Toe Jam

[Ajax MD]

I'm trying to make a minor adjustment to the toe-out of a rear wheel. I've read the process in the -2.
The radius rod clamps are loosened and I've cleaned and lubed the adjusting threads but the sleeve is really stuck.

Am I missing something? Is applying heat a bad idea?

 

[frank8003]

Like the title!

 

[twisted60]

Had a similar issue, clamps loose but would not turn,,,heat to the rescue, heat, PB Blaster, heat and a big pipe wrench... I had a helper standing by with a fire ext just in case... No risk no glory

 

[Ajax MD]

Had a similar issue, clamps loose but would not turn,,,heat to the rescue, heat, PB Blaster, heat and a big pipe wrench... I had a helper standing by with a fire ext just in case... No risk no glory

Ok, thanks. I was concerned about the rubber bits at the end. I do have a big pipe wrench. The radius arm doesn't appear rusted but the threads were full of crud. I'll heat it up and put the pipe wrench on it and see what I can get.

 

[twisted60]

Ok, thanks. I was concerned about the rubber bits at the end. I do have a big pipe wrench. The radius arm doesn't appear rusted but the threads were full of crud. I'll heat it up and put the pipe wrench on it and see what I can get.

The radius rods have a groove/cannnel at each end where the clamps go, clean groove and soak with your favorite penetrate, heat (I used a propane torch with map gas), soak again, heat again. Try turning both directions just a little to break the bond, once the bond is broken soak again and she’ll come right off. Take your time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ajax MD]

@twisted60 Awesome, thanks.

I have the same kind of torch but I'm really an amateur at using it. I have difficulty judging the amount of heat it's producing. I saw the channels and cleaned them out. I'll keep soaking and I'll try the heat carefully.

 

[Coug]

With just propane/MAPP gas, you're not going to be able to heat it up enough to damage it unless you really screw up. Just too much mass.
Just aim the torch at it for a while until it's somewhat hot, then spray more oil on it (some people prefer to use wax instead). The cooling action of the oil on the hot metal will help draw the oil into the threads.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I would add after one tears it all apart... Wire brush all the threads, blow it out and anti seize them up. Cranking on them with a pipe wench is one thing then OK.

More to know than toe with the HumV. Proper toe doesn't make it go in the right direction either.

Research thrust line >> https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/suspension/understanding-thrust-angle/ Google others too.

IMO for general hobby use and loading, one needs to get at the camber and caster (shims), then toe to maximize tire wear and handling. It can be done in the driveway with patience and a study up on the geometry involved.

By myself took two days of pulling shims, shooting lines. A bit of back and forth, to dial it in. I don't see how any shop would / could mess with one for cheap. Simple nuts, bolts and shims in hard places. Learned a lot, saved big bucks.

Make it nice and right, clean, paint and tight, CAMO

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Adjusted with a pipe wrench, heat and long breaker bar

 

[papakb]

Kroil is your friend here! Best penetrating oil I've ever found.

 

[Ajax MD]

Yup, got that. Ok, RWH says a cheater bar on the pipe wrench is OK. That's helpful, along with the heat. I wasn't sure how beefy the walls of the radius tube were, and just how "Mongo" I could safely get when trying to turn the tube.

I've been stuck late at work this week, so no chance to try any of this stuff.