Transfer case question

[ldmack3]

Quick question. Interior out and top off of the tranny. Want to do the same with the Transfer. Don't see anything here about it, except pic after it is off. Same as tranny? Make sure it is in neutral?
Anything special to look for?

Thanks all.

 

[davidb56]

there is only a small cover on it and no way to inspect it without removal and disassembly. the TM's don't give specs on shaft rotational play/backlash. So if it works, and isnt leaking from the seals, there is no input/output play, and no metal in the oil when you drain it, you should be good to go. I assume it hasn't given you problems. Mine leaks a small amount, as does everything else, but works fine and has no up/down shaft play, so I run it without worry.

 

[M35fan]

I haven't been inside my TC yet. But while the access panels are off it's a good time to check the bolts on the Jack shaft. Mine had two loose bolts and one missing bolt.

 

[ldmack3]

No issues. I'll change the fluid and check the bolts.
Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

No issues. I'll change the fluid and check the bolts.
Thanks

Especially check for any radial play of the input shaft. The bearings on that shaft are all ball bearings, so there's no possible adjustment. The slightest play (radially) indicates that those bearings are ready for retirement...
And once you have it all drained, don't be afraid of sticking your finger in that hole (or better a magnetic pickup tool) to search for bearing cage fragments and there-like.

 

[frank8003]

No issues. I'll change the fluid and check the bolts.
Thanks

I only ever found one reference to Jack Shaft in the TM's.
Best to get new nuts if they are loose. I think they call them a stover nut or some thing like that.
It's the kind of nut grade 9 nut that the top has some dents in it pointing to the inside.
They are a one time use type nut. Ny-locs will losen up. And as mat said it easy to get to from the bottom side. Block the wheels, leave both the trans and trafer in N and you can spin the shaft easy. You may want to use a pray bar to hold the shaft in place to tighten the bolt/nuts. If you still need a pic I've got the tunnel open and have some of those nuts if you need a pic of them.

I did all mine from the top as it was easier better for the torque I needed to apply.
Anyhow there is many lubrication points around in there that me thinks look like never got touched....



1/2"-20 Yellow Zinc Finish Steel Top Lock Nut USA for Grade 9 Applications

US Fasteners - Locking Nuts - Locknut - Grade 9 Stover Locknut - Grade 9 Alloy C

www.nuttybolts.com

1/2"-20 Stover Nut Grade C Zinc and Wax | K.L. Jack

www.kljack.com

Wholesale: $1.21 / each ?

 

[frank8003]

a bit more

It looks like the bolts and nuts are

Locking Feature

Prevailing torque all metal design

PART # 7521001=bolt
PART # MS21045-8 = nut
NSN 5306-00-752-1001=bolt
NSN 5310-00-062-4954=nut​

 

[davidb56]

a bit more

I mounted a momentary switch on the cross member and when in reverse, it makes contact with the shifter shaft, and powers up my reverse light on the back. Easy to do when the access cover is off.

 

[ldmack3]

All bolts were tight. Check at 100# and none moved. Cover back on the tranny.

I am curious what the rod with a hole in it that comes out the back of the tranny cover is for. I found where it is called a "reverse shifter shaft and apparently in some cases hooks to something but I've nothing to hook it to. Is this for a different model?

 

[gringeltaube]

...... in some cases hooks to something but I've nothing to hook it to. Is this for a different model?

On the earlier trucks with the T136-21 "sprag" transfer case, that rod controls the forward-reverse shift shaft of the TC sprag unit.
It has no use on later models with the T136-27 "air shift" TC.

 

[ldmack3]

Thanks!
I was actually kind of worried as the rod end with hole is perfectly clean with no corrosion. Thought I lost something!