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to turbo or not to turbo

ken

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I picked up a 998 with a bad 6.2. I have a spare 6.2 on a stand from a CUVC that I can put the Humvee parts on and get it up and running. I have the chance to get a GEP 6.5 with a turbo. I wanted to just strip it to the long block and put the N/A parts on and go. But I realized the heads were different. Will the turbo down pipe work on my exuast? Or is the whole exaust different? Would I have to do a body lift to clear anything? Can I use the same air filter housing with a new intake hose? After searching for these parts I came up empty. Where can I find them? Thanks,
 

erasedhammer

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So you have the opportunity to get a Turbo GEP 6.5 and want to strip it down and turn it into a NA? Why? Cause I'll take the turbo parts off ya if you don't want them. :-D

I believe that the exhaust and intake manifolds are different. There are probably more things that differ, others can comment on that.
 

ken

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I'd like to keep it somewhat period correct. Yes I know the manifolds are different. But I thought the heads have a different angle on the intake side and so the N/A intake manifold won't work. Is this correct? If not I'll put the N/A parts on and make a "detuned"6.5.
 

erasedhammer

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I'd like to keep it somewhat period correct. Yes I know the manifolds are different. But I thought the heads have a different angle on the intake side and so the N/A intake manifold won't work. Is this correct? If not I'll put the N/A parts on and make a "detuned"6.5.
Cool, the intake is indeed different. I thought I saw somewhere that maybe the heads were slightly different, but I'm not the person to talk to about that

I'd say get the GEP engine and remove the turbo and detune it. GEP blocks are much better than the 6.2.
I'll buy the turbo parts you take off as well. I'm looking to throw a turbo on my 6.2 and I know it can be done with the turbo parts from a 6.5.
 

jake-cutter

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Did you find the GEP 6.5 Turbo in the Houston area? When I was looking for any HMMWV engine I came up empty on finding an engine local or even a shop which is why I got a 6.5 NA GEP coming from Southern Metals and it should be here in a week or two.
 

ken

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Erasedhamer, I have a complete turbo set up for sale in the classified section.
ARI, Is the engine NOS?
Jake, No the engine isn't local.
I've searched some pics online. It looks like the intake to head bolts are at a different angle. Or maybe there is something I can't see in pics. Does anyone have close up pics of a turbo engine?
 

erasedhammer

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Erasedhamer, I have a complete turbo set up for sale in the classified section.
ARI, Is the engine NOS?
Jake, No the engine isn't local.
I've searched some pics online. It looks like the intake to head bolts are at a different angle. Or maybe there is something I can't see in pics. Does anyone have close up pics of a turbo engine?
Link to that thread pls? I'd be interested.
 

ken

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I'm not computer savy enough to make links. It's in the classified section under parts for sale. should be on the first page.
 

TOBASH

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These vehicles do not have a true "period correct" value. So many swaps over the years by the military made some vehicles unrecognizable.

Turbo is better in mountains and such. Add water injection and you will have low EGT's and improved performance.

I'm looking to add the turbo engine to my vehicle, as I drive mountains and such.

I think you're overthinking and wasting $$$.

If this engine works, is cheap, and is easily accessible... use it.

T
 
Last edited:

erasedhammer

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These vehicles do not have a true "period correct" value. So many swaps over the years by the military made some vehicles unrecognizable.

Turbo is better in mountains and such. Add water injection and you will have low EGT's and improved performance.

I'm looking to add the turbo engine to my vehicle, as I drive mountains and such.

I think you're overthinking and wasting $$$.

If your engine works, leave it.

T
I think it's less of a period correct thing as a certain model correct thing. While it may run a lot better, the m1025s never had a turbo on them... as far as I know. Just one example.
 

TOBASH

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Maybe erased, but is it REALLY that important???

Hope you're still takin' air in your beast.

T
 

erasedhammer

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Maybe erased, but is it REALLY that important???

Hope you're still takin' air in your beast.

T
Well, its not important to me... But I can see how people on here that buy a humvee for the historical aspect would want to do something like this.

I might get air one of these days if I take another "jeep hill" around the cascades and flip over backwards... I swear those things keep getting steeper.
 

ken

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My cheapest route is to swap in the 6.2 from a CUCV I already have. I already have a spare engine gasket kit. I can swap the Humvee parts on to the long block in just a few hours. I'm searching for exaust and intake parts for the turbo engine to do this swap If I decide to go this route. If I remove the turbo I will need new heads. At $600 each. I also need to figure out if there are any different parts for the deep water fording kit to work.
 

86humv

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My cheapest route is to swap in the 6.2 from a CUCV I already have. I already have a spare engine gasket kit. I can swap the Humvee parts on to the long block in just a few hours. I'm searching for exaust and intake parts for the turbo engine to do this swap If I decide to go this route. If I remove the turbo I will need new heads. At $600 each. I also need to figure out if there are any different parts for the deep water fording kit to work.
I have new 6.5NA heads available @ 250 ea.
 

Wire Fox

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My cheapest route is to swap in the 6.2 from a CUCV I already have. I already have a spare engine gasket kit. I can swap the Humvee parts on to the long block in just a few hours. I'm searching for exaust and intake parts for the turbo engine to do this swap If I decide to go this route. If I remove the turbo I will need new heads. At $600 each. I also need to figure out if there are any different parts for the deep water fording kit to work.
Major components that are "integral" to the engine would just be the dipstick & tube, the vented power steering cap, and the vented CDR valve. There's of course also the driver's selector valve, transmission dipstick, water sensor cup (and bracket), air box dust cap and intake elbow, vent lines & connectors, and the intake/exhaust stacks. I don't think there's anything actually critically different about the engines that makes one more suitable for water fording than the other.
 

Barrman

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Ken,
The GEP NA heads are the square stamped pre-cup and the intake manifold bolts are 90° to the intake port surface. The GEP turbo heads are the same casting number but have the diamond pre-cup and the intake bolts are 60° to the intake port surface. A CUCV NA intake can be modified to fit the 60° heads in a few hours time with a die grinder. I did it a year ago.

The top of the block where the turbo bolts in and the oil passages need to be plugged on the turbo block. I don't know anything about that process.

If you are just wanting to use the truck with the museum and associated drives. Putting the 6.2 in and being done will be very easy compared to re-inventing the wheel turning the probably expensive GEP turbo engine into a non turbo with no real gain for what your uses are. Just my thoughts.
 

ken

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Hey Tim, Long time no see. Done any flying lately? Yea I'm leaning tward just swapping in the 6.2. The appeal was having a brand new engine with zero miles and probably never having to worry about it in my lifetime. I'm going to pull the oil pan on the 6.2 I have on the stand and look for cracks. If it's in good shape I can spend that money on paint and restoration. Do you know if the Humvee oil pan will work on the older 6.2. I'm thinking the 998's engine has a 1 piece rear seal and maybe the oil pan mounting surface may be different?
 
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