Utility Trailer Adapter for Truck

[TiGWolf]

When I first started on the idea of pulling a standard 2-5/16 hitch trailer behind the truck, I went back and forth deciding whether to mod the truck or the trailer. I hated the idea of slapping some redneck looking abortion to the truck, and instead went the more expensive route of modding the trailer. The real trick however, is I wanted the trailer to still be usable on it's original mount.

So after searching for some time, I've decided that the best route for me to go is to design and build my own conversion kit to hook up a 24' Utility trailer and adapt it to the truck. After spending some time designing and load testing, this will work nicely and not be over complicated to build.





At first the design looked easy to build but discovered shortly that the angles were a bit tricky. It took a lot longer than I initially estimated, but with great success here it is!




I'm still waiting for some circuit components to build a DC-DC conversion to 12v, but I will post later when that is assembled.

Feedback is most welcome!

 

[doghead]

I wonder what a DOT inspection would say to that.

 

[TiGWolf]

I wonder what a DOT inspection would say to that.

If they can get away with this http://www.theburningplatform.com/?tag=white-trash-repairs it should pass just fine.

 

[doghead]

Many have simply bolted on factory built class V and IV hitches.

Just drill a few holes.

 

[porkysplace]

I would be worried about cracking between the bolt holes , alot of stress transfering there. I have never seen a ball than didn't hace some movement to the coupler.

 

[swbradley1]

What finite element modeling software did you use? I used to support systems back in the day running Patran and Ansys. Just curious.

 

[TiGWolf]

What finite element modeling software did you use? I used to support systems back in the day running Patran and Ansys. Just curious.

Solidworks

 

[TiGWolf]

After completion of the circuitry to drop the voltage, I went to a local landscaper supply to get a load of dirt for a road test.


Also unloaded the dirt with a tractor. Everything worked out great.

 

[Vintage iron]

Nice work! Great idea and it keeps you truck original too. Don't worry about the Glum! "We are doomed" " It will never work"

 

[pucker97]

could ya tell me how ya got you voltage down to 12v i was wanting to pull my camper to some local mudfest with my m818

 

[clinto]

TiGWolf, I like it. Nice work. You addressed a problem I've had with adding civvy capability to M-series stuff for a long time.

And I agree there are some awful looking hitches out there.


I recently added a hitch to my M35A2C-pics can be seen here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...nother-M38A1&p=1252493&viewfull=1#post1252493


I wanted something that looked professional and clean and I wanted it tucked up as close to the frame as possible, so it would look normal (invisible would be ideal )and not lose too much departure angle.

Which led me to the next problem-The two trailers I pull are an equipment trailer and a smaller car hauler. The equipment trailer has a taller lunette, but the car hauler is a 2" ball hitch and it's low. I was able to put together a pintle/drawbar arrangement that worked with the equipment trailer, but nothing exists that has enough drop and enough weight capacity for me to pull the car hauler-it's just too low and necessitates too much of a drop.

An arrangement like yours would allow the car hauler to be used with the deuce.

Nice work! Great idea and it keeps you truck original too. Don't worry about the Glum! "We are doomed" " It will never work"

Come on man. Doghead's comments are entirely legitimate-it's a regulation and litigation heavy society. DOT, FMVSS and other regulations are entirely appropriate considerations, especially when you're making modifications like this.

 

[jwesley74]

I love the idea. We welded a Class V hitch to M923. Tucked it up under the Pintle about 1". Had to cut and narrow the hitch to fit the frame of the 923. We bought a 10" drop and it was perfect height. However, we sold the truck shortly thereafter. We just bought a 925 & 923. So we will be back to the same dilemma. We are pulling a 24' enclosed trailer to events. So I love this idea, and keep the truck stock. It was a lot of work locating a hitch then modifying it and mounting. This adapter could be moved trailer to trailer if needed. Also, post your DC conversion on here. Never did convert our DC. Never hooked the lights up. But I had planned on getting a 12/24 volt solenoid from KC Hilites. It would allow a 24v signal to 12v pass thru. So I was just going to get 2 of those and use signals from the Military plug and run 12v from the 12v lead off the batteries straight back. Figured that would solve the running and brake lights issue on the civvy trailer. Wasn't concerned about turn signals. Just having basics would have made our day.

 

[TiGWolf]

TiGWolf, I like it. Nice work. You addressed a problem I've had with adding civvy capability to M-series stuff for a long time.

And I agree there are some awful looking hitches out there.

Come on man. Doghead's comments are entirely legitimate-it's a regulation and litigation heavy society. DOT, FMVSS and other regulations are entirely appropriate considerations, especially when you're making modifications like this.

Oh I didn't disagree with him, it was more comical than to be argumentative. I was in doubt of how many put a design through engineering software prior to just slapping something together.

I'll post the wiring schematic as soon as I'm done drawing it out. I'm running LED's so the amperage is not nearly as high as running standard bulbs, if your needing a higher amperage than will have to add some more

 

[Cobra2401]

How did you make the adapter plug for towing trailers if you don't mind me asking. Thanks.

 

[quickfarms]

If they can get away with this http://www.theburningplatform.com/?tag=white-trash-repairs it should pass just fine.

That is funny

Curt makes a class v hitch that is the correct width for the frame. All you have to do is drill 6 holes and bolt it on

 

[jwesley74]

How did you make the adapter plug for towing trailers if you don't mind me asking. Thanks.

I used 3 KC Hilite 12/24 volt relays. Bought at Autozone for $7.99/ea. I ran a negative wire from 1 battery to the rear and ran that through the relays for my 12v power source. I pulled signal from the military trailer plug. As soon as I grounded the 7 way plug to the truck frame I got 12 volts to the trailer. So I am pulling a civilian enclosed trailer running 12 volts and everything works. Turn signals, brake lights & running lights. Since I'm getting signal from military trailer plug everything is switched too. I just used push connectors to plug in signal wires to military plug in back. So all I have to do is unplug the push connectors and I have the stock military plug again. Works great. I still don't understand why I get 12v off 1 negative post from 1 battery, but regardless it works and I checked voltage after I was done. It's only 12v going to trailer.

 

[jwesley74]

I love the idea. We welded a Class V hitch to M923. Tucked it up under the Pintle about 1". Had to cut and narrow the hitch to fit the frame of the 923. We bought a 10" drop and it was perfect height. However, we sold the truck shortly thereafter. We just bought a 925 & 923. So we will be back to the same dilemma. We are pulling a 24' enclosed trailer to events. So I love this idea, and keep the truck stock. It was a lot of work locating a hitch then modifying it and mounting. This adapter could be moved trailer to trailer if needed. Also, post your DC conversion on here. Never did convert our DC. Never hooked the lights up. But I had planned on getting a 12/24 volt solenoid from KC Hilites. It would allow a 24v signal to 12v pass thru. So I was just going to get 2 of those and use signals from the Military plug and run 12v from the 12v lead off the batteries straight back. Figured that would solve the running and brake lights issue on the civvy trailer. Wasn't concerned about turn signals. Just having basics would have made our day.

We ended up welding hitch again on our M925. This time we found hitch that was same width as frame. Used 2x4 1/4" square tube as filler and welded all together to truck frame. Painted camo and blends right in. Pulled 8,000 lbs with new hitch and did truck pulls with it. So it passed our stress test.