transfer case or transmission problem, help with diagnosis

[pinwormfood]

guys, I have encountered my first real mechanical problem. I hope you guys can help me diagnose the issue.
first, i have a stock m1009 that I put a 4 inch rancho lift on back in the summer and had no issues.

ok, I was driving down the road about 10 MPH in 4WD and WHAM!!! it felt like I hit a boulder. except there was no boulder. It must have been something that locked up and I skid to a stop. there was snow on the ground, so i skid for a little bit. and not an instant stop.

I looked underneath and nothing fell off or looked out of whack. I got back in the truck, and put it into drive. first thing i noticed was the speedo needle was doing really funny stuff. it was dropping to the bottom on the gauge, then popped up to 20 then back down and so on, when I shifted into neutral it did a different bobbing pattern. so i put it back into park, and then shifted out of 4wd and then back into 2wd...played with that some. finally i got the truck to hook up and I was able to make it back to my driveway.

it sat overnight, and i tried doing it again in the morn. I got the same symptoms this time, but i could not get it to hook up and go. I also hear a "whurring" noise in park and in drive...it is louder in drive.
also, I now noticed that even in park, the truck will roll backwards unless I put on the e-brake.

I have looked under the truck, and I don't see anything unusual, but I have to admit....i don't really know what it should look like to know if something is jacked up. unless it;s something obvious.

I checked my trans fluid and it is nice and red, clean, and did not smell burnt. It is a cold trans but I didn't think that it would matter as I am not checking the level, but the condition of the fluid.

so does anyone have any ideas what else I can do, check, and/or test in order to diagnose the problem. I sure do hope it's a t. case and not the trans. I can get either of them fairly cheap, but I can't really afford the labor on a trans, and a T.case will be a bit cheaper to remove/replace.

thank you very much guys, and this is my only vehicle, daily driver....so I really need to get this bad boy up and running.

thanks, pinwormfood


UPDATE: I was under the truck, and was doing some experiments. first, i drained the transfer case looked in there as much as you can. looked good and clean and the fluid was a darker red than the trans fluid, but didn't looks jacked up and I didn't see any metal pieces.

then I had the ebrake on and truck running. chocked the real wheel. had the MRS. put it in drive, and I looked under there, and the rear drive shaft was spinning, but truck no move!!! gave it a little gas, the shaft spins faster, truck no move again.

so would that be a sign that the rear is shot? logically that would seem that to me. now, knowing that, does that explain why the speedo is acting funny??? how about this one?? when I go to put the truck into park, it kind of doesn't go in nicely and grinds a bit, then I let off and try to put it in again and it works fine and goes into park.

ok, guys, i really need some help. and perhaps does anyone know a good mechanic in the easton, pa area???

 

[markg]

the transfer case sounds like the problem. the np 208's have an aluminum case , are light and easy to remove. if you have the ability you can split them apart and fix them, usually the shifting fork wears and wont keep them locked in the right range. common problem. good luck

after update: the reason it wont go into park is because everything is moving inside the trans and tcase. when you fix your rearend, all will be back to normal. t-case being in nuetral will cause the same thing to happen.

 

[pinwormfood]

repair manual number

does anyone know what is manual number for transfer case R/R and the manual number for the T case rebuild?
thanks, pinworm

 

[dstang97]

Sounds like you grenaded a 10 bolt. Take off the drive shaft and do some more investigating.

 

[Cucvnut]

Its the rear pinion it went bang it mean's its ****ed ! you need a new rear axle or or new set of gears

 

[pinwormfood]

what rear to buy

Its the rear pinion it went bang it mean's its ****ed ! you need a new rear axle or or new set of gears

ok, i was kind of figuring that, and have read a few threads about better rear setups. since this one is trashed, what would be a good upgrade. i do more road driving than hardcore offroading, but i'd like to get something better than stock that will be a good on/off rear. something that isn't going to break the bank.
i have a 4 inch lift and stock tires that I am looking to upgrade to a set of 36's.

