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Trying to dismount a tire

Special T

Special T

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wreckerman893 said:
This is why I don't do super single tires.

I have a Tire Dude that will take one off, replace an O-ring and put it back on for 35 bucks. He works on skidders so his guys have it down to an art form.

Check around and see which of your heavy tire dealers does skidders and go get a price check.

Your back will thank you and you have less of a chance of losing your religion over it.

But you may be younger than me and need the exercise. Just my dos centavos for what it's worth.
Click to expand...
That is an absolute steal!

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simp5782

simp5782

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Special T said:
That is an absolute steal!

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Click to expand...
I have a guy that will break down split ring wheels and seperate em for 3$ ea. I can keep the trailer loads going.

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Mos68x

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DiverDarrell said:
I had the same problem splitting some rims. I bought a Milwaukee fuel impact that does 700 ft/lb of removal. Made quick work of them.
Click to expand...
You talkin about the M18 Fuel?

Got the tire apart today, took into town to a friend at the local mechanic shop. He had a 3/4 impact and let me bust nuts loose. When I got home and got it apart with a little help from some air I was surprised at how little rust there was. There wasn't any on the sealing surface for the o-rings, just between the two rim halves behind the rim face. A grinder with a wire wheel took care of most of it, even on the threads of the studs where I could reach. There wasn't much blue RTV in this rim, but there was some. I'm dreading dealing with the other rims where I can see it oozed out in places between the rim halves. I also want to chase the rest of the threads with the die, but I need to find a 1-7/16 wrench, or adjustable that'll go that large. I do have channel locks but I don't like using them unless its an emergency or as a last resort. I don't have any o-rings so I'm going to try an experiment with some old DAP caulking I do have lying around. I laid a bead that I hope will be thick enough and I'm letting it cure overnight to give it the best chance. Tomorrow I'll lay the other rim half in place and see if I made it thick enough. I'd post pictures, but I don't know how to with this stupid Bulletin mobile site and I just used all my data for this month on my hotspot where I use my iPad.
 
someoldmoose

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Just to confirm what I read, you are going to use household caulk on a wheel assembly for a vehicle that will be driven on public roads ? aua
1 - I really, really hope you reconsider and track down the proper o-rings. That is what was engineered to be there for a reason.

If not then:
2 - Please make sure that wheel has a run-flat in it, ESPECIALLY if it is going on a steer axle.
3 - Make sure you have very good insurance.
4 - Drive around with lowered air pressure ( off road ) to be familiar with how your rig handles with low / no air in the tires.
 
doghead

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This is why they have accident scene investigators.
 
Gunzy

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I dismounted 4 of these for a company and found that for whatever reason even with a 3/4 impact heat was required to get them off. We still had to cut 4 studs on one wheel to get it apart. New studs and nuts are available through a few vendors. Needless to say it was a long day. We had to dismount 4 HMMWV tires too but they were cake in comparison. Another handy tool to have is a hydraulic bead breaker, I have a couple so the hard part was the wheel nuts.
 
Jbulach

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Watch both video's that Gimpy posted in there entirety, then go buy a 1" impact or torque multiplier. Every 3/4" impact I've used has had very little advantage over a good 1/2 drive, every few years when I get my 3/4 out to try again, I wonder why I still haven't scraped it.
 
sue

sue

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When you need a "1 impact buy a good one, along the lines of buying
a cheap hand gun for personal defense. And use a torch to "break"
the bond between the nut and wheel
 
gimpyrobb

gimpyrobb

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Jbulach said:
Watch both video's that Gimpy posted in there entirety, then go buy a 1" impact or torque multiplier. Every 3/4" impact I've used has had very little advantage over a good 1/2 drive, every few years when I get my 3/4 out to try again, I wonder why I still haven't scraped it.
Click to expand...
Bring it to Findlay...
 
Mos68x

Mos68x

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Got it together a couple days ago and tested it, worked good up 50psi and then started leaking. No better than what I'm already dealing with. I suspected it might do that since I saw a few spots that looked like it might not maintain contact with the two sealing surfaces. I will get the o-rings but had a question before I ordered enough for all the rims. I've seen two different styles of sealing surfaces, the tapered rim seats on Ken Nelson's rims (Nelson studios on YouTube) and the type on this one rim I already have apart that pinches the o-ring and holds it in place. Ken said that his rim had a 5/8-18 studs, whereas all mine are the 3/4-16 studs. Can I count on all my rims being the same as the one I've already pulled apart? And 1/4" seems a bit small for an o-ring on this rim, do I need the 3/8" ones instead?

Thanks
 
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