Understanding Deuces

[steelypip]

I use cribbing (2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 scraps) under the cars too! A ton on your ribcage will kill you just as well as ten will.

 

[oddshot]

What would I need to, for example, replace a wheel cylinder?

Unless you got a set ... you'd probably want to have line wrenches to help out with the fittings.

Having a double flaring set and learning to use it is pretty handy too.

Also some (OK ... a LOT) liquid wrench, rustbust, CRC, kerosene & ATF or other penetratin' oil would be good to keep around.

You do know that you need DOT 5 brake fluid for this truck ...

oddshot

 

[Darwin T]

the first picture is an older style dash (upgraded from a1 i think. second one is the 70+ dash. 3rd pict - most m109a3's are non-turbo (i guess to keep the noise down while working in the box. 4th pict - m35a2 with turbo. no noticable difference between them, (if you install a pyro gauge you can turn the fuel up on a turbo and get more power. M35a3 is not a multi fuel it is a cat engine. for multi fuel diesel, kero, engine oil (new or used, ect works fine. gasoline you get less MPG and you need to add 1 quart of engine oil per (15 gallons recomended) i add 1 quart to 10 gallons so you don't dry out you seals. turbos have to warm up and down. non-turbos when you get some where you can just turn it off (better when you can smell the steaks in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot and you are hungy). a1 and 2's are 5 speed manual and a3's are automatics. a3's are usually singled out if they have a centeral tire inflation system, (never saw an a3 with duals) a2 winches are pto a3 winches are hydrolic. . "C" turbos are wlister and "D" are large. thats all i can think of right now.

 

[treeguy]

Don't over rev. it, don't bog it down. Only use the above mentioned brake fluid. Be aware of you exhaust colors. Don't expect to get anywhere in a hurry. Don't draw (if much) 12v from the first battery (you'll start issues). Some say leaks are normal, just depends which ones. Degrease your engine so you can see what is leaking and where. Be aware of date codes on tires (old 3 number codes will probably dry rot/crack). Just buy the truck already. Pay attention to coolant levels (head gasket issues). Leave plenty of stopping distance, she'll stop but she's not great at evasive manuvers. Keep an eye on front axle boots for tears and leaking. Most cabs don't keep out the weather. The personell/cab water powered heater won't work right if its hoses are connected in the wrong place. Never force any of the gear shifters into gear, you'll break internal parts - some have to double clutch. Crappy transmissions can pop out of gear esp. 4th. Don't drive like an idiot and make other hobbiests look bad. Stock up on extra 24v bulbs. If you lack power, the usual answer you'll get is "check your fuel and air filters" (fuel = 3). There is a huge debate on gear lube, don't ask, just read about it. If you want wider/bigger tires, the safest route is with wider rims (most often modified HEMTT's) you can cram them on stock wheels but will rub and can be unsafe. Bigger tires may make you top end faster mph, but some argue that you loose your get up and go from a stop. Find a copper flaring tool from Home Depot or somewhere. The main fuel lines are copper and if you mangle a fitting or such you will have the capability of reusing the line with a new fitting.

Just some off the bat pointers. I use mine as a daily driver like some here. Sometimes fixing things can be done by creativity and fabbing from scratch. A lot of fun in this hobby is creating things by yourself to fit your needs. Did I say already, just buy the truck?

 

[rpollitt01]

Great post treeguy!....That is alot of good info!

 

[Brad Nitzke]

Other than that I don't have a recommendation on turbo vs non turbo. The non turbo will more than likely has less power and will smoke a bit more.

i would have to disagre with this one. i have drove a few trucks. Turbo and NON-Turbo, and i must say the non- has more power.

 

[Brad Nitzke]

View attachment 268638

If its a true Marines truck it should have possi lock Diffs.

 

[mcmullag]

Read steel soldiers twice a day, morning and nite

Read on here a lot and you will learn mucho!.
Check out the PS magazine things somewhere on this site.
Google your questions or interests about the duece or the M35a2,
and threads for this site will pop up.
Join a MV club or find someone in your area to tag along with.
I found my buddy bulldogmack13 here and bought a truck from him
3 years ago, sold that truck and bought another but we are still pals helping each other out.

