Warn locking hubs or Stock

[M1009 Fiend]

Like the post says i found a set of warm hubs at pick and pull and want to know if it is worth it to switch these.

And second does any one know the type of bolt needed to attach the warn hubs.
The stock bolts have to big of a head to fit on the warn hubs. And the bolts that came with the warn hubs are to small.

O and i have a m1009

Any help or suggestions welcome.

 

[doghead]

HMM, stock should be Warn.

 

[POOR WHITE BOY]

Stock and most warn hubs are the same

 

[jimm1009]

CUCV hubs

That is one other small differnce between Uncle's truck and the civy ones.
The civy units had an automatic hub that has no dial on it for manual engagement.
Uncle stipulated that he wanted manual hubs on his trucks so the Warn economy version of hub was installed at the factory.
jimm1009

PS: If you end buying new hubs the bolts will come with the hubs and also new o-rings too.

 

[M1009 Fiend]

Hmm they dont look the same.

The warm hubs are all metal and the stock ones have alot of plastic parts.

Jimm1009-like i said i pulled the parts at a local junk yard, and want to but the new bolt/o-ring kit but want to make sure i get the new blots right.

Here are pic of the warn hubs i take some of my skock hubs tomorrow.

 

[mangus580]

The hubs you show above are the Warn "Premium" hubs.... thats why.

 

[M1009 Fiend]

Mangus-Thanks ill go look it up an see where that gets me

 

[skark_burmer]

The stock hubs are made by Warn, but as you noticed a lot of the parts are plastic. They dont sell them anymore, but they used to be sold as the "standard" locking hubs, you could get them at JC Whitney last i saw them.
The Premium hubs had better seals and more metal parts and a slightly more robust spline unit. Some parts are interchangeable, but most folks just replace the entire unit and clean up the innards real good while they are at it.

I think you'll find a lot of rust/dirt/junk in there and not much grease.

Id go back to pick and pull and grab the internals too. the snap ring will be annoying to get out, but a quality set of needle nose pliers and small craftsman flat head screwdriver is all you need. I would strongly suggest replacing the snap ring once you get it off.

Oh, and Warn sells all the parts you'll need for the premium hubs.

 

[niferous]

This might be a stupid question but is it possible to put automatic hubs on these trucks?

 

[Recovry4x4]

This might be a stupid question but is it possible to put automatic hubs on these trucks?

Sure is! I'm assuming you mean the factory type from GM right? I have a set if you really want them.

 

[Cucvnut]

me too i have a set of factory hubs off my old 3/4 burban with a 10 bolt

 

[1stDeuce]

I'll add my $.02 and say that you didn't grab all the parts for the premiums and you need to go back to the junkyard. You need the internal parts too, which are retained by a snapring or two. (One on the axle shaft, one around the outer dia of the hub, IIRC... If all you did was pull six bolts and take the dials, you you didn't get any of the "premium" parts that matter.

That said, many of my friends ran warn premium hubs on their trucks when I was in college. They all broke them. Stripped splines and completely fragged spline parts... Looked like pot metal. The local Napa warranted them for a replacement or two, then decided we were doing something wrong... I saw some of them break with very little stress... I stuck with me OEM '78 Spicer hubs, with the plastic dial and chrome surround, and never had a problem. Ever. I never saw anyone else break one either. Can't go wrong with the old (Pre-80) spicer units.

And my dad beat the tar out of a set of auto locking hubs on our '82 blazer and never did break them. Took out an axle u-joint, but the hubs were fine... They don't like changing direction, as they need to unlock, then re-lock for the other direction, so rocking yourself out is not good for them. Other than that, they work fine if you keep them greased. Which applies to all hubs...
C

 

[allrevup]

Did you check? and made sure that the WARN preminum hubs are for the stock CUCV Dana 60, 30 spline outher shaft and not the after market 35.

 

[1stDeuce]

Note that he has a M1009, which has no Dana 60... It's a 10 bolt Corporate axle. He just didn't get all the parts when he picked and pulled, and he found out that the premium dials don't really bolt onto the stock guts well... Return trip, tell them you just didn't get all the hub parts you paid for.

And to answer the question, I believe that the guts of the premiums are better, but not much... I'm still sticking to OEM Spicer as the best HD units.
C

Like the post says i found a set of warm hubs at pick and pull and want to know if it is worth it to switch these.

And second does any one know the type of bolt needed to attach the warn hubs.
The stock bolts have to big of a head to fit on the warn hubs. And the bolts that came with the warn hubs are to small.

O and i have a m1009

Any help or suggestions welcome.

 

[ida34]

The stock hubs are made by Warn, but as you noticed a lot of the parts are plastic. They dont sell them anymore, but they used to be sold as the "standard" locking hubs, you could get them at JC Whitney last i saw them.

Standard Warn hubs are still available. I got some about a year ago at my local parts store. The only difference was they were quarter turn instead of the 3/4 turn on the old ones. By 1/4 turn I mean you only turn them 1/4 turn to engage and disengage them unlike the older ones the require almost a full turn to engage or disengage. The 1/4 turn seem to have a more positive engagement. They are outwardly identical to the stock military warn hubs except for chrome instead of black. I scuffed and painted mine black. I just need to put on the white stripe to give the quick visual most had to make sure they are unlocked normally.

Link to standard warn hubs.

 

[allrevup]

"I stand corrected" I did not notice the M1009 photo.
I would have to agree with you about the OEM supply Hubs lockouts, for most 4x4 uses are more then adequate. My M1008 had two different plastic OEM dials; one turn 1/4 of the way around, the second a almost a full turn.
Somewhere I read a comparison of the premium WARN, Super-lifts & Mile/Markers and the WARM premium cast look weaker, the seals and some internal parts did not do any better then the others.
I still used Warn premium, because I switch to 35 spline outers stubs and their availability, many applications and parts supply.

 

[M1009 Fiend]

Guy sorry about getting back to you so late thanks for all your advice. Ill will be going back to pick n pull and getting the rest of the innards. Question though they came off a suburban that looked like it had been built up an then rolled really good. How do i check to see if the innards will mate with my m1009?

What is the best way to check the axle at pick n pull?

Thanks for all the advice again

 

[4bogginchevys]

if thier internal locking hubs than thier right, you can check axles by twisting them at the joint(should have no slop) and inspect the cap where it meets the rubber seal, they start to "chip" here when thier old and tired

...BTW look for placement of groove on the stub shaft where snap ring fits, in different years they moved it around a little....but that coul be dana 44, I cant remember, i've had to run double snap rings because of worn bearings/groove changes. I've cut my own groove right where I wanted it, ONLY in my mud truck though!