Un-Preserve Multifuel

[Greensick]

Hi Folks,
My quest to find an answer regarding getting a Multifuel prepped before starting after being in preservation. I found one thread in the search function but it wasn't as in depth as I needed. I bought it a few years back and now I am at the restoration stage this year to possibly start it up. Is there a TM that goes through this process? I have looked through the engine manuals and have come up empty, or possibly overlooked it?. TYIA

 

[cattlerepairman]

This is a thread I found: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/reviving-a-multifuel.124585/

I have never revived a crate engine/preserved engine but dealt with unknown takeouts.

- using starter or wrench verify that engine turns over. If it doesn't, stop here; there is not going to be a "quick" process
- fluid levels and condition (i.e. crankcase overfilled, very low viscosity/fuel in oil/coolant in oil)
- check overhead (valve lash) and adjust as needed
- take cover off and check that shutoff mechanism is free
- set harmonic balancer to timing mark and check injection timing (i.e. injection pump was not simply slapped on but not set) - easy when you have the shutoff cover off already.

Have 2x6 or 2x8 board handy to block air intake "just in case"

Ready to ground hop the engine. If it fires and runs, let it warm up, check for leaks. Even if no coolant/no rad fitted, the engine can be run for five minutes or so. Then time to change oil and filters, fuel filters etc. Normal maintenance.

 

[Mullaney]

Hi Folks,
My quest to find an answer regarding getting a Multifuel prepped before starting after being in preservation. I found one thread in the search function but it wasn't as in depth as I needed. I bought it a few years back and now I am at the restoration stage this year to possibly start it up. Is there a TM that goes through this process? I have looked through the engine manuals and have come up empty, or possibly overlooked it?. TYIA

Pay special attention to cattlerepairman's mention of Have 2x6 or 2x8 board handy to block air intake "just in case".
The goal there is for you to have a way to turn the motor off it starts to run away.

Any time you have a newly minted motor, having a way to make it stop NOW is really important.
Spend a few minutes. Put a handle on the block of wood to keep your fingers from being mashed.

Your goal is to completely eliminate air intake at the turbo or air inlet BEFORE the filter and other soft pipe leading in.
It can't run if it has no air. Pulling the fuel shutoff may not work...

.

 

[frank8003]

That engine is designed for ALL the lube oil to drain to the pan on shutdown, as per design.

You like the motor then dump a few quarts of specified lube oil in the top of her and turn it a few times with a wrench and then take excess out the drain plug and do it again maybe few times.
Your motor, Can't hurt

 

[Greensick]

This is a thread I found: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/reviving-a-multifuel.124585/

I have never revived a crate engine/preserved engine but dealt with unknown takeouts.

- using starter or wrench verify that engine turns over. If it doesn't, stop here; there is not going to be a "quick" process
- fluid levels and condition (i.e. crankcase overfilled, very low viscosity/fuel in oil/coolant in oil)
- check overhead (valve lash) and adjust as needed
- take cover off and check that shutoff mechanism is free
- set harmonic balancer to timing mark and check injection timing (i.e. injection pump was not simply slapped on but not set) - easy when you have the shutoff cover off already.

Have 2x6 or 2x8 board handy to block air intake "just in case"

Ready to ground hop the engine. If it fires and runs, let it warm up, check for leaks. Even if no coolant/no rad fitted, the engine can be run for five minutes or so. Then time to change oil and filters, fuel filters etc. Normal maintenance.

All GREAT information and good find on the search link. Thank you!

 

[Greensick]

Pay special attention to cattlerepairman's mention of Have 2x6 or 2x8 board handy to block air intake "just in case".
The goal there is for you to have a way to turn the motor off it starts to run away.

Any time you have a newly minted motor, having a way to make it stop NOW is really important.
Spend a few minutes. Put a handle on the block of wood to keep your fingers from being mashed.

Your goal is to completely eliminate air intake at the turbo or air inlet BEFORE the filter and other soft pipe leading in.
It can't run if it has no air. Pulling the fuel shutoff may not work...

.

I believe we had that happen to us when I fired up the old engine after sitting for 9 years. Surely be ready for it this time. Want all those parts that are new to each other to become friends nicely....not in a bashing kinda way! Thank you!

