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Trying to modify my Deuce to tow a U-haul, inexpensively

kf4hoq

kf4hoq

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But the issue at hand isn't your fabrications skills, but whether or not U-haul would even rent a trailer to you because your truck isn't on the approved list. Even though you know, and I know, that your deuce would pull that Mustang and not even know it's there, the point is moot if U-haul won't even talk to you. Plus they may not like that you've fabricated a hitch, no matter how well built it is.

Good luck in your road trip!!
 
Loco_Hosa

Loco_Hosa

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kf4hoq said:
But the issue at hand isn't your fabrications skills, but whether or not U-haul would even rent a trailer to you because your truck isn't on the approved list. Even though you know, and I know, that your deuce would pull that Mustang and not even know it's there, the point is moot if U-haul won't even talk to you. Plus they may not like that you've fabricated a hitch, no matter how well built it is.

Good luck in your road trip!!
Click to expand...
We're actually starting to lean more towards the idea of a tow bar for this reason.

I have found some just like this for very inexpensive: LINK

And I have found these brackets: LINK

Yes, I know that picture does not show a 94 mustang, but its that style bracket. My question is if this bracket works with the tow bar shown, and, I would like to know what hitch heights that style tow bar would accept.

Thank you all for your help so far. Im considering all options, but my biggest fear is that this truck will fail somewhere along the way. =/
 
OPCOM

OPCOM

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I made a hitch and there was never any problem with it.
here is a pic and info. it is 3/8" steel and the pintle mounting was used to hold it. Pintle remained. This is copy off the web page where it is shown:


Notes:
01. The hitch was made from 3/8" cold rolled steel.
A plate was obtained which was 12" wide and 44" long.
The sections are 12"x18" (rear), two 6"x18" (sides), and 6"x18" (bottom shelf). There is always a bit of waste when torch-cutting, so although you might say you only need a 42" length, figure on a couple more inches.

02. The panels were tacked up with a 1/8" gap between them.

03. The outside welds were done with a TIG welder using a rod to fill the gap between the parts.

04. The inside welds followed and were done with a regular arc welder using a 'hi/lo' stick.

05. The welds were done this way to ensure complete penetration all the way across the mating faces of the parts throughout the job. This is my first 'real' welding job. The job was supervised by a professional welder. Always seek a knowledgeable craftsman to help make sure such a job is done properly.

06. The holes for the pintle mount are 1/2" diameter and were done on a drill press starting with a 1/4" drill.
The speed for all drilling was 180RPPM and plenty of lube oil was used. Actually, 80W90 gear oil was used for the job, as it was on hand.
The 2" ball hitch also uses a 1/2" hole. Two 1.5" holes were blown in the sides for the safety chains of a small trailer, in case they are too short to reach the M35's loops.
The size of small trailer this is intended to pull would weigh no more than a ton fully loaded, such as an ATV or dirt bike trailer loaded with gear. This provides a very generous safety margin.

07. The pintle shaft is about 1.75" diameter, so a 2" hole was torched in the back plate of the hitch assembly to pass the shaft.

08. Since there is now 3/8" more thickness to the depth the pintle shaft must penetrate, it was a concern that the large locknut on the rear of the pintle shaft would not go on far enough to allow its cotter pin to be inserted.
There is originally a large washer (bushing) between the inner pintle bearing and this locknut. (The bushing is about 11/32 thick having a hole just barely over 1 1/2" and an outer diameter of about 2 1/2".)

09. The bushing was removed and two "machine bushings" with an inner diameter of 1 1/2" and an outer diameter of about 2 1/4" were used instead. The bushings looked to be about 1/16" thick. It would be preferrable to have bushings with a larger diameter like the original.
The metal is not very tough, but liberal greasing should make it last. It is something that should be inspected each time the pintle is to be used.
Better bushings should be used, but we used what was at hand for now. It turned out that two more could possibly be fit into the space. It might be a good idea later to have a proper bushing made, or have the original hard steel one milled down a bit.
The fail safe is that should the small busing fail, the pintler nut with its cotter pin will hold. The assembly must be inspected before and after use as part of any PMCS program. If the pintle feels loose, be sure to inspect the assembly most diligently.

10. The lower shelf is 24" above ground (Note: truck uses 11.00x20 tires). This reduces the M35's departure angle slightly.

