Transmission leakage/electrical question

[2w091]

Our 1025A2 has a small transmission leak, it appears to be coming from the area where three fittings come together to some type of valve/fitting bolted to the frame cross member. I've looked in the technical manual and cannot identify the fitting/valve. The leak is several drops after each use, and seems worse if the vehicle is started and idled for several minutes before driving. The trans shifts a little hard to second, but is fine to 3rd and OD.

Also when the glow plugs are on before starting, what range should the volt meter read? Ours is slightly above the red when the wait light is on, after it goes out it sits right on the yellow/green line prior to starting.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[ohiohmmwv]

I think it's your bypass valve where the tcase and transmission cooling lines meet up that then go to the cooling stack. It's a 4l80e transmission right?

 

[2w091]

The leak appears to be coming from the rear of the valve, it's not much, just a few drops here and there.

 

[ohiohmmwv]

Probably needs some new rubber hose or there's a small rust hole in the steel tube.

 

[2w091]

We replaced the middle rubber hose, you can see it in the middle pic.

On the electrical side, can someone explain why the volt meter cycles on a cold start. You can hear it while the vehicle is idling, a small loss in RPM as the meter cycles from red to green, it lasts for about two minutes. I'd assume it's the voltage regulator or something similiar, I've seen others do the same. Just want to make sure it's not a problem.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

We replaced the middle rubber hose, you can see it in the middle pic.

On the electrical side, can someone explain why the volt meter cycles on a cold start. You can hear it while the vehicle is idling, a small loss in RPM as the meter cycles from red to green, it lasts for about two minutes. I'd assume it's the voltage regulator or something similiar, I've seen others do the same. Just want to make sure it's not a problem.

This is is all normal, you most likely have a yellow label KDS EESS. The reason for your voltage drop on startup is simple, you are energizing 8 glow plugs, thus it's pulling a load on the battery's, once the timer expires and the wait light goes out, the needle will move to yellow range, this is the actual battery voltage with no load on it, after startup it will go to green and that is and should be at the white mark in green, that's about 27.5 volts charging.
the next 2 mins or so on the KDS yellow label EESS will have the after glow cycling of the glow plugs, this is evidenced by the up and down spike of the voltage gauge, dimmed head lights etc....all normal.
this attribute is no longer applicable in the newer KDS or Nartron S3 EESS.

as far as the tranny leak, replace the rubber hosed and add new hose clamps....that's a bypass valve.
if you choose to just remove it and bypass it, there is no harm.

 

[2w091]

Great thanks!
We've had it for a year, we've changed all the fluids and attempted to keep up PM per the -10. Our only concern was the tranny leak and it sounds like no big deal. I try to drive it at least once a week to get the engine up to operating temp and all fluids flowing. I spoke with the unit mechanic when we first got it, he said it leaked mainly because it sat in the Georgia sun for 18yrs, it came from a line unit and the maintenance was up to date as of April 2014.
The gauge shows right on the yellow/green line without a load, just shy of full green when running, it blew a couple headlights when we first got it, no problem since.
Thanks again for the info!

 

[86humv]

Here's what the valve looks like removed from the housing :
It may be the O-ring.