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Torque Multiplier wheel Wrench Help

blisters13

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Beaumont in SoCal
You can do it like the truck tire shops and tighten the crap out of lug nuts with big 1" drive air impact guns; the first time I took off tires on my deuce I used a 3/4" breaker bar, socket, and 8' cheater pipe and I still had to jump on the pipe to break most of the outer nuts loose. This is not professional, IMO.

The manual states approximately 430 ft-lbs outer and 375 ft-lbs inner (I'm at work now, will verify and correct tonight).

I use a 3:1 torque multiplier every time; I don't see how using a multiplier is bad for the nuts as long as you use a properly-set torque wrench when tightening.

I keep in mind that my tire/wheel assemblies are very large and heavy and if one comes off on the highway it could kill someone. If one comes off the front, it could kill me and anyone with me. If either happens (and I live) I will be able to look anyone right in the eye and say, "I did it right every time with the right tools."

....Just my two cents
 
Last edited:

Aernan

Member
510
19
18
Location
San Jose/California
You can do it like the truck tire shops and tighten the crap out of lug nuts with big 1" drive air impact guns; the first time I took off tires on my deuce I used a 3/4" breaker bar, socket, and 8' cheater pipe and I still had to jump on the pipe to break most of the outer nuts loose. This is not professional, IMO.

The manual states approximately 430 ft-lbs outer and 375 ft-lbs inner (I'm at work now, will verify and correct tonight).

I use a 3:1 torque multiplier every time; I don't see how using a multiplier is bad for the nuts as long as you use a properly-set torque wrench when tightening.

I keep in mind that my tire/wheel assemblies are very large and heavy and if one comes off on the highway it could kill someone. If one comes off the front, it could kill me and anyone with me. If either happens (and I live) I will be able to look anyone right in the eye and say, "I did it right every time with the right tools."

....Just my two cents
From what I am reading using a torque multiplier applies linear torque and you can get a calibrated torqued value for any nut you put on with it. It's functionally equivalent of using an extension to get enough torque. To make this work correctly you need the torque table for the gear ratio of your torque multiplier.
 

Aernan

Member
510
19
18
Location
San Jose/California
You can do it like the truck tire shops and tighten the crap out of lug nuts with big 1" drive air impact guns; the first time I took off tires on my deuce I used a 3/4" breaker bar, socket, and 8' cheater pipe and I still had to jump on the pipe to break most of the outer nuts loose. This is not professional, IMO.

The manual states approximately 430 ft-lbs outer and 375 ft-lbs inner (I'm at work now, will verify and correct tonight).

I use a 3:1 torque multiplier every time; I don't see how using a multiplier is bad for the nuts as long as you use a properly-set torque wrench when tightening.

I keep in mind that my tire/wheel assemblies are very large and heavy and if one comes off on the highway it could kill someone. If one comes off the front, it could kill me and anyone with me. If either happens (and I live) I will be able to look anyone right in the eye and say, "I did it right every time with the right tools."

....Just my two cents
Regarding the tire shops. If the nut is rusted on I can imagine it taking a huge amount of force to get it free. I would use Kroil to break up the rust then whatever tools at hand to break it free.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
post #39
Crud, mung, corrosion, dirt, yucky stuff, and failed stretched threads on my truck lugs caused me to have to use my weight at the end of ten feet of extension on the torque multiplier to get the fasteners off the first time.
Torque specs go with clean dry, or special lubricated, or specific lubrication of new fasteners.
My truck wheels fasteners are correct as finished when I put the wheels back on.
My truck wheels fasteners were ANIMALED ON to H#*L before I got there.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
This is very easy...torque wrench and torque multiplier is all you need. I use one of the 4:1 torque multipliers out of the Robo-impact kits and a click type 1/2" drive 150 ftlb bi-directional torque wrench.

Some simple math tells you what the torque setting for the torque wrench.

Example:
Specified torque: 500 ftlbs
Torque multiplier ratio: 4:1 or output torque is 4 times input torque.
Take specified torque and divide by the multiplier ratio.

500÷4=125

With these numbers the torque wrench should be set to 125 ftlbs to achieve the 500 ftlbs specified torque. My torque wrench maximum is 150 ftlbs so this is easily achieved.

Don't forget that the driver's side nuts are left hand thread. You'll need a torque wrench that is able to torque in both directions to do both sides. Most torque wrenches only torque right hand fasteners.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
For all you guys who want to use your torque multiplier to put the lug-nuts back on, just remember it must be held perfectly straight and level or your torque will be off. We do use the torque multipliers at the bus barns to reinstall differential yoke nuts which can be in excess of 2,000 ft Ibs. But you must prepare and install holders for the multiplier.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
You can do it like the truck tire shops and tighten the crap out of lug nuts with big 1" drive air impact guns; the first time I took off tires on my deuce I used a 3/4" breaker bar, socket, and 8' cheater pipe and I still had to jump on the pipe to break most of the outer nuts loose. This is not professional, IMO.

The manual states approximately 430 ft-lbs outer and 375 ft-lbs inner (I'm at work now, will verify and correct tonight).

I use a 3:1 torque multiplier every time; I don't see how using a multiplier is bad for the nuts as long as you use a properly-set torque wrench when tightening.

I keep in mind that my tire/wheel assemblies are very large and heavy and if one comes off on the highway it could kill someone. If one comes off the front, it could kill me and anyone with me. If either happens (and I live) I will be able to look anyone right in the eye and say, "I did it right every time with the right tools."

....Just my two cents

Having seen two front wheels come off, (one from a semi-truck and the other off a bus) both vehicles survived and there was no injuries. That being said it could have caused a severe accident and death. Both actually came off because the bearing jam nuts where not secured and the whole wheel assembly came off. I have never seen a wheel come off the hub due to improper lug-nut torque though. Yes I've seen loose wheels and broken studs by the hundreds but never the whole wheel coming off. The vibration alone would put you in the ditch first.
Like I mentioned earlier, if your going to use a torque multiplier to reinstall lug-nuts then the multiplier must be secured properly. If it is not the torque will be off and it's no better then just using a long breaker bar to tighten the lug-nuts.
If your going to be playing with big boy toys then get the big boy tools.
Just a side note. Most tire shops today will use a torque wrench to set final torque. It's all about liability. If they change out a tire and it comes off or breaks the studs and the wheel comes loose and causes an accident, they are liable for all damages. That's why at the transit agency all wheels are torqued, then a week later they are all torqued again and those little pointers are installed on every nut. Also on every inspection the lug-nuts are torqued. Now is there rust on the studs and nuts ? That can cause some real nasty problems trying to get the lug-nuts to come loose.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
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