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Don’t push the Red button.
Start with fluid level and replacing tranny filter.
Start with fluid level and replacing tranny filter.
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To get my HMMWV (M1097A2) in good running order... need help.
- Thread starter DEA AK
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DEA AK
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Appreciate the reply, I haven't noticed any lights so I will have to make sure I check. That wire was corroded so I might have to peel it WAY back to see if there's any good metal in there. Thank you.
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You did connect the wire to the red button to 12V yes?? not 24V
DEA AK
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DREDnot
I connected the largest of the three wires to the rear battery's positive (+) post, following DREDnot's recommendation. This action successfully enabled the transmission to shift gears. Before connecting this wire, the transmission exhibited loud noises and likely remained stuck in a specific gear, possibly due to limp mode. In the next step, I plan to trim back the larger wire to locate a corrosion-free section and ensure a secure connection.
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Check that trans light, it will help to let you know if you have a power issue, too bad you were not paying attention when the trans was working to insure you have a working light.
By now you should be gathering all the filters and fluid for a complete change of all the fluids and filters on your truck, really should have been done before the joy riding began, you have no idea how old, how many miles or even if it had the correct fluids to begin with.
By now you should be gathering all the filters and fluid for a complete change of all the fluids and filters on your truck, really should have been done before the joy riding began, you have no idea how old, how many miles or even if it had the correct fluids to begin with.
DEA AK
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I have changed all fluids and replaced the filters. From the heated hubs to the power steering. Thank you
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How did the trans fluid look? was there much "mud" in the pan?
DEA AK
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Is this filter supposed to be capped off or directed someplace else? Based off the stained area around it and even up on the wall, it seems like it spits up fuel???
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Its a vent for fuel tank...leave open....but you should get a new one...look up { 33449 filter }.
DEA AK
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Great - thank you, oh and by the way I see that your signature says "lots of parts," do you have an ebaa page or anything for those? Thank you
DEA AK
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Does anyone know what type of flare is on the brake lines? This was my first brake line bend and install so its my first time learning about the different types of flares and tubes. I got the only type available to me which was coated steel but I have had to really tighten it and it still seems like its dripping every so often. I obviously don't want to over tighten. Thank you
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You should buy and install the correct parts, your life may depend on it.
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If you have to ask, that is very concerning.
Stainless steel requires a single flare. Other materials require a double flare.
I’m with Mogman on this
DEA AK
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Disregard...
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If it were me, I would:
1. Open up TM 9-2320-280-10
2. Turn to page 2-126
3. Read the instructions on Towing Operations
The very first warning in the Towing Operations would be one I paid a lot of attention to. I would also read the entire Towing Operation section.
Most everything you want to know is in the TM.
1. Open up TM 9-2320-280-10
2. Turn to page 2-126
3. Read the instructions on Towing Operations
The very first warning in the Towing Operations would be one I paid a lot of attention to. I would also read the entire Towing Operation section.
Most everything you want to know is in the TM.
DEA AK
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You're absolutely right. Thank you
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DEA AK
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DEA AK
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After looking around, I have discovered that I am missing speedometer parts... the pic shown is the big hole in my case and I am wondering, in addition to the obvious parts missing; 1, 24, 23, 22, 21, 20, 19, and 18 could anyone tell me if part number 17 is actually in there? As you can see from the terrible picture, there is a metal shaft of some sort. It would be great if 17 is in there - it would be just one less part I'd have to buy :-/
Thank you
Thank you
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DREDnot
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If I recall correctly, 21-17 will usually be found as an assembly. 17 will slip over that shaft in the pic and the gear end of 17 will mesh with a helix on the output shaft. There are usually different color coded/gear tooth counts of the 17 part that correspond to gear ratios to calibrate the speedometer so you cant use just any one. There is also a clocking index on the 19 part and the case that sets the contact depth of the meshing teeth depending on the tooth count/ gear diameter.
DEA AK
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lots of good info, I appreciate the response.
thank you