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Two Deuces Down--Hydrostatic Lock?

SasquatchSanta

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If I read it properly someone suggested earlier to remove the starter and see if it spins.

I'd be careful doing that. I think the M35 starters will come appart from high RPM if spun without load.

I may be wrong about this. Perhaps someone can shed some light. Better safe than sorry.
 

Speddmon

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If I read it properly someone suggested earlier to remove the starter and see if it spins.

I'd be careful doing that. I think the M35 starters will come appart from high RPM if spun without load.

I may be wrong about this. Perhaps someone can shed some light. Better safe than sorry.

You are correct about the starter, but it's not just the M35...any starter will do this if run long enough without a load applied.
 

m16ty

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HUH??????
Why......pray tell........would you have to have the stop pulled out??????:confused:
There is a chance if you turn it the engine could start. I doubt you'd ever spin it enough to start it but it could happen. We would then call you stumpy because of all your missing fingers :wink:.
 

Westex

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HUH??????
Why......pray tell........would you have to have the stop pulled out??????:confused:

I'll take an educated guess here that you dont want it to fire over with a socket or whatever on the damper?
 

tsmall07

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There is a chance if you turn it the engine could start. I doubt you'd ever spin it enough to start it but it could happen. We would then call you stumpy because of all your missing fingers :wink:.

The advice was to turn the engine with the injectors pulled. It'd be pretty hard for the engine to start with no compression or fuel. I agree that is the best course to take before removing the starter. Who cars if the starter works if the engine is full of bent connecting rods?

My truck had bad batteries (low voltage) and my starter would just make a thud when I pushed the button. That sound doesn't really mean anything.
 

littlebob

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The advice was to turn the engine with the injectors pulled. It'd be pretty hard for the engine to start with no compression or fuel. I agree that is the best course to take before removing the starter. Who cars if the starter works if the engine is full of bent connecting rods?

My truck had bad batteries (low voltage) and my starter would just make a thud when I pushed the button. That sound doesn't really mean anything.
Start with the easy and simple stuff and diagnose the problem that way, you can spend a lot more time barking up the wrong tree. Start by doing some of the thing suggested like checking voltage of batteries.
I don't think I would feel comfortable turning the engine over with the injectors in even if it had the stop pulled, and if you think that is a possibility that the cylinders have something in them you could do more damage.
Good Luck!
 

Stretch44875

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Has anyone put a socket on the crank with the engine in the truck? I don't think there is enough room without pulling the radaitor.

With that said, their is another way. Put the transmission in 5th gear, and transfer case in netural. Then you can put a pipe wrench on the driveshaft between the transmission and transfer and turn the engine over that way.
 

jhooah

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I'm for the ground being bad as posted earlier. Makes more sense.
Hydrostatic lock while running could only occur if you poured water into the intake, or filled the oil pan with a bad fuel pump (civilian gas engine style w/ bad diaphram)

For "both" trucks to do this, with one doing it 'after parked' likely indicates you have a bad connection on the frame/starter/battery. Friends deuce did the same thing when he came out of a gas station, I towed him home, then diagnosed it as the starter connection...started right up.

The PS manual states you should turn the engine over with the fuel shut off pulled out for 5 seconds! (see tech section and read) then push the fuel cut off in and crank for no more than 30 seconds. This is after you have PMCS'd checking the engine oil before starting in the morning...why...Hydrostatic Lock from fuel leaking into the cylinder.
BUT it never mentioned anything about driving along and locking up. Now the one that was running and died, may have other issues, as failure of the electrical system should not kill the engine once started unless it also lost suction for fuel, as the fuel pump only needs to pump during starting (normally) then the Injector pump can pull the fuel up even with a bad fuel pump or the accessory switch in the off position. (try it, rotate your switch to off without pulling the fuel cutoff out...still runs, just no juice...)

The thought of a locked up starter due to mud packing the housing is another possibility on them, but it should not have killed it running, and the one that drove around should not have merely frozen up overnight. Were mud packing the case, I'd try inserting a pressure washer or an adapted steel brakeline to a garden hose stuck up into the bell housing hole before I pulled the whole transmission (ugh!) the steel line should get in enough to clean it out, possibly rotating the transmission once or twice to get at the crud in the clutch. (much easier than pulling it...)

PLEASE post the results so we can learn...

V/R
LTC Winget
US Infantry
Kandahar, Afghanistan (for 6 More days!!!)

Virginia Military Preservation Association
www.vmpa.us
 

williamh

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i think that possibly the brother in law may have "stalled" the motor and not been able to get it to restart ..... due to a starter failure .. i to am thinking mud in starter caused it to fail.

just start with the "easy" stuff first .... battery , elect connections , etc
 

Speddmon

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This original thread is almost a month old already, and there have been numerous ideas and suggestions.....Do we have any information from the OP as to what the problem actually was/is?????????

Inquiring minds want to know!!!!
 
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