• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

To buy or not to buy? M211

drlogistics

Member
109
0
16
Location
Lapeer, MI
I would also say GO FOR IT. I just bought my first MV. A 1952 xm211. And I also got it for a steal. I bought it from a fellow SS member in the classifieds section. I hadn't even seen it in person. I figured if it was not salvageable then I could part it out and at least break even. It will soon be my daily driver!! So roll the dice and welcome to the addiction.
 
308
11
16
Location
Bear Creek PA
Give in, Buy that truck, Trust me, they are really fun to work on, parts are cheap, they can burn crappy salvage yard gas if your worried about fuel costs and they are tougher and better looking than the M35A2. Look at the photos.
Here is my 1952 M211 next to my 1967 M35A2
 

Attachments

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Ok, sounds great. I'm a lot more confident about buying the truck now. I am going to try to get up
There by next weekend and bring it home. I must admit I have been thinking about this thing pretty obsessively lately. I am itching to get up there and see it. Speaking of snow, are plows available for them? Where would you even go about getting one?
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Ok, sounds great. I'm a lot more confident about buying the truck now. I am going to try to get up
There by next weekend and bring it home. I must admit I have been thinking about this thing pretty obsessively lately. I am itching to get up there and see it. Speaking of snow, are plows available for them? Where would you even go about getting one?
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
So I read through some of this thread and found it really interesting. But there is some things I don't understand, that may very well have been answered in the 31 pages of thread. First off... A 6.2 over a 6.5? I am a Chevy guy all the way, but I would never consider a 6.2 bulletproof. He said he didn't want a 6.5 because of electronics, but up till 93, the 6.5s were all mechanical, and IMO a far better motor than the 6.2, plus they come with a turbo and get a little better mileage. But if I was going to swap in a diesel motor, I would go with a (duramax if I had lots of money) Isuzu motor. The NPR motors are really common and they bolt right up to GM trans. They also are great on fuel. Or if I was going for power I would go for one of the CATs out of an old Chevy big truck.
The second thing I really don't get is why anyone would put a 700r4 in anything bigger than a v6 camaro. I can't imagine that trans will ever hold up to that truck considering they struggle with a 1/2 ton truck that pulls anything on a regular basis. I would go with a TH350 or 400 because they are a much more bulletproof trans. I don't think you could even get a 6.2 with a 700r4 behind it. But perhaps there is something with this truck that I am missing.

Either way, I would like to keep the original motor/trans in the one I'm going to buy providing they hold out. But I am always curious about projects like that. Thanks for the link. I'll have to go read through more of it when I have more time and maybe can answer some of these questions.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,886
1,474
113
Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
Get it, you'll regret not doing so. Got my 54 XM-211 for alot more in worse shape and don't regret it at all. it'll be a labor of love getting it running and driving again. It's my extreme long term project (plan on 5 years). My M35's and m1009 get the parades and displays for now, better shape and easy to get parts for. loads of fun to drive. M-211 will be just as fun and will be a perfect tribute to my Dad. BTW, no mudding for any of my trucks...no mud in this part of Wyoming 11 months of the year.:evil:
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Ok, so update on the title:

The guy says the DMV won't give him one. I called the DMV, and they made it sound like its some huge, nearly impossible process... So anyone have any ideas? I still plan on buying the truck. How difficult is it to find parts trucks with a title for a few hundred bucks? Or are there any vehicles I could pass off a title for? Anyone have Advice on this?
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,886
1,474
113
Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
Ok, so update on the title:

