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Truck won't start

Tom_Statt

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Cincinnati, OH
I drove my truck to work so I could adjust the valves and fix a fuel leak before going to haspin. I shut it off when I got there, and less than 5 min. later, I went back out, and I coulden't get it to start. I don't have time to look through threads now, but I'm going to have to stay after at work to get it running. Here are some details: The valves are out of adjust ment, but not that bad- rule them out. The fuel leak is not small, bit it ain't big either, plus the lift pump works, so that can be ruled out. Any ideas from there? I just replaced the IP over the weekend, think anything could be seized? It ran like a scalded dog all the way to work, and other than it not starting and the fuel leak, it was working perfect up to that moment. Thanks if you can help, if not, thanks for reading. if I get it figured out, I'll post on here what I learned. But for now, I need to get off here, and get back to work.
 

Stretch44875

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PM sent.

I assume the engine is turning over? New IP, I would check the shut off rod, under the side cover on the IP. Make sure it is moving freely. It is spring loaded againist the cable pull, not connected, so the shutoff can be moving on the outside, and not on the inside.
 

Tom_Statt

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Cincinnati, OH
Ok, heres what I learned. It won't start even after 30 seconds of cranking, even after contenuing for several minutes (between 30 second intervals). It will start with a small shot of ether, and run like nothing was wrong. So once I got it running, I pulled it into the shop and commenced adjusting valves and fixing leaks. (one of the hex plugs on the HH, and two fuel injection lines (number 3 and 6)). I slowed the leaks on the injection lines, but they still dribble. looks like I need to get me some lines (Anyone able to bring some to haspin, haha). The plug I haven't checked yet because I haven't gotten it running yet. I did find that my lift pump took a dump. The wires are fine, and a new fuse/jumper can't get it going again (add that to the bring to haspin list). Here in a minute I'll try firing it up with a little ether to see if it will start, and see if The leaks ain't as bad as they were.

Heres what the next bit of learning brought me: I Got it running, but the plug is still leaking away like crazy, looks like leak-lock let me down for the first time, I'll try Teflon tape again, allthough it failed once allready with it. It seemed to work better. I shut it down, waited 30 seconds, and tried to crank it again without ether. It struggled a bit, but it started. Heres the goofy thing-I didn't get any air out of the bleeders. But I didn't try too long, and I'll try again after I get the teflon tape out, and run this thing again.
 

Tom_Statt

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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Ok, learned some more. when I take that plug out, and try running the truck, it starts fine. if I shut it off, put the plug in and tighten it down, it won't start. weird.
 

Tom_Statt

New member
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Found the problem. there is a crack in the HH right above the hex plug. ****, so much for that new injection pump I just put in. Oh well. It probobly isin't a good Idea, but I guess I'll just clean up and head home in defeat. anyone able to help on anything else?
 

Tom_Statt

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Cincinnati, OH
They sure do. If you want to know how to do it, you can either look up on another thread, TM, or I can tell ya how to do it on this thread when I get home. That is, if my truck makes it home, HaHa.
 

ctmustang

Member
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Location
Thomasville-N.C.
Did you over tighten the plug and crack the housing-sometimes too tight is a bad thing. Teflon tape is not really a thread sealer but to help the threads slide against each other without galling.
CT
 

Tom_Statt

New member
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
I sure did, but not that it really matters anyway, the plug that I thaught was leaking, wasen't. turns out that the only leaks I have are the Crack above the plug, and the lines for Cyl. 3 and 6 @ the HH. But it starts up just fine, and drives like nothing is wrong. Just makes a mess wherever it goes.
 
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