• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Towing Drash Trailer home

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
124
81
28
Location
Port Angeles, WA
So I won a trailer, this time a DHS DRASH unit (8340014594352), trailer appears to be made in 2007 by NorthEast Fabricators, Walton New York. By the way, any idea where I can find a TM for the trailer and/or Isuzu generator set?

Anyhow, yard is about 100 miles away, and I was going to drive down and pick it up, just like I did with my 1102. Once hooked up, I was going to check tires, hook up lights with adapter and LED bulbs (also have back up tow lights) and 5 miles into it check the bearing temp. My other worry was the surge breaks. System "appears" OK in pics but I was worried if it started to drag. Does anyone know if there is a way to "lock out" this particular surge set up?
Drash.jpg

drash1.jpg
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,976
4,360
113
Location
Olympia/WA
so you won it.
I placed bids on both of them, didn't win either. I just want the chassis from one.

Anyway, good luck finding any type of manuals, I haven't really found anything much that is useful.

Just be aware without tents on the back it's going to be pretty tongue heavy, especially if your hitch is lower than the trailer sitting level. I'm talking like 600 lbs of tongue weight, possibly more.

As for the surge brakes, I've never had issues with them dragging, but as it sits you'd be illegal to tow it without them working in this state, and as we're supposed to have rain the next few days/weeks roads are going to be wet. That much tongue weight will lighten up your steer axle a bit (I don't know what you're driving so might not be an issue) so just take it slow and easy.
 
Last edited:

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
124
81
28
Location
Port Angeles, WA
Yes! This is was the first one out of the two. I still haven't decided what I am going to do long term with it, but I think it might make a nice little utility trailer to add to my collection, if I decide to take the ECU and Genset off. Is that what you were thinking of doing too?

All the bits are sort of bonus, I already have 2 1/2 MEP803A for the house. a powerplant trailer and an 1102, to complement my 1123 Hmmwvs.

The Isuzu genset looks interesting. 3 phase 18 or 20kw?

Thank you for the tip, I might bring a couple of spare wheels/tires and throw them in the back, to try and equalize it a bit.

For the Hitch, I use a 7.5" Drop/Rise adapter and that seems to help a lot. (https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Pintle-Tri-Ball-Adjustable-Lunette/dp/B00OKYSWWU)

so you won it.
I placed bids on both of them, didn't win either. I just want the chassis from one.

Anyway, good luck finding any type of manuals, I haven't really found anything much that is useful.

Just be aware without tents on the back it's going to be pretty tongue heavy, especially if your hitch is lower than the trailer sitting level.
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,976
4,360
113
Location
Olympia/WA
For this trailer it could be either a 20kw or a 33/35kw, but definitely 3 phase. The one we had in Korea this size was a 12 ton ECU and 35kw generator. I towed it with a 5 ton.

I have one of the smaller chassis I turned into a surrogate drash setup, an 802A and a 3 ton nordicair with 1/3 of the heat coils disabled. Still has the 50 gallon tank in it, so 100 hours of run time for the gen.

you'll want a good 500 lbs or so of weight tossed in the back if possible to make the tongue better. That 600 lbs i estimated might have been a bit on the conservative side, even with the tents you're looking 3-400 lbs tongue weight with military loadout.

That hitch will definitely help with the leveling.

When I did a quick walk around these last time I was at the yard I didn't notice anything wrong with the suspension or brake system, but I didn't give it a very close look either.


Now we just have to get you out to one of the local events. Next one that's definite is a new years beach drive out at ocean shores the morning of January 1. It's not posted on the facebook group page yet but we do it every year.
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,976
4,360
113
Location
Olympia/WA
but to answer the question, yeah, I was going to strip everything off and turn it into a utility type trailer. The hole where the gen sits will need to be filled, but it already has bars along the side/top to make a decent start for walls, or just cut them all off and make it a flatbed. It's rated for 4200 lbs behind a HMMWV, or 6k lbs behind a larger truck. Axle is at least an 8k rated one, that 6k rating from the military is for cross country so highway use it's going to be a bit higher.
 

