4STARDAD
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Hey friends!!! Can anyone tell me if the 3 lever light switch can handle 12 volts?
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Three lever switch
- Thread starter 4STARDAD
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- 10,461
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- Camp Wood/LC, TX
Yes, the M880s used the switch with 12 volts, however, unless you are using LED headlights, you will be close to the trip point of the internal circuit breaker.
4STARDAD
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Is that inside the switch?
4STARDAD
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Do you know if anyone sells one with a higher amperage circuit breaker?
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Nope they are all the same and the breaker is sealed inside.
4STARDAD
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Ok...my son and I are planning to disconnect the M and L wires from the switch (headlights and parking) but leave the rest on the main so maybe we don't trip the breaker....the taillights will work but when I hit the service lights it all goes out...figure I'm tripping the breaker
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The only time I had issues with tripping the breaker on 12 volts was when pulling a civilian trailer with lots of clearance lights. Very scary to be going down a dark highway that night and have every single light go off.
4STARDAD
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Sounds like I either have a short or my switch is bad...correct? Are you still running original wiring?
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Could you get around the breaker issue by having the output from the switch trigger a relay that powers the headlights, instead of powering the headlights directly?
SgtMajHarper
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Many moons ago (like 40-45 years) I used one from an M151 on a civvy CJ2 with no issues and it was 6 volts. Only used it on the Jeep, no trailer.
msgjd
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My M880 of course is 12V with a BO switch .. Never had an issue even with fully-markered beavertail equip trailers with it.. My old "M38A5" uses a 12v system donated from a 70's CJ5, and it pulls M100 and M416 trailers bulbed at 12V, with no problems.. The BO switches work fine with 12V but as has been mentioned in this string, you have to watch your total amps , and if you have an unusual amount of lighting you certainly can wire in a relay or two for just the trailer lights or headlights, whichever are the heaviest loads
4STARDAD
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So they make a three lever switch in 12 volt?
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No. They work fine on 12V, but the internal circuit breaker may not handle the total load of a bunch of 12V lights.
Half the voltage, twice the current is how it works.
Half the voltage, twice the current is how it works.
4STARDAD
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My switch has gone bad....took it out and made a jumper from the 'F' wire to everything else and it all worked (still 24v, haven't switched bulbs yet) but the switch won't turn them on. Also pulled the 'L' and 'M' wires (headlights and parking) to put them on a separate toggle switch. Can these switches be repaired? Really don't want a cheap SE Asian copy...would rather repair MADE IN the US
msgjd
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I believe they are sealed and unrepairable .. If I am wrong I am sure someone will chime in .. They go bad on occasion, however most of mine are from the 1950s and 60s and are still in use
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Its sealed. Having said that, if its broke, you can not make it "broker". About 50 years ago, I took one apart. Its more work then it was worth. I just wanted to see what was in it. Then tossed it out.
4STARDAD
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Before I got the truck it was a firefighting brush truck...someone tried to put 12 volt 100 watt floodlight bulbs in the two drive blackout lights on the hood and even wired it backwards. Fried the #33 and K wire all the way back to the firewall. Now only the taillights work,sometimes...took the harness off the back and used a section of wire to jump from the F wire to all the others...they all worked...so the switch is toast....does anyone have a good used or maybe NOS or even made in USA?
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Start a "Parts Wanted" Thread. Its forum rules, and makes sense. You get better visibility. Give the thread a good, clear title.
4STARDAD
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10-4...thank you
4STARDAD
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Um...I don't wanna break rules here...can you give me guidance on how I'm supposed to post this? Thank you