Spitfirebuilder
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I’m getting ready to do an engine swap and the motor is locked up. Should I pull the transmission with the engine or just slip the torque converter out?
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Tied up engine pull
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papakb
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Your better off pulling the power pack as a unit rather than individually. It also affords you a good opportunity to inspect and service the TC.
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Or do what I’ve done, drop the Oil pan and cut the crank past where the piston is seized or grenaded.
done it several times.
done it several times.
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Where does it say that in the TM's ?
Itching to use my rotozip, CAMO
Itching to use my rotozip, CAMO
Spitfirebuilder
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So pull the engine trans and transfer case as one unit still connected? I planned to pull all three anyway but that would sure be easier.
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Make sure your cherry picker is up to the task as that is a great deal of weight and is off center.
If you support the tranny you can undo bolts on the bell housing and risk the tranny input shaft. If you do this carefully you will probably be ok.
If you pull as one unit, you need to shorten up the boom and also use an underside jack to support the heavy and off-center weight from the t-case and tranny.
RWH is always spot on regarding helpful advice. His idea of cutting the crank at the rear so that the flexplate and the torque converter remain connected to the tranny seems well thought out. You will lose a valuable engine part if you had any desire to rebuild the current frozen engine, but you will easily separate the tranny from the engine..
Just one question... What have you done to try to free up the frozen engine? There are many threads in this forum re.: frozen engines that were restored to full function even after water was found in the cylinders.
Have you tried Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder for 1-2 days followed by an attempt to use a long spanner bar to turn the rotating assembly?
Best,
T
If you support the tranny you can undo bolts on the bell housing and risk the tranny input shaft. If you do this carefully you will probably be ok.
If you pull as one unit, you need to shorten up the boom and also use an underside jack to support the heavy and off-center weight from the t-case and tranny.
RWH is always spot on regarding helpful advice. His idea of cutting the crank at the rear so that the flexplate and the torque converter remain connected to the tranny seems well thought out. You will lose a valuable engine part if you had any desire to rebuild the current frozen engine, but you will easily separate the tranny from the engine..
Just one question... What have you done to try to free up the frozen engine? There are many threads in this forum re.: frozen engines that were restored to full function even after water was found in the cylinders.
Have you tried Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder for 1-2 days followed by an attempt to use a long spanner bar to turn the rotating assembly?
Best,
T
Spitfirebuilder
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Yes. I’ve filled the cylinders at least 10 times with several products. But the biggest thing to make me feel it’s shot is I dumped some antifreeze in the reservoir and I had the oil drain plug out. The antifreeze instantly came out of the oil pan. So I assume there’s some hole in the water jacket in the block.
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Drop the oil pan, unbolt the rod end and see if you can pound the piston up into the cylinder, I was able to do that on one I had that way.
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RWH has more experience with HMMWV's than I do. Listen to him, but I will still give some advice.
I would drop the oil pan and look for the seized piston. Should be obvious if you have a cracked cylinder wall. Then press the piston up or cut the cranks, as per both of RWH's suggestions. Gasket leak can do this too. Engine parts might be salvageable. Cracked heads might also be to blame, especially if EGT's got a bit too hot.
Pulling an engine with the torque converter is similar to pulling and engine with the clutch attached... be mindful of the tranny input shaft and raise the tranny and engine to allow the engine to pull off without hitting the engine mounts. Tranny input shaft might get caught up ona corroded brass bushing in crankshaft. 5-10 lb persuader tapping the inner steel part of the harmonic ballancer can help.
Might want to pull the engine mounts and the exhaust headers to make the job easier. Pulling the intake manifild and heads will make the engine lighter and smaller and easier to pull, and may help define the failure point. Also allows hitting the pistons from above for additional loosening power.
Be slow and deliberate and good luck! Use lots of redundant wheel chocks and jackstands and chain for the engine. I tripple chain engines because I've has chains snap. Fortunately I had second and third chains that were loose and were there as safety nets. Redundancy breads safety. Just ask the poor guy I just patched up for open fractures because he jacked up his car and did not use safety chocks or jackstands.
GREAT LONG WEEKEND PROJECT!!! Have fun!
Best,
T
I would drop the oil pan and look for the seized piston. Should be obvious if you have a cracked cylinder wall. Then press the piston up or cut the cranks, as per both of RWH's suggestions. Gasket leak can do this too. Engine parts might be salvageable. Cracked heads might also be to blame, especially if EGT's got a bit too hot.
Pulling an engine with the torque converter is similar to pulling and engine with the clutch attached... be mindful of the tranny input shaft and raise the tranny and engine to allow the engine to pull off without hitting the engine mounts. Tranny input shaft might get caught up ona corroded brass bushing in crankshaft. 5-10 lb persuader tapping the inner steel part of the harmonic ballancer can help.
Might want to pull the engine mounts and the exhaust headers to make the job easier. Pulling the intake manifild and heads will make the engine lighter and smaller and easier to pull, and may help define the failure point. Also allows hitting the pistons from above for additional loosening power.
Be slow and deliberate and good luck! Use lots of redundant wheel chocks and jackstands and chain for the engine. I tripple chain engines because I've has chains snap. Fortunately I had second and third chains that were loose and were there as safety nets. Redundancy breads safety. Just ask the poor guy I just patched up for open fractures because he jacked up his car and did not use safety chocks or jackstands.
GREAT LONG WEEKEND PROJECT!!! Have fun!
Best,
T
Spitfirebuilder
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Thanks all! I do believe I’m going to drop the oil pan (as I have to remove the starter anyway) and take a gander. If I find anything interesting I’ll post some pics.
Crapgame
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Speaking of which, is there a trick or preferred method to unbolting the curbside engine mount to block bolts?