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
124
81
28
Location
Port Angeles, WA
but to answer the question, yeah, I was going to strip everything off and turn it into a utility type trailer. The hole where the gen sits will need to be filled, but it already has bars along the side/top to make a decent start for walls, or just cut them all off and make it a flatbed. It's rated for 4200 lbs behind a HMMWV, or 6k lbs behind a larger truck. Axle is at least an 8k rated one, that 6k rating from the military is for cross country so highway use it's going to be a bit higher.
Perfect! I am glad I wasn't that far off, with what I was thinking of doing with it.
 

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
124
81
28
Location
Port Angeles, WA
I know my 24 bolt 37" Hmmwv runflats are about 170lbs a piece. I have two if those loose. Any idea how much a 12 bolt 37" runflat weigh? I know they are less, but how much? Figured, 3 tires would work...

For sure! My schedule doesn't always let me get away and play over the weekends, but I want to make it to a meet-up.


For this trailer it could be either a 20kw or a 33/35kw, but definitely 3 phase. The one we had in Korea this size was a 12 ton ECU and 35kw generator. I towed it with a 5 ton.

I have one of the smaller chassis I turned into a surrogate drash setup, an 802A and a 3 ton nordicair with 1/3 of the heat coils disabled. Still has the 50 gallon tank in it, so 100 hours of run time for the gen.

you'll want a good 500 lbs or so of weight tossed in the back if possible to make the tongue better. That 600 lbs i estimated might have been a bit on the conservative side, even with the tents you're looking 3-400 lbs tongue weight with military loadout.

That hitch will definitely help with the leveling.

When I did a quick walk around these last time I was at the yard I didn't notice anything wrong with the suspension or brake system, but I didn't give it a very close look either.


Now we just have to get you out to one of the local events. Next one that's definite is a new years beach drive out at ocean shores the morning of January 1. It's not posted on the facebook group page yet but we do it every year.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,501
1,682
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Very cool trailer!

You might trying calling the manufacturer and see if they'll give or sell you a manual on DVD, I imagine they were contractually required to provide one. If you know the contract number pass it along and I'll look it up.

Surge brakes tend to be trouble free, at least the two M1101s I've towed never had an issue with that system. Make sure you have a Plan B in case the wheels don't turn well (or at all). Scope out rental places like Ryder or U-haul nearby. You don't want to be looking and working against the yard's clock.
 

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
124
81
28
Location
Port Angeles, WA
Thank you!

That's an excellent idea! Any idea how I can find a contract number? I have a UIC number, NSN and Serial number. Trailer is a HP-4DL

(working on Plan B right now.. I do have $500 worth of RV/trailer tow coverage... Considering it's close, that should get it mostly home. I am looking at Ryder right now though...)

Very cool trailer!

You might trying calling the manufacturer and see if they'll give or sell you a manual on DVD, I imagine they were contractually required to provide one. If you know the contract number pass it along and I'll look it up.

Surge brakes tend to be trouble free, at least the two M1101s I've towed never had an issue with that system. Make sure you have a Plan B in case the wheels don't turn well (or at all). Scope out rental places like Ryder or U-haul nearby. You don't want to be looking and working against the yard's clock.
 
Last edited:

Poccur

Active member
205
141
43
Location
Roanoke, VA
So I won a trailer, this time a DHS DRASH unit (8340014594352), trailer appears to be made in 2007 by NorthEast Fabricators, Walton New York. By the way, any idea where I can find a TM for the trailer and/or Isuzu generator set?

Anyhow, yard is about 100 miles away, and I was going to drive down and pick it up, just like I did with my 1102. Once hooked up, I was going to check tires, hook up lights with adapter and LED bulbs (also have back up tow lights) and 5 miles into it check the bearing temp. My other worry was the surge breaks. System "appears" OK in pics but I was worried if it started to drag. Does anyone know if there is a way to "lock out" this particular surge set up?
View attachment 818110

View attachment 818111
According to your NSN that is an 18kW with an 8 ton ECU...

Don't see the lockout hole on that model, newer models have a pin hole on the brake actuator to lock off the surge for off road towing.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks