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Third's Build Discussion

Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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Yeah, these are just cheapie slides from Lowes. My issue isn't really with the slides as much as I made everything very tight thinking it would be easier to remove excess wood than to add too the wood (ie: no tolerance allowed for error). The drawers are only 18"x16" so won't have a lot of weight really. I have some of those cheap push/popout latches (going to use them in the drawers and overheads).

I had a 1973 Winnebago Brave that had very simple drawers with no slides. You had to life the handle up to get them out of the "notch" so they could open. I originally planned to replicate those (with a deep enough notch I don't think they would ever come open while wheeling). But I decided to go with $5 Lowes drawer slides and push button latches instead (I may regret it).

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INFChief

INFChief

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Third From Texas said:
So it begins...

Winter project: time to start putting the piles of stuff sitting in the living room into the hab.

Next step will be to gut the hab, pull the lighting and re-land some of the electrical drops, paint the interior, lay the flooring and radiant heat, then get really busy.

:)

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I’m sorry but I had to laugh! We must have similar living rooms! My wife has had enough. Cab of my 1083 is full and ran out of space to put things. Weather is turning the corner so I hope to be outside working on it soon.
 
INFChief

INFChief

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Third From Texas said:
I have a 10hp Dewey BAPU (24v diesel battery charger). I modified it by changing out the charging head to a 6500k generator head. Sadly, two years later after only 24 hrs of run time, the generator head suffered a catastrophic internal mechanical failure.

I'm debating just putting the 24v charging head back on. There's at least one user on here (I honestly don't recall whom) who was going this route (24v charger w/inverter). A replacement generator head is not only more difficult to locate but much more expensive these days.

I've been using my spare 6K gas-powered genset since the Northstar gen head took a crap.
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I’ve been thinking about a generator too. The Army had a 4.2 kw unit that we put on top of M577 Command Posts (M113 chassis). Those put out 28 volts DC and would provide sufficient battery power so we did not need to run the main engine. Have you come across anything smaller but fully capable of providing up to 200 amps?
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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INFChief said:
I’ve been thinking about a generator too. The Army had a 4.2 kw unit that we put on top of M577 Command Posts (M113 chassis). Those put out 28 volts DC and would provide sufficient battery power so we did not need to run the main engine. Have you come across anything smaller but fully capable of providing up to 200 amps?
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I haven't really looked. More output equates to higher HP requirement (my cap is 10HP diesel).

As I said, first plan was to remove the 24v charge head and run a 120v generator head. I did, but it died.

I was pondering a swap back to the 24v charging head, but I'm wondering that it won't play nice with Lithium Ion house batteries. It's rated 150A continuous.

The solution is on hold until I settle on the house batteries, then I'll re-assess. I don't know if I will be able to charge Lithiums with the existing charge head. Maybe there is some sort of a charge controller solution (I'm not a electrician and a lot of this stuff is above my pay grade, so thank god for YouTube).
 
chucky

chucky

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Third From Texas said:
I haven't really looked. More output equates to higher HP requirement (my cap is 10HP diesel).

As I said, first plan was to remove the 24v charge head and run a 120v generator head. I did, but it died.

I was pondering a swap back to the 24v charging head, but I'm wondering that it won't play nice with Lithium Ion house batteries. It's rated 150A continuous.

The solution is on hold until I settle on the house batteries, then I'll re-assess. I don't know if I will be able to charge Lithiums with the existing charge head. Maybe there is some sort of a charge controller solution (I'm not a electrician and a lot of this stuff is above my pay grade, so thank god for YouTube).
Click to expand...
We havnt seen much on the Boogloo Bonzie lately you still county lock up ? or house arrest/ankle monitor ?
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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chucky said:
We havnt seen much on the Boogloo Bonzie lately you still county lock up ? or house arrest/ankle monitor ?
Click to expand...
A couple other projects came up and for some totally unexplainable reason, everything started getting more, and more, and more, and more expensive since the 2020 election but I just can't quite put my finer on who exactly is causing it. ;p I did get the last of my water fittings in last week. Gas line stuff is ordered

I was in the hab yesterday getting things ready to pull the current bed and frame out. I need to secure the fresh water tank and make sure everything clears for the external filler port/door.

I'm a bit stumped with a minor issue with my cabinets. I want to retain the conduit drops from the wire tray to retain the industrial "feel" of the original and I'm thinking of simply drilling holes thru the base of the cabinets for the drops. But I'm still tinkering with that idea. I also want to mod/cut down the conduit tray covers so the tray can be accessed w/o pulling the cabinets if the need ever arises.

The the point of no return comes and I start cutting holes thru the hab. Water inlet, water heater, two fridge vents, the connection for the outside water hose (for washing sand off feet and K9), my shower/sink-to-grey tank drain hole (only hole in the floor as there is no black tank in the build).