 

[dunedigger]

You are likely grinding going into park because the shaft was still trying to spin with nothing to brake it. My buddy had the same thing happen to his k5. Sounds like a good time to upgrade the axles. If you don't I replaced my M1009 rear end with a nos gm axle drum to drum and e brake cables installed for about 400 bucks. There are some supliers that still have them.

 

[Milbikes]

I'd say replace the rear end with a good unit from a M1009....keep it stock. If the rear axle is in good shape, oil is right amount and type, not run dry or driven stupid, it will last a long time. I'll put one in for a nice '47 Knucklehead top end (Cylinders and heads

 

[scrambled]

It sounds like the govlock grenaded. I would replace it with an Auburn Gear Limited slip. The auburn uses cones to lock up and eventhough it is not rebuildable, I have never worn one out in my jeeps or trucks. You must use Spicer or GM posi additive in the diff, but I like the amount of grip you get from them.

Travis

 

[pinwormfood]

I'd say replace the rear end with a good unit from a M1009....keep it stock. If the rear axle is in good shape, oil is right amount and type, not run dry or driven stupid, it will last a long time. I'll put one in for a nice '47 Knucklehead top end (Cylinders and heads

hahahaa...sure thing. i'll toss in a set of nos cases and flywheels too. lol
i wonder how you put 2 and 2 together.

 

[DokWatson]

Very common with the Eaton G80 'Gov-Lock', sounds like it grenaded on you. A set of 3/4 ton 8 lug axles (Dana 44+12 Bolt) can be had for very little money. People even give them away for free doing axle swaps. This would be an improvement, but if you do have the money, D60+14BFF and never buy another set again

Oh and for future reference... all you needed to do to verify a broken axle was take the differential cover off. If it wasn't broken, you'd be out a couple quarts of 80W90. No need to see a mechanic for that.

 

[jj]

If the rear driveshaft spins and the truck doesn't move, something BIG is broken in the axle. These are not "full floating axles", so a broken axle shaft will cause the wheel to fall off because the c-clip is in the differential. If you aren't hard off roading another ten bolt would be an easy repair. Coleman's Surplus in Millersburg,PA was selling replacement M-1009 ten bolts cheap. Far cheaper than you could source all of the individual components for a complete overhaul. The two i bought were brand new, never used, NOT rebuilts. Millersburg is up river from Harrisburg, Coleman's has a pretty easily navigated website. Hope this helped.

 

[Cucvnut]

like Dok said you can pick up a set of 3/4 ton axles for cheap and toss them in the truck. some 3/4 ton's had 14FF or 14SF not a 12 bolt.

 

[rlwm211]

The rear has sheared off the teeth on the ring and pinion. Even if the locker had grenaded, there would be some linking to the forward motion of the truck and this would not explain how he got home.

If there was a broken axle the wheel would fall off as the axle in an M1009 is semi floating which means the outer bearing is in the axle tube and the inner clips in the diff hold it al together and if an axle breaks, it works its way out of the differential and then you have a big problem.

No matter what the reason for the problem, the simple diagnostic is to pull the differential cover and see what falls out. You will be able to see one way or another what is wrong.
Buy a cheap 4 quart drain pan, remove the bolts and then pry the bottom of the cover off carefully to allow the oil to drain before removing it.

Pictures of the damage would be fun to look at and may help greatly with the diagnostic.

Hope this helps

RL

 

[markg]

The rear has sheared off the teeth on the ring and pinion. Even if the locker had grenaded, there would be some linking to the forward motion of the truck and this would not explain how he got home.


RL

i think he got home because he has a 4x4 truck, front end will pull down the road just fine, ive done it before

 

[rlwm211]

Agreed on the getting home. This just reinforces the thinking that his rear has a major failure.

I have done a similiar thing and made it cross country in a K1500 pulling a trailer that had a rear diff blow. It was a very high mileage truck and the gears simply wore out. I used front drive to get the last 100 miles. Pulled the cover and the teeth were gone on the ring and the pinion was shot as well.

I bet if you pull the drive shaft the yoke will be loose with either play side to side, or else front to back.

RL