 

[one eye]

i bought my truck almost three months ago and could not b happier. a truck that gets used often stay in shape. i drive mine as a daily driver and have only replaced a few cheap parts. it loves diesel so give it what it loves and it will take care of u

 

[John S-B]

i would have to disagre with this one. i have drove a few trucks. Turbo and NON-Turbo, and i must say the non- has more power.

There's NO WAY that a non-turbo engine has more power than the same engine with a turbo unless something is wrong with the turbo'd engine. A turbo is an upgrade in power. That's why they add turbo's, to get more power out of the same block. It crams more air into the cylinder, and should be more efficient as well.

 

[Welder Sam]

I have a spec sheet frm Memphis Equipment Co that ill quote for some ref so ya can research stuff on ur own a bit more. No offense to anyone but its always a good idea to validate what is said. Opinions arent fact until they are indeed validated

ENGINES
Continental/Herules
OA331=127HP
LD-465-1=149HP
LDT-465-1C=160HP

TRANSMISSIONS

SPICER = 5spd Syncromesh
Model3052=5th direct
Model3053=5th overdrive

Transfercases
Rockwell 2speed
Model........T-136-21
Model(airshift)...T-136-27
Gear ratio... High 1:1, Low 1.98:1

AXLES
Rockwell/Timken:.... Double Reduction/Full Floating
Front.......FC-249HX1
Rear........CF-240HX3
Ratio.......6.72:1
Front rating.....11,000lbs
Rear tandem rating...28,000lbs

STEERING
Ross(Manual)...TA-67171

BRAKES
Wagner/Bendix.... Air/Hydraulic (personal noteLEASE NOTE THE SPELLING HERE)
Parking Brake...... Manual,Dual Grip

ELECTRICAL
24VDC

TIRE SIZE
9.00×20

WHEELBASE
Short.............CT 72"
Long..............CT 84"
Extra-long.....CT 120"



I personally take no responsibility for these numbers as idk what "upgades/mods" they do to these trucks.

 

[Warthog]

One thing I am wondering about is how 'heavy' a shop one needs for the care and feeding of a Deuce.

You can be like me and only need a Shade Tree to work under. No air compressor, No Welder, No Cutting torch.

Only special item I realy have is a HF Chain hoist for removing the transmission.

All the other tools are your standard 3/8", 1/2" and 1" drive sets, screwdrivers, wrenches, etc. And a Voltmeter.

That will cover 95+% of the Deuce items.

 

[Darwin T]

There's NO WAY that a non-turbo engine has more power than the same engine with a turbo unless something is wrong with the turbo'd engine. A turbo is an upgrade in power. That's why they add turbo's, to get more power out of the same block. It crams more air into the cylinder, and should be more efficient as well.

if you don't install a pyro gauge and turn up the fuel they have about the same power. the turbo was to reduce the smoke from the exhaust (the name clean air exhaust system) i have 2 with turbo's (M35a2's) and one without (M109a3) the M109a3 weighs 3,000 pounds more but has almost the same power and gets about the same MPG.

 

[Tlauden]

I have a non-turbo and it has plenty of power... Now I've never drove a turbo'd truck yet so I can't compare.

OP. Go ahead and get one! I promise you'll love it. The systems really aren't tricky to work on if your familiar with vehicles. Everything is just ALOT bigger and like it's been said before. Search is your freind here on this site.

Good luck!!!
Tyler

 

[plym49]

Unless you got a set ... you'd probably want to have line wrenches to help out with the fittings.

Having a double flaring set and learning to use it is pretty handy too.

Also some (OK ... a LOT) liquid wrench, rustbust, CRC, kerosene & ATF or other penetratin' oil would be good to keep around.

You do know that you need DOT 5 brake fluid for this truck ...

oddshot

Line wrenches, single and doule flaring tools, all that sort of thing I have. Same with multimeters that can handle a 24v system. What I don't have (and, obviously, would have to get) are larger capacity bottle jacks and 3/4" and 1" socket sets.

I also don't have a backhoe like some of you guys have, so swinging out an engine would require some rigging. (I like lifting heavy things.)

So far, you all are very encouraging. Hey, even though my shop is far better equipped than average, as I said it is on the car/light truck end of the scale. I walk into a heavy equipment shop and wow! -- there is a lot of heavy duty stuff I don't have.

