...Track on a trailer...

[jimk]

When I got my metal coil endorsement NY State gave me a book on cargo securement. Here is the on-line version (I could not find anything from Indiana).

There is also other useful info in the link below (right click save target as...) including a chart with various chain sizes, types and WLL ratings (see page 2.7) and angles required when using direct tiedowns (page 2.13)

http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/forms/mv79.pdf

New York requires that the securement system be capable of resisting a forward force of 80% cargo weight (.8G). As stalwart mentioned 3/8" grade70 (transport) has a WLL of 6,600lbs.If your load is 30,000lbs then 80% is 24,000 lbs. The rear chains (single string) must rate 12,000 lbs each so grade 80 1/2 inch chain would be the minimum acceptable chain (for the back). Additional lower grade/size/strings can do the job too (ex:- a pair of 3/8" grade 70 looped (double string) for 26,400lbs)

Chain marks may be embossed on every third or fourth link. The above link has a diagram of the marks.

Crossing chain is useful to increase the lateral angle. When you use outboard D rings and have narrow vehicle attachment points (as shown in your forward photo) you can, depending on the longitude angle, simply go directly to the nearest anchor avoiding crossed chains. You would want to cross chains in back using the vehicle anchor points shown and the narrow frame rails. The idea is to resist both motion to the side and fore/aft. If chains run longitudally they offer little resistance to sideways motion. If they run laterally the offer little resistance to fore/aft motion and other rigging may be required.

You may also want to check your tractor's rear axle weight when loaded and know the cargo height for low bridges. Check trailer tyre (British vehicle present) pressures often too.

Ratchet binders cost more but are better.

Your trailer needs some mudflaps.

Photo- non crossed, 3/8" grade 70 double string in front x2, non crossed 1/2" grade 70 single string in back x2. These rear chains have large safety hooks at each end. I attach them and drive forward. They fix the load in the same place every time. It's fast and very consistent so tongue and axle weights don't vary (this load is 95% or trailers rated capacity so location of weight is important). Mudflaps, a lockable lid added to utility tray so i don't get stranded if someone lifts some rigging at an event, (usually only used in NY.).

p.s. I welded on the four D rings being used because the ones that came with the trailer weren't in the best locations for my vehicle.

 

[airmech3839]

Just could not resist the temptation. It's my fault...I confess. YES...I did it because people need to see we are out there....and I was too lazy to keep hauling gas cans trying to fill the track up. See....? Youse' guy's made me do it.....!!!....LOL. Thanks to all who have posted. The info was invaluable and will make for a safer travel with the track. Have already got the wood chocks and buying more and better (grade 70) chain and binders. Will drive it off the trailer Sun (weather permitting),mount the FA M2HB and go driving and shooting at the 500 yd. range on site....(125+ acres). Pics will be forthcoming. Any otherr FV432 guys need manuals...? Just got a few in and will post in the classifieds in the AM.....

ohhhh no you are not gonna blow stuff up downrange without anyone around are you!!! Thats just not right man!!!! We will need pics and video!!!

 

[pwrwagonfire]

We used to run chock blocks on the front and back in addition to the chains when I loaded any Tracks on trailers..

+1!

 

[Jake0147]

49CFR393.102 contains a passage that you'll want to consider. If you're moving a cargo that they specifically regulate (such as cars...) then they are very, very specific as to the tie down ratings, locations, number, where to put them, what color they need to be, and which hand to use to wipe the sweat off your brow by the time you get it done to their liking. For general cargo (I havn;t yet found a section on moving tracked armor), then you are not locked into their tie down method. One chain toe downs are not illegal UNLESS your special cargo is specially regulated. (Disclaimer-The one chain method however can be screwed up if one tries hard enough, there's a lot of geometry to calculate in all directions before you can determine the strength requirements of the chain).

(c) Equivalent means of securement. The means of securing articles of cargo are considered to meet the performance requirements of this section if the cargo is:
(c)(1) Immobilized, such so that it cannot shift or tip to the extent that the vehicle''s stability or maneuverability is adversely affected; or
(c)(2) Transported in a sided vehicle that has walls of adequate strength, such that each article of cargo within the vehicle is in contact with, or sufficiently close to a wall or other articles, so that it cannot shift or tip to the extent that the vehicle''s stability or maneuverability is adversely affected; or
(c)(3) Secured in accordance with the applicable requirements of §§393.104 through 393.136.
​

I'd like to see it in person before I said anything that I wanted written in stone, but I'm going to throw out a couple of things that I see that I don't care for.


