Threadlocking Battery Stud to Post Adapters

[nf6x]

The group 31 (if I recall correctly) batteries that I've bought for my CUCV have stud terminals. I bought the cast lead stud to post adapters that screw onto the studs and then accept the truck's regular battery terminal clamps. Whenever I've used these adapters, I've found that they easily loosen up under any counter-clockwise tension from the battery cables.

Is there a good way to secure these adapters to keep them from loosening? Tightening them down too much just strips out the soft lead threads. Maybe lock washers would help a little. I hesitate to use thread locking compound because I'm not sure if the adapters will make a good enough electrical connection with that plastic goop in there.

Maybe I should just cut off the battery cable clamps and replace them with lugs that I could connect directly to the battery studs.

 

[NDT]

The group 31's come with posts as well. Can you swap them out?

 

[nf6x]

I could swap them out if I had another use for the ones with studs, but I don't. So, I'm stuck with these studly ones for now. When I bought them, my local Pep Boys didn't have any group 31s with posts in stock.

 

[caliber1]

I would use a lock washer. Stops the bolt from loosening, and gives a little better contact. Even better if you can find that size star type lock washer.

Good luck.

Jess

 

[steelandcanvas]

I don't think you'd have any problem with the thread-locker. I would imagine there would be still a lot of thread to thread contact.

 

[caliber1]

I'm just not sure if the thread locker would react with the lead terminals or not. Never tried it.

 

[papakb]

What you really want to use in this application is a star washer that will bite into the post and the battery to insure good electrical conductivity and mechanical lockdown.

Kurt

KG6KMJ

 

[wdbtchr]

I have been using a stainless steel (316 alloy) in side terminals with blue thread locker for years. This allows you to screw the stud to the very bottom and the contact will be just as much as without thread locker(area of thread contact). When I had my old International dump truck it also had the same setup and it drew a lot of amps, never a problem.

 

[goldneagle]

I tried using those adapters in my M931. Not good! As you said they seem to loosen up -which can cause serious issues. I would cut the clamps and use terminal ends.

 

[ODdave]

Dosnt the cucv have adapters on the oe cables that convert ring terminals to post? (all mind do). Take them off......

 

[nf6x]

IIRC, mine does not have the adapters. It has cast-on clamps like a civilian truck.

 

[nf6x]

Of course, if I chop off the existing clamps and crimp on lugs for direct connection to the battery studs, I can always bolt on a set of the military-style clamps if I get batteries with post terminals in the future. That might be my best option. McMaster-Carr carries the military-style clamps, as well as various battery cable lugs. When I need to replace battery wiring in my MVs, I usually use high-flex welding cable from them and make my own.

 

[goldneagle]

Of course, if I chop off the existing clamps and crimp on lugs for direct connection to the battery studs, I can always bolt on a set of the military-style clamps if I get batteries with post terminals in the future. That might be my best option. McMaster-Carr carries the military-style clamps, as well as various battery cable lugs. When I need to replace battery wiring in my MVs, I usually use high-flex welding cable from them and make my own.

I use welding wire for all my MV modes where heavy gauge wires are required. Example: I used #2 welding wire for the battery Equalizers I installed in my trucks. I also used 1/0 welding wire for the kill switch mod. (I needed longer cables to reach the switch)

Just take your time and make sure you crimp the terminal ends on tight.

 

[nf6x]

I have a big crimper from McMaster-Carr that I use for my battery/welding lugs. It has adjustable dies that make hex crimps, and it's made like a medium-sized bolt cutter. It cost a few hundred bucks, but it works very well. They also sell the hammer type crimpers for about $40, but I like hex crimps better.

 

[Scarecrow1]

I had a friend who runs an auto electric shop try to get me to replace mine with the screws instead of the post . He said they are really better than the post type. I didn't want to change them over but , Now that you have them just give them a try and see which you like the best........

 

[edpdx]

I know this is an older thread; but I had not seen it earlier and wanted to respond with a pretty handy option for those of you running the Group 31 batteries. When my M1009 was new to me it had the original 6TL batteries. I had starter issues, and in an attempt to find the problem, I swapped out these good batteries for new Group 31's from Auto Zone. These had the machine screw type posts. I bought the cast lead adapters; but immediately found them unreliable. As I looked over the options, I decided to cut the OEM Lead Connectors - replacing them with 3/8" copper rings connectors. These are secured to the battery with star washers (inside type) and Long Hex Washers.

IIRC the posts were 5/16"x about 1" height. The nuts I used were only found in 4" lengths, so I bought 4 of them and cut them in half. They are easily tightened and loosened by a 9/16" inch wrench. They never get torn or worn like lead connectors do and their length assures good contact and lessens the possibility that I will over-tighten them and wear off the threads at the bottom of the posts like I probably would with a standard nut. If you have these types of posts or find the cast adapters loosening on their own, give this a try. Easy on/easy off. Reliable.