The guy says the DMV won't give him one. I called the DMV, and they made it sound like its some huge, nearly impossible process... So anyone have any ideas? I still plan on buying the truck. How difficult is it to find parts trucks with a title for a few hundred bucks? Or are there any vehicles I could pass off a title for? Anyone have Advice on this?
Over the years I learned the lesson very well; nothing gets done until you try. I can speak for two states, Oregon and Wyoming and they're very similar. There is a definite written procedure to obtain a replacement title. The difficult part is having the DMV research the VIN and determine if there is a lien holder or if the truck was actually stolen. Again,my experience, if the truck is clean, no worries. There is a time "penalty", which just means you have to wait longer for a title than normal procedures. Your state should have some means of doing a VIN verification. Here, I call the County Sheriff, they send out a deputy. Deputy has the form, writes down all the pertinant information and runs the VIN right then and there. I know immediately whether i have a good or bad truck/car. Easy. Go on line to your DMV site. Check around for replacement title procedures. They may be jerking your chain just cause they can. Good luck, don't give up. Plan B is to buy a junker with a good frame and get busy swapping parts. What to do with the left overs? Don't know.
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Thanks for the info. I am looking for some truck that may have a title. I'll call one of my cop friends and maybe he can spread some insight on local procedure. I tried getting the guy to come down even more on the price due to the title issue, but he is stuck hard and fast at $1100. Stupid red tape! Always making life miserable.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,886
1,474
113
Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
Thanks for the info. I am looking for some truck that may have a title. I'll call one of my cop friends and maybe he can spread some insight on local procedure. I tried getting the guy to come down even more on the price due to the title issue, but he is stuck hard and fast at $1100. Stupid red tape! Always making life miserable.
You got that right! Red tape's sole purpose IS to make life miserable. My solution...never give in and never give up. The *******s want to weed out the weak by throwing out all the tape. I live to the motto of a teflon duck. Swim through life and let nothing stick. Torque them off...go for it and win. They don't know how to handle a person who won't accept the answer no. The answer is yes, you CAN get a title. Again, don't give up and don't give in and keep looking for that frame that has a title. Search the local junk yards, that's where I found mine with a clean title. And yes it was a clean one, not a salvage or wrecked or whatever it's called. If there's one, there's always another out there waiting.

Dang, i coulda been a cheer leader. Nah, don't have the legs....:shock:
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
I have a bodyshop friend who rebuilds trucks and has them inspected and titled. He has done it, vehicle gets inspected and new title as rebuilt or salvaged. Check with a local rebuilder. Also check with a salvage yard or towing company who picks up abandoned vehicles for the police. They usually have the ability to get titles for abandond cars in lieu of payment.

Watch craigslist. There is always someone who is selling a truck or will part one out. You don't have to haul the truck 2,000 miles, only buy the title and dataplate.

None wants a salvaged title either, but it would not drive any different :)

Just buy the thing!
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
You got that right! Red tape's sole purpose IS to make life miserable. My solution...never give in and never give up. The *******s want to weed out the weak by throwing out all the tape. I live to the motto of a teflon duck. Swim through life and let nothing stick. Torque them off...go for it and win. They don't know how to handle a person who won't accept the answer no. The answer is yes, you CAN get a title. Again, don't give up and don't give in and keep looking for that frame that has a title. Search the local junk yards, that's where I found mine with a clean title. And yes it was a clean one, not a salvage or wrecked or whatever it's called. If there's one, there's always another out there waiting.

Dang, i coulda been a cheer leader. Nah, don't have the legs....:shock:
You don't have the legs but you sure have a way with motivation!!

I appreciate your drive "jeffhuey1n", awesome.

________________________________________
Dave
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
OK, The truck weighs 13,000+ pounds. Probably just over 10k without the bed and winch.
That is 5 tons. Scrap is $210/ton today =$1,050 :shock:
The bed is a gift to a contractor on craigslist at =$500
I'd be happy to pay you just for the pto =$150
I just paid for a winch only at =$300
A good exhaust manifold on ebay will bring =$150
Good carb on ebay =$50
Good fuel pump on ebay, easily =$100

I could go on, and on, and on, and on....

He ain't goin' down in price.

And most importantly,

DO NOT TELL ME WHERE IT IS! :drool:
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Well, I bought it. 3 hours north of me, took a while to get transportation set up, but she is home. I am posting some pictures

So here is all about it:
1) runs good. There is an electric fuel pump on it, I think it gets to much and loads up sometimes, but no big deal. Carb spring broke today... now its stuck wide open, Ill be going to get a new one tomorrow.

2) Trans is messed up, 1st and second work fine, have not gotten it to go into 3rd or 4th. When its in park (or neutral, not sure, just all the way forward) it still will slowly lurch forward if revved up (sometimes, not all the time).