First, the chain rating. You have lots of options, it has to be rated for the load, 49CFR does offer guidelines as to how strong it must be in any given direction. You have angles involved, and they list G-forces (the number of times to multiply the cargo weight by) in any given direction, which must be accounted for by the sum of all of the tie down points. I won't tell you what you need, as you have lots of options that will require different strengths of chain. But you can figure what you need.


Second, the front tie down. The cross was with good intention I'm sure, but it's over done. You have the chain laying at far too shallow of an angle to the deck, and not enough of an angle towards the rear. the geometry there weakens the chain and pretty much precludes you from getting enough downward force.

The chain should go straight through the two tie downs. This will give you better forward/rearward control of your load, and bettere downward pressure of your load. It will also raise the point at which the chains cross (In this case they won't actually cross, the cross point will be at the height of the tie down point instead of below it). This will give you better lateral control of your load should it slip sideways. The added and sufficient downward pressure will prevent that in the first place however.
And the front binder- Yes, you did get the chains tight that way, however again with the geometry and the leverage. The smallest relative motion will allow that to become slackened, and that is the time that you risk a tiedown attachment failing (a chain coming loose). Load binders, spring type or otherwise are designed to work in line with the chain, and while your geometry does give it a unique ability to tighten beyond it's rating, it's already rated for the chain size, it will pull just as tight as it should when used inline.
For the back tie-down, the same applies to the binder. It is also not centered, in that the sideways "V" of each chain is not equal. I can not tell if they are two tie down points, or if it is one chain in a loop. If it is one chain in a loop, it's overal length will be adjusted by moving the come-along from centered to off-centered, and that leaves pretty much the fear of common sense as the only thing keeping the chain tight. The rear tie-down appears to be pretty much overall pretty much verticle when viewed in one photo, and leaned pretty good in another...? I'll bet my tired eyes are looking at the photo funny and the truth lies somewhere in between. That would be good, because I believe ti about matches the inclination of the front tie down. The reason that this angle is important is because verticle chains leave little to no forward/rearward control. It should be angled to the rear in an amount as similar as possible (bit opposite) to the front chain's angle in the same direction. They will constantly have to be loaded against each other, and any difference will result in overtightening one chain in order to reach an adequate tension on the other to get the needed downward force everywhere. Thus the chain size increases, sometimes dramatically. Side to side, what you do in the front is not relavent here, except that they both are shooting for the same ideal. What you have there is not controlling side to side motion, although the downward force is a lot better than the front, which in and of it's self is the biggest factor in controlling side to side motion.


Now, if that were held in place with adequate, suitable chocks at both ends, per 49CFR for legal reasons, and for practical reasons sturdy enough to hold a tank, and trapped so that they can not move or be moved, your options become much, much simpler. Instead of controlling three directions of movement at each tie down point, you are only controlling two, the third vector sum is not added in to calculations (because it is eliminated by the chocks, combined with adequate downward control) your chain size decreases dramatically, your flexibility in attachment locations increases substantially, and you still have to figure it through, but it's only downward and side to side, as the blocks very effectively contain the for and aft forces at hand.


If you want to continue to use the 3/8 inch chain, you certainly can, but you're going to need a LOT more of them. I would recommend highly looking onto four individual chains for four individual tie-downs, however as I said, the one chain method can be done CAREFULLY, and if both the trailer and the cargo tie-down points cooperate with you for a geometry that allows this to work. The binders HAVE TO be INLINE with the chain, and not across the loop for a tie-down such as in the rear.

 

[L999here]

...whew...

OK.....I digested all that in one reading....LOL. Yep...chocks,additional chain at tie-down points on each side and re-positioning of the rear chain/s to utilize the rear shackle tie-downs. Lot more info than when I started the post. Again,many thanks to all for the professional advise and especially the specs on types of chain and binders that should be used. I plan on using all 3/8th. chain...tie-downs at each corner.front and rear wood chocks on each track, and at least one tie-down on each side shackle. That should do it for any trip I plan. And...anything else besides the wide-load permits...? I'm still taking notes,guys....don't leave me hanging....LOL.....

 

[Ord22]

great info jim and jake!!!

 

[L999here]

No joy...

Drive and shoot fell thru this week end. Have to plan for another time.....no pics,no shooting....(sigh).....

 

[deuceman51]

I got the specs on the chain I have for sale and it's rated breaking strength is 16,500lbs. If anyone wants some I still have a few left.