Threw a Torque Rod today

[TCD]

Thanks Tom!

Do you happen to have any info and a picture of the civilian joint you found?

I'm also wondering if anyone has a real good idea of exactly how much space is necessary to allow for flex?

Also, if anyone around Cincinnati has an extra dog bone or two let Tom or myself know, I might be able to get it to him.

I used two of these:

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/torodendfor51.html

You can see that there is a lip on the outside of the insert to prevent the dog bone from slipping over and off the insert.

Thanks for the help with locating another dog bone!

Tom

 

[162tcat]

Those appear to be a ball joint. I wonder what application they are from, probably way cheaper if we were able to find out. Then they could be purchased at the auto parts store

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[simp5782]

I used two of these:

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/torodendfor51.html

You can see that there is a lip on the outside of the insert to prevent the dog bone from slipping over and off the insert.

Thanks for the help with locating another dog bone!

Tom

Did you see or get any numbers off the insert when you got it?

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[TCD]

Howdy simp5782,

The parts were unmarked and I am under the impression from conversations with Eric that he may be having them made... I have not found any direct replacement for Eric's part myself.

Tom

 

[162tcat]

Howdy simp5782,

The parts were unmarked and I am under the impression from conversations with Eric that he may be having them made... I have not found any direct replacement for Eric's part myself.

Tom

It's unlikely they could have them custom made and sell them at that price. It's most likely some stock application that someone took the time to look up. Anyone work at an autoparts store? Most likely from a medium duty truck application.

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[simp5782]

Torque rod inserts are made by new star more than likely. Thru distributor S&S on my end. They are $103 each my cost if i buy just two. I will have their part number by Monday. Showing a torque insert gone on my truck but still lasted 4000miles.


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[162tcat]

So your going to swap them to the ball joint style as the old bushing type fail? I'm curious to see your results since you rack up a lot of miles.

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[simp5782]

So your going to swap them to the ball joint style as the old bushing type fail? I'm curious to see your results since you rack up a lot of miles.

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Replacing 2 torque rods this week. Two next then the last 2 in a few weeks. I am also going to a 4 link system is my plan

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[juanprado]

Interesting design and looks light years better for Safety. Even though a ball joint stud can fail/break it seems less likely than the rubber bushing failing and the arm popping out.

At least the lip of the ball joint would keep the joint in place.

Does the flat face of the ball joint where the grease fitting screws in have any markings or numbers? It really does not look like an aftermarket automotive/truck ball joint with that taper and flat rubber boot that I recall.

 

[Jbulach]

Torque rod inserts are made by new star more than likely. Thru distributor S&S on my end. They are $103 each my cost if i buy just two. I will have their part number by Monday. Showing a torque insert gone on my truck but still lasted 4000miles. View attachment 672091View attachment 672092View attachment 672093View attachment 672094


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Any price break for 12 at a time?

Guess I should wait to see how they hold up for you though...

 

[simp5782]

Any price break for 12 at a time?

Guess I should wait to see how they hold up for you though...

at 100 bought together they are 75 each including freight.

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[162tcat]

Any price break for 12 at a time?

Guess I should wait to see how they hold up for you though...

As long as they are greased occasionally and aren't made from low quality materials, they should last almost forever with the use that 99.9% of these trucks get. I'm sure somebody may wear them out but it will likely be from lack of maitenance.

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[simp5782]

Interesting design and looks light years better for Safety. Even though a ball joint stud can fail/break it seems less likely than the rubber bushing failing and the arm popping out.

At least the lip of the ball joint would keep the joint in place.

Does the flat face of the ball joint where the grease fitting screws in have any markings or numbers? It really does not look like an aftermarket automotive/truck ball joint with that taper and flat rubber boot that I recall.

No juan. No numbers only a small star on it. Otherwise its bare. The cost of it told me it wasnt custom. They also weigh 12lbs each. I guess a guy named Henry years ago made something similar and tried to sell them to memphis equipment and they didnt want to go that route.
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[Jbulach]

Even if it was a typical ball joint in another application, I don't think you will beat that price. Crawl under your truck, for a refresher on the size of these things!

 

[74M35A2]

Put me on the list. Anybody do a retention method? Bolt/washer?

 

[TCD]

Howdy,

My solution works for me:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ue-Rod-today&p=1971287&viewfull=1#post1971287

I ended up drilling and tapping the original insert. Biggest pain was removing the dog-bones and setting them up in the mill.

Tom

 

[74M35A2]

Thanks Tom, it is helpful. Sorry I did not check all references before posting, even this thread fully. Sometimes when something of this nature happens it can be an immediate oh s%#t moment.

 

[simp5782]

Thanks Tom, it is helpful. Sorry I did not check all references before posting, even this thread fully. Sometimes when something of this nature happens it can be an immediate oh s%#t moment.

Its ok. Swamp, jeff and I all agree that you were probably as scared as a little kid who just broke his mom favorite thing

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[Jbulach]

Dang, tough crowd! Ive been dreading this scenario, how did you throw yours? Gimpyrob also had some cool drilled and tapped ends on his deuce at Haspin, sounds like the same as Tom has. This is another thing on my to do list, that probably wont happen until it "HAPPENS"...

 

[Tinstar]

I think about this thread topic every time I drive my M925A2.
They all look great so I think I will work on a retention method instead of replacement.

Heavy gauge flat washer welded in center most likely. There isn't much lateral force on these so that should be fine.
I've seen several trucks here on SS that have done just that.

Drill and tap would be great, but I'm not taking them off to do that.
That would be a nightmare in itself.