3) hi-lo work good, and she CRAWLS

4) so the lever on the floor to engage front axle, does it need to be pulled up or down to engage it?

5) Blackout lights, headlights, air horn, windshield wipers, etc... all work. One tail light is out, wiring is broken up pretty bad, but no big deal.

6) haven't even put brake fluid in it, don't know if they work, guess it really doesn't matter as quick as she slows down.

7) Holy crap there are a lot of drive shafts under that thing!

8) Gas tank is full of rust, running on a boat tank till I stick the pressure washer in there and clean it out good.

9) could use tires, and the studs are bent... don't know how, but they are.

10) pretty much rust free, all original, 26,k miles, the original olive paint is still underneath, and possibly some red paint, maybe a fire truck at one point? no idea. The cab seems to have a lot of rivets in it? maybe its supposed to come off and someone decided to rivet it on? not entirely sure. But all in all, I am very impressed with the truck. Went and hill climbed a tad with it today, as long as you can clear the bumper it seems to do alright. lol. Well, there ya go. tell me what you think!
 

Attachments

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
M211 no longer a question

That is a great find, can't wait to see "what are you going to do with that".

Start with air, you're missing a hose from carb to air filter and that's probably where you'll start before you breathe in a bug.

Then all you need to do is:
Fuel system, plugs/wires/condensors4X, points,engine oil, trani oil/ filter, cooling system, brakes, steering, suspension, rubber, lights, gauges, seals, bearings, u-joints, diffs, seat and a stereo.

It's an oil-bath air-breather so check the Tm's for removal, makes it easier to clean-up if you know how to do it. Make sure it's hooked up with filters or motor go bye bye.

It may not change gears for several reasons, oil level for one. Once you've gone through it and treated her to a manual maintenance then one can diagnose. High RPM on 2nd to 3rd may get it to shift.....or blow your motor so set it up as per specs first.

Excellent purchase!
 

jaw818

New member
19
0
0
Location
pine city MN
Thank you!

Brand new oil in it, and brand new gear lube. Trans is full. All the diffs have been lubed up. The ignition system I suppose could use an overhaul, but its working alright. Have no idea where to get that hose, unless I fab my own up, and is there any way to change it over to a paper air filter?

like I said, all but 1 light works, including blackouts. All the gauges work good.. Speedo bounces under 10 in low, but that is to be expected.

The fuel system needs a little help. Some info on the original fuel pump would be good. no idea where the thing is or why its not working, but in the event I want to try out that in-cab snorkel thing (highly unlikely) the electric pump probably wont fare so well. Mostly I just want to get the right fuel pressure.

A stereo would be nice... need something 24volt I would guess?

Also probably should fab a heater in it for winter driving, but thats pretty easy too.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
OK. I'm gonna PM you my phone number. Call me if you have questions. I'm 17 miles from Winona and know where to find anything you need.

The front axle has a sprauge clutch like a starter drive does. 6% slippage and it works itself. The lever in the floor is engage (up) and disengage (down) for the transfer case. Basically, both rears are always driven together. They bind like a bugger when you try to roll it and turn a corner even with the lever down.

Shifting- the carburetor governor also controls the shifts. air leaks and bad diaphram may cause problems. Look into a rebuild kit. It is a Holley 885FFG.

Speedo- remove the cable, clean and lubricate and reinstall. Binding can cause bounce.

I don't understand the "rivits" -post pics!

Nice find! keep asking, we can help.:beer:
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Look at your fuel pump. Is it 12 volt wired off just 1 battery? You could do the same with the stereo.

Start with the boat tank and get the fuel pump below the tank, but close to the tank. They suck poorly and push fuel slightly better. I suspect it loads up due to a carb issue, think of the junk in your tank. Add a BIG inline filter or two before and after the pump. The only reason I'm suggesting this is because I know you want to play with it before you fix it correctly. Then search back a few threads for info on where to find rebuild stuff for the pump.

Some may not agree, but that pump won't build enough pressure to push a good needle off the seat when it should be closed.

There are carb kits on Ebay. do a google search for Holley 885 FFG and you will find the rebuild book for download free!

More later!
 
Top