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Things I have learned that most of you know already. Please add to this list.

JOECOOL48

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I could not afford sand blasting of my M35A2, so I used a combination of the following. Pneumatic scraper for gummy paint and under coating, Needle scaler for rust and hard to reach paint chips, wire wheels, And most of all paint removal disk. The disk look like a souped up sponge. but don't let the looks fool you though, they are tough and will cut through to bare metal like lightening, and they are long lasting.. A belt sander is good to use on large flat surfaces like the beds of trucks and trailers. Attach a small rope to the sander, attach the sander cord to the rope in several places to keep the sander from running over its cord. Push the the continuous power button on the sander. Grab the cord and play it out and then reel it back in. once you learn the trick you can glide it back and forth from one side to the other. This is very good for removing rust. Just make sure you don't have hit any bolt, nuts or jagged metal. (not good for the belt)
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When painting the bed I used a roller on a 5 foot extension I have also used a squeeze, both work well. For other parts I used $12 spray guns from Harbor Freight. I used the gravity feed http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html and the http://www.harborfreight.com/lightweight-high-pressure-spray-gun-93205.html (on Sale) depending on which one would fit in the space that needed to be painted.

For paint mixing I converted an old electric ice cream churn to stir my gallon cans. Punch a hole in an old paint can lid and insert a drill stirrer. Use a small length of rubber tubing to shove up in the churn motor and connect the stirrer in the other end. If you don't have a churn, take the blade off of an electric fan and attach the stirrer to it turn it on low. This is really useful for old paints that have separated.

For the cans of spray paint, I used a double barrel rock tumbler. This was especially useful for Rapco cans. The best things about the paint mixers is you can leave them running and go work on something else, or in my case sit down and have a orange drink and a pack of crackers.
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Having trouble reading the numbers on electrical wires because of four layers of paint and mud? Use a small air grinder with a soft wire wheel to run over the metal numbers. It will not eat the rubber coating and make the numbers so old folks like me can read them. Afterward if you still can't read them hit the metal numbers with a shot of dark spray paint and then rub the area with your finger to remove paint and that will make the numbers stand out even more. I also use this brush to remove old paint on rubber gaskets around work lights. Afterwards I spray tire shine on the gaskets and they look like new. A before and after photo below
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I used an air compressor hooked in through the rear trailer air connector so I could run down any air leaks. I could not hear the leaks over the engine noise.
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Please feel free to add your tips, tricks and things that make restoration easier.
Thanks,
Joe
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I thought the rear glad hands had check valves in them. Your not supposed to be able to feed your air system that way.
 

JOECOOL48

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Did I mess something up by doing that? I hooked it up on the right rear "Emergency" coupler. I hope I did not tear something up but it puts my air gauge at 100 on my instrument panel, and I was able to hear several air leaks in different places that I fixed.

I failed to mention it in this post but the way I remove water out of burnt oil atf and fuel can be found @. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...g-water-from-oil-with-out-a-heat-sourse/page5 Post #43
 

clinto

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I could have sworn I had fed pressurized air through the emergency gladhand to look for leaks
 

welldigger

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I could have sworn I had fed pressurized air through the emergency gladhand to look for leaks
On an a2 I don't see the problem with doing this. An a3 however has a priority valve that only pops open when the air pressure reaches a certain psi. When the air pressure is below that threshold the priority valve directs air to the dual air packs. This is in case of a catastrophic loss of air pressure you still retain some brake boost. I believe the priority valve is a one way valve so this method probably wouldn't work on an a3. However I haven't tried it and I have been wrong before.
 
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