 

[Greensick]

That engine is designed for ALL the lube oil to drain to the pan on shutdown, as per design.

You like the motor then dump a few quarts of specified lube oil in the top of her and turn it a few times with a wrench and then take excess out the drain plug and do it again maybe few times.
Your motor, Can't hurt
[/QUOTE

I agree, prelube sounds like a smart concept. Thank you!

 

[fleetmech]

I second the idea of spreading some oil through the top end, and also recommend you pre-lube the turbo (if it has one). Pull the oil feed line off and put a few ounces through to make sure the turbo doesn't spin up while dry. I feel these are extra important steps on an engine thats known to build oil pressure a bit slowly...

 

[98G]

@Floridianson posted a good writeup specific to an NH250 a while back but I can't find it now. It'll also be relevant to the multifuel...

 

[Recovry4x4]

Here you can see the piece of wood to block the turbo in case of a runaway.
Groundhopping the Multifuel 1 - YouTube

 

[tommys2patrick]

If you have never done the board method of cutting off the engine's air intake before, there are a couple things to remember. if you take the mushroom cap off the air cleaner body and block the remaining big hole with a board it may not kill the engine. there is a second hole on the rear of the air cleaner housing that you will need to block. an air line via a small copper tube goes to the air cleaner body as well. needs to be removed and the hole blocked. now you have to assume you have no air leaks anywhere else in the system such as from an old rubber hose or clamp or crack in a fitting. the multifuel will suck the chrome off a trailer ball hitch to keep from starving. my two cents.

 

[Greensick]

If you have never done the board method of cutting off the engine's air intake before, there are a couple things to remember. if you take the mushroom cap off the air cleaner body and block the remaining big hole with a board it may not kill the engine. there is a second hole on the rear of the air cleaner housing that you will need to block. an air line via a small copper tube goes to the air cleaner body as well. needs to be removed and the hole blocked. now you have to assume you have no air leaks anywhere else in the system such as from an old rubber hose or clamp or crack in a fitting. the multifuel will suck the chrome off a trailer ball hitch to keep from starving. my two cents.

I appreciate the time and effort with the info towards this. Thank you all.

 

[frank8003]

Some had some good comments in here

Government rebuilt engine LDT-465-1D

I am looking for a government rebuilt LDT engine. I guess most have been rebuilt in the early 1990"s. What am I looking at in replacement? Can I hopefully install the engine with new oil and filters and light her up and enjoy the drive? Or am I looking at a can of worms? If I am, what is...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[cattlerepairman]

@Greensick If you do NOT post a video of your engine coughing to life, you MIGHT get into big trouble now!

 

[Greensick]

@Greensick If you do NOT post a video of your engine coughing to life, you MIGHT get into big trouble now!

When the attempt is made, I promise the video. Will be some time before this happens though! Hoping this summer...We shall see.

 

[Greensick]

Some had some good comments in here

Government rebuilt engine LDT-465-1D

I am looking for a government rebuilt LDT engine. I guess most have been rebuilt in the early 1990"s. What am I looking at in replacement? Can I hopefully install the engine with new oil and filters and light her up and enjoy the drive? Or am I looking at a can of worms? If I am, what is...

www.steelsoldiers.com

After reading through that thread, Rusty Stud speaks about pumping oil through an Plugged oil port. Where would be the best port to feed to get oil where it needs to be before the start., minus the rockers which I can do independently.

 

[frank8003]

After reading through that thread, Rusty Stud speaks about pumping oil through an Plugged oil port. Where would be the best port to feed to get oil where it needs to be before the start., minus the rockers which I can do independently.

start a conversation with rustystud
He knows and might even answer you

 

[frank8003]

Learned people at SS give you this. see start post 15?

Help identify noise

My multifuel has been making a "clack, clack" noise for some time, perhaps for 6,000 miles now. It comes from the upper portion of the engine and occurs about 3 to 4 times/second at approx 800 rpm. Hard to tell, but could be #5 or #6 piston. It is more pronounced at low rpms and can not be heard...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[frank8003]

The ports


and something to read too

 

[frank8003]

find something like this for your engine