 

[plym49]

the first picture is an older style dash (upgraded from a1 i think. second one is the 70+ dash. 3rd pict - most m109a3's are non-turbo (i guess to keep the noise down while working in the box. 4th pict - m35a2 with turbo. no noticable difference between them, (if you install a pyro gauge you can turn the fuel up on a turbo and get more power. M35a3 is not a multi fuel it is a cat engine. for multi fuel diesel, kero, engine oil (new or used, ect works fine. gasoline you get less MPG and you need to add 1 quart of engine oil per (15 gallons recomended) i add 1 quart to 10 gallons so you don't dry out you seals. turbos have to warm up and down. non-turbos when you get some where you can just turn it off (better when you can smell the steaks in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot and you are hungy). a1 and 2's are 5 speed manual and a3's are automatics. a3's are usually singled out if they have a centeral tire inflation system, (never saw an a3 with duals) a2 winches are pto a3 winches are hydrolic. . "C" turbos are wlister and "D" are large. thats all i can think of right now.

Good advice, thanks. I kind of like the '5 minutes idling' before and after requirement. It gives you a chance to finish a cup of coffee like a gentleman.

 

[plym49]

Don't over rev. it, don't bog it down. Only use the above mentioned brake fluid. Be aware of you exhaust colors. Don't expect to get anywhere in a hurry. Don't draw (if much) 12v from the first battery (you'll start issues). Some say leaks are normal, just depends which ones. Degrease your engine so you can see what is leaking and where. Be aware of date codes on tires (old 3 number codes will probably dry rot/crack). Just buy the truck already. Pay attention to coolant levels (head gasket issues). Leave plenty of stopping distance, she'll stop but she's not great at evasive manuvers. Keep an eye on front axle boots for tears and leaking. Most cabs don't keep out the weather. The personell/cab water powered heater won't work right if its hoses are connected in the wrong place. Never force any of the gear shifters into gear, you'll break internal parts - some have to double clutch. Crappy transmissions can pop out of gear esp. 4th. Don't drive like an idiot and make other hobbiests look bad. Stock up on extra 24v bulbs. If you lack power, the usual answer you'll get is "check your fuel and air filters" (fuel = 3). There is a huge debate on gear lube, don't ask, just read about it. If you want wider/bigger tires, the safest route is with wider rims (most often modified HEMTT's) you can cram them on stock wheels but will rub and can be unsafe. Bigger tires may make you top end faster mph, but some argue that you loose your get up and go from a stop. Find a copper flaring tool from Home Depot or somewhere. The main fuel lines are copper and if you mangle a fitting or such you will have the capability of reusing the line with a new fitting.

Just some off the bat pointers. I use mine as a daily driver like some here. Sometimes fixing things can be done by creativity and fabbing from scratch. A lot of fun in this hobby is creating things by yourself to fit your needs. Did I say already, just buy the truck?

Thanks,m great info.

In my old age I tend to drive things that I have to fix myself just like Grandma would. No longer into replacing broken axles and the like. I also like fabricating, but I do my best to avoid slim shadying things (LOL, I hope so, anyway).

The truck I am looking at has had Goodyear 11.00/22 radials installed, singles in the rear. And it has an air shifter to engage the front axle.

I am not sure that it was originally a Marine vehicle. It might have been logo'd as such by its present owner.

 

[plym49]

Well, thanks to the support and advice from you all, and also from a week of no power, phone or internet thanks to the storm (forces you to act for yourself) I have found an M35A2 and should close the deal this week. Seems like a solid truck (knock wood). Not a whistler, though. Wish me luck; I will report back.

 

[Junkyard Wars Crusher]

<snip>. . . " Don't drive like an idiot and make other hobbiests look bad. " . . . . <snip>

Well said.

 

[houdel]

One other special tool you WILL want to get is a Budd Wheel Nut Combo Socket, unless your 3/4" or 1" socket sets include both a 1-1/2" hex and a 13/16" square sockets. I think I still have a few around, PM me if interested. My classified ad for these got lost when the site was upgraded & I haven't posted a new ad yet, but here is a link to an earlier posting about them:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/5629-wts-budd-wheel-combo-sockets-cheaper-yet.html