Using a pallet jack to install/remove super singles

[fasttruck]

There are purpose built wheel/tire jacks available which resemble pallet jacks with shorter legs. Need hard floor as mentioned and usually brought out for HEMMET wheels and such. M35 and 809 series wheel/tire assemblies should be doabe with some type bar to lift it to the hub. The handle for the issue lug wrench will work if nothing else is available. Served in a truck company with 957 11:00X20 tires so we did a lot of tire work.

 

[m715mike]

There are purpose built wheel/tire jacks available which resemble pallet jacks with shorter legs.

I have one of these at the shop. I can grab a picture if anyone is interested.

 

[Floridianson]

This is an interesting idea, I'm due to do my hubs soon. Following

Changing a tire and servicing the hubs are a little different. Here is a wheel dolly that is more used for hub service. It will help remove both tires in a duel set up still attached to the hub. Makes easy work for doing brake / oil seal work. Yea works best on hard flat service. Also it has the screw jack on the back side so you can level the whole tire / hub to meet the axle angle. This happens when / if you only jack up one side of the axle the wheel dolly can match it so you do not damage seals on install and helps with removal.

 

[HDN]

Or simply use your brain. Walk tire in and let the jack holding the truck down so that you can lean the tire on the hub etc. Then jack it back up to lift the tire up and slide the tire in.

I'm going to give this a try. Will the tire support itself while deflated, or should I inflate it a bit?

 

[simp5782]

I'm going to give this a try. Will the tire support itself while deflated, or should I inflate it a bit?

Air it up to the proper spec

 

[HDN]

I found out that the forks on my pallet jack aren't wide enough apart to fit under one of these tires, and I didn't want to jack the truck higher, so I did it @simp5782 's way. Actually, I had it up high enough such that I didn't even have to use a pry bar!

The front passenger tire was flat and I didn't want to try to inflate it since I knew it had sidewall damage. Regardless, I managed to walk the tire off the hub without rubbing the stud threads and wheeled it over to my work space. For a scarity cat like me, I was surprised I was able to do this, so I'lladd it to my resume Tonight I hope to get the rim pulled apart, and maybe dismount the tire tomorrow.

I have a bit of rust treatment to do on the brake drum, and I expect the same for the rim.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I'm sure Noone here uses the chain on the beadlock studs to pull back on the tire to seat the lug nuts correctly

I had my M936A2 wrecker towed commerically from Camp Ripley, One of the rear most wheels did not have the lug nuts in the recesses of the rim. I'm surprised it stayed on for the tow, let alone while the NG was using it.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Or simply use your brain. Walk tire in and let the jack holding the truck down so that you can lean the tire on the hub etc. Then jack it back up to lift the tire up and slide the tire in.

I use that method with a twist, Put some flat wood under the tire to walk it in and out easier.

 

[simp5782]

I had my M936A2 wrecker towed commerically from Camp Ripley, One of the rear most wheels did not have the lug nuts in the recesses of the rim. I'm surprised it stayed on for the tow, let alone while the NG was using it.

Using the chain method makes a2 centering alot easier cause they are pretty unfriendly to get seated vs an a1

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Using the chain method makes a2 centering alot easier cause they are pretty unfriendly to get seated vs an a1

Haven't tried or heard of it till now, it was a tough cookie by myself. Thanks! I actually have to change out one shortly so I'll give it try when I do.

 

[HDN]

Using the chain method makes a2 centering alot easier cause they are pretty unfriendly to get seated vs an a1

Would this be applicable to M35A3 rims too? I'm not familiar with this method - have any pics?

 

[simp5782]

Would this be applicable to M35A3 rims too? I'm not familiar with this method - have any pics?

Yes.

You need 2 extra beadlock nuts Chain goes over bead stud secured by a few threads with the nut and out around the tire to a beadlock stud on the other side. Then after your tire Is on the studs with a few out nuts you pull back on the Chain pulling the tire back onto the taper on the lug nut then keep a little pressure and use your hand impact gun to run down two opposite side lugs to seat the tire and wheel equally then tighten down the rest and remove the Chain

This works well on the funky 939a2 hubs.

You can use a small Chain and use some clip hooks or some type of clip on eyelit on each end that can go over the beadlock studs

Works well on steers and on LMTVs since the beadlock studs face out

 

[HDN]

Yes.

You need 2 extra beadlock nuts Chain goes over bead stud secured by a few threads with the nut and out around the tire to a beadlock stud on the other side. Then after your tire Is on the studs with a few out nuts you pull back on the Chain pulling the tire back onto the taper on the lug nut then keep a little pressure and use your hand impact gun to run down two opposite side lugs to seat the tire and wheel equally then tighten down the rest and remove the Chain

This works well on the funky 939a2 hubs.

You can use a small Chain and use some clip hooks or some type of clip on eyelit on each end that can go over the beadlock studs

Works well on steers and on LMTVs since the beadlock studs face out

Ohhhh so this is for actually mounting the whole wheel back onto the truck! Making a chain handle attached to the rim to pull the wheel back toward the hub while tightening the lug nuts. Got it now I'll keep that in mind in case I have any trouble with that part!

I need to get a few tire/wheel terms straight, so please correct me if I'm wrong:

• Beadlock = half of a two-piece rim that's a bolt-on flange that keeps the tire secured to the rim, secured with beadlock nuts or bolts
• Beadlock insert = sleeve that goes in the tire opening to keep the tire on the rim when tire pressure is low
• Runflat insert = kind of a backup wheel that goes inside the tire to provide support to the wheel if the tire loses air pressure to keep the vehicle from riding directly on the rim

 

[Floridianson]

Myself walking the tire on then a push on the top and the a top stud has enough threads to put on a nut or two. With my foot I push on the bottom of the tire and that gives my enough threads to get on a nut. Then working the wheel around starting all the nuts. The front is easer as no brake chamber or a truck that has no brake chambers as in Deuce or 809 series. When working with a brake chamber I can cage that can in less than a minute when the tire is off. Caged or no brake can I can spin the tire and the nuts / studs will start to line up with the wheel and correct seating. When one or two start to line up I just run the nut in finger tight till it touches the wheel and when all nuts are correct on the wheel and then I torque them down with torque wrench. To old to fight wheels / tires or lift anything. What some are forgetting is what are you going to do on the side of the road without your wood or pallet jacks. Learn to walk them on and you can change a tire anywhere and time.

 

[frank8003]

Bought a pallet jack for 100 bucks to work the Deuce. Swapped all the wheels/tires around many times.
Ended up with best condition and new everything on the steer axles.
Then confidence allowed me to use her for a few hundred engine hours.
That jack made it mo safe for me to do. Then I sold the jack and got my 100 back.