11. Cotter pin which secures pintle in closed position had to be shortened by 7/8" due to the side of the assembly being a little too close to the pintle to let the pin go straight in.
This could be avoided by cutting a 1" hole in the side panel opposite the hole in the pintle body so that the chain end of the pin can be temporarily stuck out through the hole as the split end of the pin is lined up with the hole in the pintle.

12. The two original grade-8 bolts which hold the pintle bearing in place are apparently fine for this use. The ones on my truck were just long enough so that the extra thickness of the back plate let the treads be flush with the nuts upon assembly. The socket size was 1 1/8".

13. This web page is for purposes of interest only. Making a trailer hitch is very serious business and the workman should be sure that he has been diligent in using good advice, materials and practices, including frequent inspections before and after use. No responsibility is assumed by us for your actions.
 

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Loco_Hosa

Loco_Hosa

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Great and helpful post! Thank you, I think I will use a very similar design!

My roommat is concerned that we will sheer those grade 8 bolts. I think he is a dumbass, but I figure a piece of steel welded to the back of hitch and bolted to the bottom of the frame would stop any of his concerns.

Again, Thank you!
 
hellrayzor1

hellrayzor1

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I added a reese hitch under my truck so I can pull my car trailer with it, the only problem I have is running a 12 volt trailer behind a 24 volt truck the bulbs glow really brite but not very long. You will wipe out the bulbs in a Uhaul trailer in the first couple miles. I am trying to figure out some way to solve this problem without changing to 24 volt bulbs because i loan the trailer out to people all the time that dont have a big truck.
 

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srodocker

srodocker

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If you make it to wa and something fails you can get ahold of me. im sure if your in northern cal or oregon josh would lend some sort of assistance
 
Loco_Hosa

Loco_Hosa

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srodocker said:
If you make it to wa and something fails you can get ahold of me. im sure if your in northern cal or oregon josh would lend some sort of assistance
Click to expand...
Thank you for the offer of help! I spoke to U-haul today, and they said that I can get my truck and a homemade hitch approved, however my roommate and I are thinking its best to just drive the mustang, fuel for it will cost less than the tow dolly or tow bar.

Today I had to go get the equipment to change a tire roadside on the truck. I told myself if I was useing a breaker bar, it needed to be Craftsmen, and for the breaker bar, the beefy extension, and the socket (All of our tools were stolen) was going to be between $70-100. I decided instead to get a glad hand, a length of hose, and since the craftsmen air hammers were very expensive and 1/2 inch drive, I was worried that they would not be able to break the lugs loose without spending $120, I instead went to harbor freight and spent $100 for a 3/4 inch drive air hammer that puts out an AWESOME 950lbs feet of torque.

I still need to change the oil, and I want to pull of and inspect the brake drums. I will be contacting some other Southern Cali MV owners to see if they will assist me in these preparations.

The only other sticking points are I still need a brake light switch, and I need a turn signal relay.

Anyone else have suggestions for things to look over before a 1200 mile trip?
 
Loco_Hosa

Loco_Hosa

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Derrickl112 said:
sounds like your really tight on money...maybe having a "toy" isnt the best thing right now...2cents
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This is a good point, however I have thought about selling the truck and decided against it. Money is tight, but I have wanted this for 3 years, and if I sold it now, I could not afford to buy one in Washington. (They are about twice the cost)

Although I thank you for making the suggestion, take my word for it that in this situation it would be less cost effective to sell it.
 
John S-B

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I wouldn't rent a furniture blanket from Uhaul, let alone a vehicle. They have some of the worst maintained equipment ever, driven by amateur drivers. I'd rent from anybody else. But I'd vote for putting the car in the bed.
 
Unforgiven

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jtron79

jtron79

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I can help some should you need it. salem to roseburg. Honestly give it some good planned thought tho, I purchased my truck in washington for 3200, got 2 105's and a deuce bed full of parts, i probly passed over 4 or 5 trucks around 2-3k. that truck will have quite a few things needing checked out before that horrible journey. I think the words to live by are if it cant be done SAFELY don't do it!
 
Kohburn

Kohburn

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ship it would be first choice

second would be to rent trailer from an equipment rental company not uhaul.
 
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