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Turbo time! Installing 6.5 turbo

reloader64

Active member
377
138
43
Location
Liberty Hill, Texas
The injector pump injects the fuel into the combustion chamber. The lift pump pumps the fuel from the tank to the injector pump.

Scott

Sorry, sat on the thread for a while before replying.
 
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481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
How does the electric pump wire in and physically mount up?
The factory electric lift pump is no bigger than a fuel filter so there are plenty of good places for it. I mounted mine back by the tank on the inside of the frame rail where it was on the donor vehicle. Black wire simply grounds to frame. Red wire has an inline fuse in the wire and it picks up power at the fusebox at a power source that is hot with the ignition on.
 

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Dawookie

New member
28
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0
Location
Kingwood, TX
The factory electric lift pump is no bigger than a fuel filter so there are plenty of good places for it. I mounted mine back by the tank on the inside of the frame rail where it was on the donor vehicle. Black wire simply grounds to frame. Red wire has an inline fuse in the wire and it picks up power at the fusebox at a power source that is hot with the ignition on.
Is there a reason you didnt install a filter before the pump? I installed one and was glad i did when it filled up with junk from the tank (cleaning out the tank is on my todo list).
 

ajsmith184

Member
191
0
16
Location
Howell, Mi
Thanks a lot for the pics and education fellas..Collecting parts while I am away from the truck during the week and trying to read everything can be a tad confusing. Looks easy enough though.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Is there a reason you didnt install a filter before the pump?
Yes there is. It is not needed. There wasn't one there before and the truck had been driven on a daily basis with no issues. There is also not one there on the newer donor vehicle. The purpose of the large underhood filter is to catch any debris coming from the tank before it gets to the IP. I don't see a need for installing a small filter to protect the big filter from getting dirty.
 

Dawookie

New member
28
0
0
Location
Kingwood, TX
Was going to write it is cheap insurance for the pump itself but then did the numbers. I guess it wouldnt take long buying those inline filters to equal the cost of the pump itselfs.
 

KevinsM1009

New member
15
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0
Location
Manchester/NH
twomorestrokes,
The thread is definitely appreciated. Trailblazers have always been worth more than their weight in #2 Fuel Oil...I have a 1984 Suburban C10 6.5L "Dealer Diesel"(guessing was a ReManned 6.2 due to warranty repairs being what they were back in the early '80's..) that is going to be going into my 12/85 M1009 as soon as I can afford the IP rebuild & wp/intake parts the 6.5 will need(came from a local Junkyard, sat on top shelf of warehouse for 3 years & listed 135,000 orig. miles...). This thread gives me hope that the 6.5L is not only going too be worthwhile, BUT that there is room for improvement even over that. Please keep us updated on how things progress as parts wear together. I am on the road all over NE for Construction work, my truck has the Blazes/Markings of a Mechanics vehicle so it is also my equipment carrier & camping, MTBiking, Kayaking & 4-wheeling Jack-of-All-Trades(just like it's owner..), so I will be reading further as I get back in town occasionally & gathering parts. Congratulations on the success & Thank You.
 

ajsmith184

Member
191
0
16
Location
Howell, Mi
Sooo...I am in the homestretch as far as parts gathering, planning on starting the swap this weekend.

That said..What pyrometer and boost guage should I go with? Any recommendations?
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
I just watched ebay until I found a good deal on a matched pair. I'm sure all of the name brands work well. I chose small diameter Autometer units so I could fit them into the panel where the volt gauge was. (I moved that gauge down to the radio block off plate so I could keep the turbo gauges more visible to keep a good eye on things while I am working it hard. My gauges were used but treated well and removed carefully and came repackaged in the original boxes with directions.
 

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ajsmith184

Member
191
0
16
Location
Howell, Mi
Another stoooopid problem that easily has me confused..

What oil return line did you use? Factory off the 6.5? How does it mount to the 6.5 block off plate?
 

av8rnik

Member
89
0
6
Location
Enterprise, AL
I didn't see anything about headgaskets. I changed mine and used ARP studs. The factory Prinotseal gaskets are garbage.
I run 15 psi with no issues. The bottom end can hold that fine. It's the headgaskets that won't.
Also a side note. Not sure what your frame looks like but mine had an extra brace where the drivers side rear spring hanger is that civvy trucks don't have so the 6.5 LS manifold would not fit. The 6.2 one worked fine. I bent the factory crossover a little to line up and welded a new flange on it that I harvested from the original 6.2 Exhaust.
You'll quickly get tired of the GM4 turbo.
When funds allow an HX35 Holset is on my wish list.
Also a DB2 2831-4911 is a nice upgrade . I am running one turned up.
What did you use for head gaskets? I am getting ready to put a HX35 on my 1028 along with new head studs.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
What did you use for head gaskets? I am getting ready to put a HX35 on my 1028 along with new head studs.
I haven't done anything with the head gaskets. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it but so far so good. Been hauling lots of wood with it the last few months with boost in the 10-12 psi range.
 
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