Then I need to add a 12v wiring run to the fridge, interior lights, and pull the last of the 120v lighting. And I have several 24v runs to make. I need to run wire for my charger system (to the external truck battery bank) as well as a big 12v in run just in case. As well as prewire for the solar which will come in a couple years (holy fudge that chit is gittin' spensive, Brandon). I keep flip-flopping on having the house batteries inside or outside (know most of the pros/cons for both). I already am going to build a external electrical box to house my balancer and a few other bits so it would be quite simple to just slap the house batteries outside in one big unit. And I still need to decide if I want to delete the giant monolith of a breaker box to free up room (now's the time to do it if so).

Lots of method to my madness, but let's just say I did not plan well for retirement and the cost of living these days doesn't leave nearly as much each month to drop into the build as it used to. :(
 
INFChief

INFChief

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Location
New York
Third From Texas said:
A couple other projects came up and for some totally unexplainable reason, everything started getting more, and more, and more, and more expensive since the 2020 election but I just can't quite put my finer on who exactly is causing it. ;p I did get the last of my water fittings in last week. Gas line stuff is ordered

I was in the hab yesterday getting things ready to pull the current bed and frame out. I need to secure the fresh water tank and make sure everything clears for the external filler port/door.

I'm a bit stumped with a minor issue with my cabinets. I want to retain the conduit drops from the wire tray to retain the industrial "feel" of the original and I'm thinking of simply drilling holes thru the base of the cabinets for the drops. But I'm still tinkering with that idea. I also want to mod/cut down the conduit tray covers so the tray can be accessed w/o pulling the cabinets if the need ever arises.

The the point of no return comes and I start cutting holes thru the hab. Water inlet, water heater, two fridge vents, the connection for the outside water hose (for washing sand off feet and K9), my shower/sink-to-grey tank drain hole (only hole in the floor as there is no black tank in the build).

Then I need to add a 12v wiring run to the fridge, interior lights, and pull the last of the 120v lighting. And I have several 24v runs to make. I need to run wire for my charger system (to the external truck battery bank) as well as a big 12v in run just in case. As well as prewire for the solar which will come in a couple years (holy fudge that chit is gittin' spensive, Brandon). I keep flip-flopping on having the house batteries inside or outside (know most of the pros/cons for both). I already am going to build a external electrical box to house my balancer and a few other bits so it would be quite simple to just slap the house batteries outside in one big unit. And I still need to decide if I want to delete the giant monolith of a breaker box to free up room (now's the time to do it if so).

Lots of method to my madness, but let's just say I did not plan well for retirement and the cost of living these days doesn't leave nearly as much each month to drop into the build as it used to. :(
Click to expand...
Do you have enough room to mount the cabinets an inch or two off the wall (stand-offs) so the conduit can stay in place & no drilling is necessary to the cabinets?
 
chucky

chucky

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Third From Texas said:
I haven't really looked. More output equates to higher HP requirement (my cap is 10HP diesel).

As I said, first plan was to remove the 24v charge head and run a 120v generator head. I did, but it died.

I was pondering a swap back to the 24v charging head, but I'm wondering that it won't play nice with Lithium Ion house batteries. It's rated 150A continuous.

The solution is on hold until I settle on the house batteries, then I'll re-assess. I don't know if I will be able to charge Lithiums with the existing charge head. Maybe there is some sort of a charge controller solution (I'm not a electrician and a lot of this stuff is above my pay grade, so thank god for YouTube).
Click to expand...
I pre-wired for the solar and used #10 and drill it on a angle so you come out sort of flat on the roof and big enough hole to put use some kind of protection around the 2 #10 wires so theres no chance of ever rubbing on a sharp edge . Then use some windshield urethane and caulk the shit out of it both top and bottom and the reason for coming out flat so your under a solar panel with your connection . I used 2 in angle on the roof for the 3 solar panels to sit down into and protect from limbs and drill the 2 in so you can use self tapping screws into the ends of the solar panels and start watching the vids on youtube to decide how your going to wire the panels in series or paralele and 12 /24 /36 and what kind of controller .

On the fresh water if you havent already drilled for the fresh water (in) hook up mount it underneath beside the overflow hose hole water pressure will push it in and it will start squirting out when your full if you plumb it with pex they make a great 1/2 turn on off water valve with a flange and 2 holes for mounting screws and put you some kind of screen on inbound and overflow hoses so bugs dont crawl into the tank and you will need 2 holes in the floor for that then 2 more holes for the main drain on the fresh water and the other hole a little bigger for a natural drain in case you blow a line or any mishap give the water somewhere to go instead of flooding your camper !
 
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