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* Urgent TM help req. MEP009 Genset*

NEIOWA

Well-known member
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NE IOWA
Mounted on M832 dolly set (10000lb capacity 9900lb genset). Frame rails are 5"x5" box with a 2"x2" angle for a bolt flange. Dolly allows us to set unit on the ground for operation. Still need to splice in civ trailer light connector and install safety chains.
 

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Rkrug

Member
384
5
18
Location
Hays,KS
Bump for the oldie
Looking for the TM for the 009A model if any one has a copy or knows where to get one.
 

Warthog

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Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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OKC, OK
I just checked LOGSA and as of 4-20-2016 the manuals for the MEP-009 series are still restricted to military personnel. The only manuals for the general public are the Lube Order and the Hand receipt.
 

Rkrug

Member
384
5
18
Location
Hays,KS
I was able to get some bits and pieces, shoot me your email an I will send you what I have.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

turnerman

Member
105
33
18
Location
landrum, sc
I know this is an old tread but my Mep009 runs only in battle short. I need the voltage regulator schematic and parts listing. Specifically looking at q1 which was rusted loose but no discernible markings. Help please. Thanks
 

Guyfang

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The MEP-009B is one of the few DED gen sets I never laid a hand on. BUT, they all are kinda, somewhat , sorta, laid out the same way. So, if the gen set runs for longer then 15-20 min, its not a fuel shortage problem. If it wont run that long, try looking at the 3 way fuel valve. If its not set in the right position, (Like in AUX position) then the fuel pumps can not send fuel to a day tank. But if it runs longer, then I would try looking for a FL1/FL2 fuel float switch in the Day tank. The day tank is not the belly fuel tank. Its a small tank. One of the floats could be shot, giving a no fuel reading, and shutting off the set. I will try and see if I can get smart on the MEP-009B, and then we can know, rather then guess whats wrong.
 

Guyfang

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OK, got smart on it. Yes it has a day tank. And FL1/FL2 float. And 3 way valve. Pull out the float switch. It may have one, or two black floats on it. Check it with a multimeter. Pins A&B should be FL2 and C&D should be FL1.

f. Day Tank. The day tank has a fuel capacity to
permit engine operation for a minimum of 5 minutes. It
provides a settling point for contaminants, to prevent
their entry into the engine, and supplies fuel to the
engine fuel pump. The tank contains a dual type float
switch. The upper float operates in conjunction with the
fuel solenoid valve L2 to maintain a predetermined fuel
level in the tank. The lower float initiates an engine
shutdown sequence in the event that the fuel level in the
tank will permit operation of the generator set, at rated
load, for only 1 minute.

5-59. FUEL LEVEL SWITCHES FL1 and FL2. The
following paragraphs provide inspection, test, service,
and replacement instructions for either of fuel level
switches FL1 or FL2 (figure 4-46).

b. Test.
(1) Remove electrical connector (1, figure 4-46)
from fuel level switch (10), then unscrew switch from
day tank (9).
(2) Support switch in vertical position (electrical
connector on top). Connect an ohmmeter between
connector pins C and D. Meter should indicate
continuity. Raise lower float to upper limit. Meter
should not indicate continuity.
(3) Connect ohmmeter between pins A and B.
Meter should indicate continuity. Raise upper float to
upper limit. Meter should not indicate continuity.
4) Replace fuel level switch (10) (if defective) then
connect electrical connector (1).

1693258050577.png
 

turnerman

Member
105
33
18
Location
landrum, sc
I will check this tomorrow. Some history on the unit. The q1 transistor on voltage regulator board was overheated and loose. The fuel gauge pegged full and battle on would generate and run until day tank runs out. Battle off and dies with fuel light on. Soldered q1 transistor back and it ran perfect for 20 minutes then quit low fuel and fuel level pegged again. Replaced q1 and same problem. Checked 5 diodes so far but a few more to check. Replaced q2. Will check rest of diodes on voltage regulator tomorrow and your info. It’s like the fuel solenoid is not receiving power to fill day tank.
 

Guyfang

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The Day Tank fuel solenoid gets its signal from the FL1/FL2 switch. What I normally do is pull the FL1/FL2 switch out of the day tank, hook the C-plug back up, and turn the switch up side down. Then turn the set on, to the run position. Don't start it, just the S2 in the run position. Then hold the floats in the position they are in, and turn the switch back upright the way it mounts in the day tank. Move the top float all the way down as far as it can go. That is the replenish signal to the solenoid, to open. The fuel pumps should come on. Move it up, the solenoid should close and the pumps should stop pumping. Then you can test the bottom float. It should turn on the idiot light on the fault indicator and cut power off to the L1, (Fuel cut off for the IP) Keep in mind, the fuel pumps should be always hot. The day tank solenoid opens and closes, and that's what starts and stops the Electric fuel pumps.

The -34, If we had it, has a wonderful troubleshooting diagram on how to test the whole system. If you are in a pinch, the MEP-006A -34 TM is usable for this testing. Its very close to the exact same fuel system.
 

turnerman

Member
105
33
18
Location
landrum, sc
The solenoid valve is weak so removed spring for now with new ordered to replace. Found it not working by tapping on it as floats were operated back and forth. Floats work properly to solenoid now but the pumps don’t operate in run mode but only in battle short. The 24v dc circuit must have something going on.
 
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