Valence's 1968 M101A1

[Valence]

I did some comparing of safety chains between my trailers tonight. It appears that the exact same safety chains and hooks were used on the 1.5 ton M105 and 3/4 ton Pioneer Tool Trailer and M101A1. The chains are about 24" long (not counting the hook) and the links ~0.4" in diameter. So I presume roughly 3/8" chain. I am unsure the grade of the chain used.

Also since my sample set has increased, I can tell that the former owner(s) of my 1960 Pioneer Tool trailer bent out the hooks.



Compare the above with my M101A1:



So that's fairly disappointing. I don't think I'll try to bend them back to continue to use them. I know we had the discussion here about using the quick links, but to be honest, I prefer slip hooks with the spring loaded clip anyway. I know myself, and I know would prefer both trailers to match each other. Therefore, on both trailers I'm still considering cutting off the chains and hook (reusing the stock bolt-on chain mounts) and replacing the chains with some Grade 70, 5/16" (overkill) or 3/8" (way overkill) yellow zinc coated chain with clevis slip hook. I think yellow zinc hardware looks real sharp when used on MVs.

Like the following:
Bolt on Trailer chain mount -> Double clevis link -> chain with clevis slip hook



For reference, Grade 70 Working Load Limit (WLL), see below. Per the TM, this M101A1 has a max GVW (highway) weight of 3590 lbs. So any chain with a WLL (which is, according to my reading, typically 1/3 of breaking strength) of 3600+ lbs is more than sufficient.

From US Cargo Control

 

[Mainsail]

I know we had the discussion here about using the quick links, but to be honest, I prefer slip hooks with the spring loaded clip anyway.

The quick link goes on your tow vehicle, not the trailer chains. The trailer chain hook engages the quick link hanging off your bumper.

 

[M813rc]

Previous owner probably bent the hooks out to get them to fit over the clevises on some MV's. I had one set like that on an M105 trailer that would not hook onto the M813 or M185, and several on others that you have to find just the right spot/angle and think clean thoughts to get them to attach.

Several of my more modern trailers have the hooks with the spring gate like in your picture, so those should look "right" on your trailer.
Nothing wrong with a little overkill on the chains.

Cheers

 

[Valence]

I've had it suggested to me that it may possible to add an M101A2's surge brake lunette end and then add wheel cylinders to the M101A1's axle. I couldn't find specific information on this, but I don't think that'd work??

Here is the back of the M101A1's axle end:




I didn't take a picture of the backside of axle end on my Pioneer Tool Trailer, but I know it uses the same wheels as the M101A1, but it has the older hand brake setup. Here is a picture of the Pioneer Tool trailer's internals (I'm not sure if the internals are the same as the M101A1.. it appears the hand brake enters near the top, and thus, would be different - or maybe just oriented differently...)

 

[Tinstar]

Dexter Axle makes complete backing plate brake kits for the hydraulic brakes. With or without parking brake.
Not bad prices.

They also make one that's called "free backing".
You can backup a loaded trailer and not have the hydraulic brakes apply.
On the regular hydraulic brakes you have to insert a lockout pin.

Worth giving them a call.

 

[Valence]

Dexter Axle makes complete backing plate brake kits for the hydraulic brakes.

Thank you Tinstar, but I don't have enough knowledge to know what you mean here. Are you meaning replace the internals of the drum from something Dexter sells and use the surge lunette from an M101A2?

 

[Tinstar]

Not just internals.
Unbolt the entire backing plate from the Axle and bolt on a complete new brake assembly.
You could ether go hydraulic or electric brakes just by whatever assembly you choose.
Of course with electric you would also need new drums, etc.

Sometimes its cheaper to do a new assembly than piecing together internal parts.

Gonto Dextar Axle and look at their hydraulic brake assembly's and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[juanprado]

There was a post from someone with a m37 here that used rear brake set up on a trailer. Not sure on how that would work out? I also am interested in doing this as I picked up a mismatched trailer with a m101a2 surge and m101a1 axle. I kept the surge unit to see if I could do this in the future.

The surge unit is an off the shelf commercial unit made by balcrank. I know croft and others carry it.

