Trailer supply rebuild?

[jkcondrey]

My trailer supply valve in the dash leaks a bit at startup then seals up. Has anyone rebuilt this before, or does everyone just order another?

 

[simp5782]

My trailer supply valve in the dash leaks a bit at startup then seals up. Has anyone rebuilt this before, or does everyone just order another?

There is no repair kit listed for it by Haldex to rebuild it.

 

[Dock Rocker]

The kit with both valves new in box was on the big auction site the other day for $27.00.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Third From Texas]

^This

I just got mine in last week. EDIT: *NOT >Plug-n-play<

​N4400B Haldex Parking Brake Trailer Manifold Dash Valve

 

[NDT]

How is the Haldex N4400B plug and play??? There is a thread here somewhere that explains the magic needed to connect it. A dab of grease fixed my leaky brake controller.

 

[Third From Texas]

How is the Haldex N4400B plug and play??? There is a thread here somewhere that explains the magic needed to connect it. A dab of grease fixed my leaky brake controller.

I stand corrected then. When I asked about it on the FB group, Sean Fillner stated that it bolted right up to the existing. I guess I should have looked into it more closely.

Thanks

 

[NDT]

NP, search in FMTV forum for "haldex", post by "overdrive" 3/20/16.

 

[Awesomeness]

How is the Haldex N4400B plug and play??? There is a thread here somewhere that explains the magic needed to connect it. A dab of grease fixed my leaky brake controller.

I was about to ask the same thing. I went and looked the picture up in the TM -24P and was confused because it looks nothing like that N4400B (it's a bunch of individual pieces, not one solid thing).

I stand corrected then. When I asked about it on the FB group, Sean Fillner stated that it bolted right up to the existing. I guess I should have looked into it more closely.

I find that you really have to triple check everything people say. Whenever a part or fix is mentioned, I go through the whole verification process... look it up in the TMs, google the part numbers, look at the pictures, see if I can find measurements/descriptions, go look at the truck, etc. It's a shame, because the incorrect information floating around just causes more problems. Along with this, make sure you read every post in a thread. Bad information will often be refuted later in the thread, but if you stop reading and go buy stuff, you'll be stuck.

 

[Third From Texas]

I find that you really have to triple check everything people say.

Yeah. In Sean's defense he did tell me to go watch the video (of course he says that every time anyone asks a question on the FB page). With almost 100 videos and no way to search for what is in each, I can't always find the time to re-watch everything from scratch (I have seen many of his clips, though and they are helpful).

I think it was just miscommunication looking at it now. I asked if it was the same part and he said "yes". I was thinking OEM and I guess he was thinking same as in his video.

 

[Awesomeness]

Yeah. In Sean's defense he did tell me to go watch the video (of course he says that every time anyone asks a question on the FB page). With almost 100 videos and no way to search for what is in each, I can't always find the time to re-watch everything from scratch (I have seen many of his clips, though and they are helpful).

I think it was just miscommunication looking at it now. I asked if it was the same part and he said "yes". I was thinking OEM and I guess he was thinking same as in his video.

It wasn't a dig on you. I was merely making a PSA to "trust, but verify". I find so much incorrect information around here (that's part of the reason I maintain my own parts list and other documents, because I know they were actually checked).

YouTube has a "save for later" function that is useful. On an embedded video, you can usually click the title of the video, or the "Watch on YouTube" button to get to the actual YouTube page. Then, below and to the right of the video, near the thumbs-up/thumbs-down buttons, there is a "+ SAVE" button. I also use a tool called ClipGrab to download important videos that I want to make sure to keep (e.g. the Meritor hub rebuild video), so that if the owner ever takes it down I still have a copy.

 

[jkcondrey]

Well, I called Haldex and the part # listed in the tm's is not orderable by the civvies, but the tech recommended part # kn20025 as the replacement for the common folk. I just ordered one and will chime back on it after its here and everything is pulled out of dash for comparison. Not that the single unit isn't a viable option, but if I don't have to redo my hoses, it would be easier on me personally.

 

[coachgeo]

Sean cut a square out of the plate that holds the two OEM ones to mount this. Pretty easy. I wonder if the knobs can be removed to install it right thru the holes of the oem plate..... though Im sure Sean explored that option and discounted it for a good reason.

 

[Third From Texas]

Sean cut a square out of the plate that holds the two OEM ones to mount this. Pretty easy. I wonder if the knobs can be removed to install it right thru the holes of the oem plate..... though Im sure Sean explored that option and discounted it for a good reason.

Looking at it today, the holes for the knobs are identically spaced. It has four threaded mounting holes on the face of the device. I'd think you could just drill four holes and bolt it to the existing faceplate.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Since the M-1081 I have had the heater / vent system beat to pieces when I got it, I just bought a complete replacement center unit with new air brakes & trailer brakes controls to eliminate many problems @ once. That is not an inexpensive way to repair the problem, but it worked so far.

 

[coachgeo]

Looking at it today, the holes for the knobs are identically spaced. It has four threaded mounting holes on the face of the device. I'd think you could just drill four holes and bolt it to the existing faceplate.

.... if the knobs come off so you can slide the stem thru and reinstall the knobs..... perfect. Otherwise it's back to what Sean did.. cut the center out of OEM face plate to form a square donut... and bolted this below; or above.

 

[Third From Texas]

The knobs come off with a small push pin just like the OEM.

Instead of the external retainer nut the OEM uses to hold it to the face plate, there are four screws (which would need holes be drilled).

But as you say, Sean may have encountered something I'm not seeing here.

 

[jkcondrey]

Well I got the trailer supply valve in and installed. Quite easy to install, just mark the lines and fittings, remove and swap then reattach. Easy enough I have ordered the Park valve too. I know a lot of folks like the new single piece unit, but I just choose to stick with the original setup. For anyone looking to do so as well the parts numbers in the TM cross over to these, per the Haldex tech line:
Trailer valve-kn20025 $40 shipped on the auction site
Park valve-kn20035 $45 or so at napa, depending on your discount level.

The new valves have a nice, push button retainer for the knobs instead of the roll pin to hammer out.


If I recall, with the one piece it runs around $26 and the $50+ in fittings and line. So it all depends on what you want to deal with. No cutting or drilling out the original dash panel or buying new fittings.

 

[jkcondrey]

I got the new parking valve and installed it as well. Just swapped the fittings over to the new one. Came with
a blue top cap with the easy attach push bottom fitting for it. Again much better than the old roll pin deal.