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Undercoating Thoughts?

231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
Hey all, just had a quick question... I'd make this a poll but I wanna know all the unique ideas I bet y'all got! What is the BEST way to undercoat a vehicle on a reasonable budget in your opinion? Looking for DIY solutions! The M1009 I have is 97% rust free, and if there was any, it's a very tiny tiny speck that can easily be dealt with, but since I moved to the north east, and salt will be on the roads, I wanna protect that bare metal. I was thinking of using a spray can rust reformer, without the sticky rubberized undercoating stuff in fear of moisture traps. Will paint be enough? Any thoughts? Give me what you got, and if you have experiences, tell me how it held up through the months/years!
 
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ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
I just purchased an extremely clean M1009. I am going to purchase Eastwood's Anti-Rust and spray it all over and inside the rails, doors, fenders etc. It is a self healing wax formula and supposedly pretty good (think Ziebart). $150 should get the truck done.

I would have loved to use WAXOYL (SP?), but it is waaayyyyy to expensive.
 
231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
I heard of that stuff, and I wanted to use it... I know the frame and wheel wells could use a fresh coat of paint. Think I should do that first then use a wax formula? Think that a few coats or rust reformer will hold up to the elements/salt for a few years? Appreciate the input!
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
Clean off everything really well, dry thoroughly, use the rust reformer anywhere there is surface rust, then paint with chassis black to seal it up well. Rubberized undercoat for the wheel wells should prove durable (get quality stuff), but definitely use the anti-rust waxy rust proofing stuff in all the other places. That stuff will seep into all the knooks, crannies and seams and really does a good job of keeping moisture out and thus rust from forming.
 
231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
I have like a dozen cans of the rust reformer and I as thinking just to slap it on anything I have access to! The chassis factory pain is solid and didn't look like it's damaged in the slightest. I'll probably pray it everywhere, then hit it with a wax product. (Gonna add a 4" lift soon to her, that's when I'll do it all!) Also, how long do those wax products last??
 
231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
Good stuff, thanks for the info, hopefully I can pick some up when I get the $$$$... that stuff doesn't cake with dirt, grime or mud at all? The only offroading I ever do is a dirt road really! Sorry for all the questions :)
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
Not really sure about the last question and I am by no means an expert. I have used the waxy stuff inside frame rails, doors, tailgate and up and down the insides of fenders front and rear. Also don't forget the cowl area and anywhere else that water could get trapped. Look at a rusty blazer and go from there.

Just take your time and do it right and get everything. Cheaper than chasing rust ! Good luck.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
Use just paint and one of the wax overcoats as an annual maintenance. An type of rhino liner or other surface liner will allow it to rust underneath and you will not know until it is to late. I could not save my first 1009 because the inside was rhino lined.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,398
10,132
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
021.jpgI have been using this the last 25 years. It works well and keeps everything well coated. I have all my vehicles sprayed with it. And I also spray all the vehicles I have apart under the hood ,inner fenders, and battery boxes. stays nice for years. I have several vehicles Line Xed inside. I never have any trouble with Line X unless someone is dumb enough to spray over rust with it. Then of course it will rust from the bottom side. No way to rust from top side with the sealer properly installed. I had 1 vehicle with the Durabak brush in liner. that is total garbage. Every little scratch caused a major rust spot. My Son had one of my M1009 at Fort Drum for 3 years. New York death salt. And the Line X lining inside held up with no issues at all. I cleaned the inside and it still looks like new inside. I use that truck as my logging M1009 Crown of Thorns and the Line X is the ticket for saws and tools that are sharp.
 
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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I agree Waxoil is great but pricey. Anything that will leave an oily film will do wonders. The best way is to stay out of that calcium slush and wash immediately if you do. Highly recommend drilling small holes in your panels and spraying in with a wand.

I'm not a big fan of the rubberized undercoat. I personally think it just simply traps moisture and does nothing to protect. It sure does hide rust damage till it has spread to far. Then again, it sure does hid rust damage when you want to sell something too so I always stay away from the stuff.
 

wheelspinner

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,749
1,518
113
Location
North Carolina - FINALLY !
I lived in NY most of my life, you can possibly delay the rust, but any exposure to salt will get it eventually. If its that clean, do your self a favor and drive something else in the winter.
 
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