 

[Tinstar]

There is a complete Dexter hydraulic 12x2 set (L&R) on a well known auction site.
New take offs
Killer price

If you already have surge setup your $$$ ahead.

 

[Valence]

Unfortunately, no, I do not already have a surge set up.

 

[Tinstar]

I see them often for sale

still cheaper than a M101A2/3
prices on those are going up.

 

[McGuyver]

These pins and a non-matching clip came with the trailer, and were buried under snow and ice. I don't know where the clip goes, but if I had to guess, the pins are not original. 2.75" long x 0.50" in diameter, they do appear to fit the front fiberglass rack (where I have the zip-ties and wire as shown above in the first post), and the rear rack gates.

View attachment 668383 View attachment 668382

And here's a couple pics of how it looked when I picked it up - all snowed on. Fortunately, the added front jack is only clamped on and not welded like my pioneer tool trailer. And the civilian trailer plug is just wired into the military lights so, obviously, that'll have to change (or the bulbs or go LED).

View attachment 668385 View attachment 668386

If I had to guess, I'd say the round head pins go to you front rack piece. I think that's what I have on mine. I'll try to get a picture and post it later.

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[Valence]

If I had to guess, I'd say the round head pins go to you front rack piece. I think that's what I have on mine. I'll try to get a picture and post it later.

Apologies, I guess I never cleared that up. They do indeed fit and work for both the front rack and rear gates. Maybe slightly long as the "useable" area of the pin only needed to be ~2-1/8", but a little longer only make it easier to put in/remove the cotter pin if needed. I've ordered matching (flat top though) additional new pins via eBay.

Also, I'll call Mr. Gimpyrob today to see the progress on our double rack order.

 

[McGuyver]

I guess I never cleared that up. They do fit and work for both the front and rear. I've ordered additional new pins via eBay. I'll call Mr. Gimpyrob today to see the progress on our double rack order.

Sounds good. Thanks.

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[Valence]

I picked up the awesome palletized shipment from Mr. Gimpyrobb & ZiggyO of NOS fiberglass side racks and end gates. They are excellent!




The above label reads:
NSN 2510-01-389-0414
CAGE 54979
PN 12436773
SIDE RACK, VEHICLE B
1 EA
SPM7LX-07-D-7018

The catch though was that the racks were left-sides only and two pairs of end gates. Miraculously, my trailer came with a nice condition fiberglass front rack. So, for now, I'll use the one-piece front rack and just shelve the extra end gate pair. Maybe later I will want the ability to access through the front of the trailer and will make use of the other set of end gates on the front.

To make a left-side rack a right-side rack, it required removing and flipping over the top-most fiberglass board and also flipping the bow holder slots. A custom Chicago screw is used here with a *very* thin hex end (to be as flush as possible). However, I was able to undo the screws fairly easily (but very carefully) using the square shouldered open-end of a 5/16" wrench and a tightly pressed electric drill on the screw head. Obviously there isn't much to grab a hold of.



The trailer is looking better and better all the time.



I pinned it all together with new 1/2" in diameter, 2-3/4" long zinc yellow pins that I purchased on eBay from Niche Fasteners.



I only used the standard cotter pins for retention. I would like to perhaps try replacing them with bow-tie retention pins for easier rack removal.

 

[Storm 51]

If you use those extra gates on the front, you will find it is a very convenient upgrade.

I did it on mine and I am amazed at how much more useful it makes the trailer for very little work to install.

Just something to think about.

 

[McGuyver]

That's what I plan on doing with mine, as soon as I get around to drilling the holes in the front rail rail for the pins.

Zane, did you have to spread the flanges on the end gates at all to get them to fit? Mine are a bit tight, and will require some fitting to get them to work...
In any case, they look good and I look forward to getting them all installed.

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[gimpyrobb]

Looks real nice, glad your happy with your purchase. It looks like someone tweaked your rear landing leg mount pretty good!

 

[McGuyver]

Yeah, my cross member is bent even worse than Zane's. Trying to figure out the best way to bend it back without having to pull the bed off and put a pipe wrench on it...

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[bigbe5678]

I also put a duel gate on the front of my trailer. Very handy I can just step up on the frame and climb in my trailer. I bought the gates from Gimpyrobb... Great Guy