using the old one until it dies. Today I removed the bolts on the old one but it still wouldn't come loose. I thought maybe some sealant around the holes? I pried up each corner carefully but still it wouldn't budge. Finally I figured, well, it's no use to me on here so let's do whatever it takes to remove it! Turned out to be some double-sided tape or something like that underneath that was so strong, the base plate was damaged in the attempt to remove it.
I'm curious if anyone thinks these should be mounted with some tiny spacers underneath to keep a pocket of moisture from always being there underneath?
It would probably work, though the instructions do say to not alter the control box to battery wire length, and this would be doing that, in essence.Would it work OK to attach the Neg lead to the Neg ground bus bar?
Thanks,but I really meant the whole thread not just the previous post.I will not cut or alter any of the systems wireing.It would probably work, though the instructions do say to not alter the control box to battery wire length, and this would be doing that, in essence.
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