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Warwag - m1028

Scarecrow1

Scarecrow1

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Hey in those temps I wouldn't have even went out of the house . The fact that it cranked is a tribute to american know how :p It looks like a great truck good luck with it .....
 
WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
For some reason my Thank you wont post. Thank you for the info. I just got in from crawling up and inside the the truck. The two lines coming out of the IP (Injector Pump) look good and new but I will replace them as you suggetsed. The 1 1/4" long piece of tube coming off of the hard line from up top to the Modulator valve looks to be the original piece. Its all cracked and hard. I took it off and blew into it while plugging the other end and could detect no leaks. I suspect the line is to riggid to make a complete seal on the ends and are leaking. I will replce all the lines Saturday since NAPA (are only automotive store) is closed today. If that doesnt fix the problem I will replace the Modulator valve and it to looks original. Here are some pics.
 
WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
pics
 

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WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
I am now looking for some type of engine heater. I dont think I can install a block heater with out pulling the engine but am not sure on that. Ive seen some inline heaters that use the radiatror hose or heater hose to heat up the fluid and pump it through the engine was the thermostat heats up. Does anyone have one installed on there CUCV and can you tell what you think about it. Thanks!
 
niferous

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
They make all kinds of block heaters and I'm sure there is one that will work without pulling the engine. If I remember NAPA had one that was under $40 and was easy to intall. If you do a search you'll find it.

On the hose mine looked like brand new because it was! I had replaced it once on that metal line but I did it wrong and it stretched and then split the hose right at the connection to the metal line. I had even taken it off and found no leaks. Like I said I'd replace it since it's cheap and would need it sooner or later anyhow and then go from there.
 
WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
OK. We have been having one he!! of a cold winter so far! -20 and colder without windchill. Usually it doesnt get down that cold till mid December. Ive been afraid to start m M1028 but have and she did start. But its not something that should be done if you dont have some type of engine block heater. I have spent a few hours researching how to accomplish heating the block. I know engine block heaters do pretty good. But I also wanted the engine oil to be heated. I have come across a few threads here on SS and I think I will do a combination of heaters. Two 600 watt block heaters. One mounted on each side middle of block if possible. Self sticking oil pan heater pad. Another one mouted to the Transmission pan and a small one mounted on the middle of the fuel tank. To be finished up with two insulated heated battey blankets. Some call them battery warmers. All of these put on a timer to turn on at 4 am to noon. This will give them 3 hours to heat everything up and keep my electrical bill down. Anyone have any input with this combo? We do see temps as low as -40 without windchill.
 
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WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
Well I ordered all the stuff needed for the "Ultimate Cold Weather Package":

2 freeze plug block heaters
2 battery warming pads
3 oil pan heaters. I will install 1 freeze plug block heater on each side of the engine block. The battery pad warmers will go under each battery. As far as the oil pan heaters one will go on the oil pan, one on the transmission pan and one on the fuel tank. Here is what I ordered.

Kat's Engine Heater - Chevrolet Trucks


Kat's Heaters - #24150 hotpad heater


Kat's Battery Pad & Blanket Heaters -22100, 22200,* 22400, 22401, 22500, 22600, 22700,


They were on sale and I couldnt pass them up!
 
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WARWAG

WARWAG

Active member
1,487
22
38
Location
Base 9. Some where in Nevada. We also have a pla
Well I guess Im going on a spending spree! Just ordered the relay for the Bulldog glowplug relay mod. That will be in Tuesday. I also ordered two door locks (in black) and those should arrive Wednesday. I also picked up some vacuum lines. Replaced the upper and lower lines and there was a nice diffrence at first but it started shifting hard and at a high rpm again. Not sure what the deelio is on that. I will recheck the lines tomorrow. Not sure why it worked and then started having problems again. The last thing I did today was change the oil and oil filter. I used Rotella T 15W-40. I went with that weight of oil since its getting down in the single digits so soon. But today was a warm one at 34 degrees. After sitting for a few days she started right up with no problems this morning. I drove it around checking the transmission and then took her to the back yard. Changed the oil and parked out front for a bit. Went out and had the wife film me start her. She fired right up! I really like this engine! Now for the bad. The shifting linkage is a bit loose. I would like to get this fixed but have NO CLUE as to how to do it right. The turn signal swith is also a bit worn out and should be replaced. Lastly I took her out on the highway and ran her at 55 MPH. Any groove in the road she wants to follow! Not death wobble but just wonders and follows grooves. Im not sure if this is the King Pins or ball joints. Not sure how to check the ball joints. I will be rebuilding the king pins so I guess I will see how it goes from there. Hopefully everything will arrive early next week so I can get her prepped for winter use. Here is a quick vid on the cold start up. I really love that Rotella T motor oil!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnxtUIJpbJE[/media]
 
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niferous

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
Just as a caution what caused my lower line to break right after I replaced it was that I cut it to short. There should be a bend in the line between the metal line and your modulator. Otherwise the vibration will rip the hose usually at the clamps if they are tight. If you cut the house to where it's a straight line between the metal line and the modulator you may want to check there first. I'd check there irregardless.
 
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