Thompsona3
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Broke down on the side of the road King pin bolts snapped gonna try to get her back on the road from the side of the road repAir. Anyone know where I can get these bolts?
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Was broke down on 16 mile Rd and i75 in Troy Mi
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Thompsona3
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Yes sir
Thompsona3
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And I meant studs not bolts my bad.
Thompsona3
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There broken off gonna try to get it to a parking lot to work on it. Thanks for the info though
853-7229welpro222
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I recommend ARP studs when u get chance to replace them again.
GM part number
37296 or 00462855
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/STUD-Steering-Knuckle-Support/2456614/00462855.html
Looking for cross-ref now
37296 or 00462855
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/STUD-Steering-Knuckle-Support/2456614/00462855.html
Looking for cross-ref now
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Thompsona3
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One of the 3 bolts that broke off are coming with me to Home Depot. Gonna try to match the thread with something and use a bolt extracted in a Hampton inn parking lot.
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1/2x20tpi. 2.75" long. You could use longer if needed. The nuts need to be tapered lug nuts. 1/2"x20 is a common lugnut on small trailers, so they should be pretty easy to find. Good luck. And as said go ARP when you can, their fasteners are the best.
Thompsona3
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I was able to baby it to my house with a ratchet strap. Thanks for everyone's help now time to remove the broke bolts. I tried an extractor already but they didn't work might have to redrill and tap unless someone has a suggestion to get the broken threads out?
red
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Heat up the knuckle around the stud then try another extractor
Post some pictures if you can. How many studs are broken? Are they broken off flush, above or below the surface of the knuckle? Are the ones that are broken screwed into blind or through holes?
The knuckle is critical, I wouldn't want to damage it in any way that would weaken it. If you are willing to give it a whirl yourself there are a bunch of different methods. The other option is that you pull the drivers side down until you have a bare knuckle and take it to a machine shop.
Rule #1... Never ever break off a hardned extractor or drill bit while trying to extract a broken bolt-screw-stud. If you do break off a hardned tool you are pretty much doomed, as it will have to be removed with carbide tooling or a plunge EDM machine (tap disintegrator)
As long as you don't violate rule #1 you can do it.
Clean up the part.
If it is broken off above the surface find a larger nut to slip over it. Weld the living daylights out of the nut, then quench with penetrant and or water depending on how comfortable you are with fire. Attempt to unscrew...
If it is broken off at or below the surface drench it with penetrant. You may be able to unscrew it with a punch and hammer if you can dimple it near the edge then strike the punch at an angle attempting to turn the broken part counterclockwise.
If the punch does not work it is time to get out the drill...
Personally I like to drill two or three small holes right at the edge of the root of the thread on the broken bolt-screw-stud. Always use a center punch to accurately lay out the holes. After the small holes are drilled I center punch the center of the bolt-screw-stud and drill a hole large enough to reach the small holes I drilled around the perimeter. Usually the remnants can be extracted in one piece with an extractor, or use a pin punch and break up the remaining bolt-screw-stud into 2 or three pieces (depending on how many holes you drilled around the perimeter). Hopefully that leaves you with a threaded hole in serviceable shape.
If that does not work and you have to drill out the entire mess...
Do not try to re-tap it. Buy a Helicoil kit, yes they are expensive, but it will give you a threaded hole stronger than it was originally.
The knuckle is critical, I wouldn't want to damage it in any way that would weaken it. If you are willing to give it a whirl yourself there are a bunch of different methods. The other option is that you pull the drivers side down until you have a bare knuckle and take it to a machine shop.
Rule #1... Never ever break off a hardned extractor or drill bit while trying to extract a broken bolt-screw-stud. If you do break off a hardned tool you are pretty much doomed, as it will have to be removed with carbide tooling or a plunge EDM machine (tap disintegrator)
As long as you don't violate rule #1 you can do it.
Clean up the part.
If it is broken off above the surface find a larger nut to slip over it. Weld the living daylights out of the nut, then quench with penetrant and or water depending on how comfortable you are with fire. Attempt to unscrew...
If it is broken off at or below the surface drench it with penetrant. You may be able to unscrew it with a punch and hammer if you can dimple it near the edge then strike the punch at an angle attempting to turn the broken part counterclockwise.
If the punch does not work it is time to get out the drill...
Personally I like to drill two or three small holes right at the edge of the root of the thread on the broken bolt-screw-stud. Always use a center punch to accurately lay out the holes. After the small holes are drilled I center punch the center of the bolt-screw-stud and drill a hole large enough to reach the small holes I drilled around the perimeter. Usually the remnants can be extracted in one piece with an extractor, or use a pin punch and break up the remaining bolt-screw-stud into 2 or three pieces (depending on how many holes you drilled around the perimeter). Hopefully that leaves you with a threaded hole in serviceable shape.
If that does not work and you have to drill out the entire mess...
Do not try to re-tap it. Buy a Helicoil kit, yes they are expensive, but it will give you a threaded hole stronger than it was originally.
sweetk30
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weld the next size bigger nut to the broken bolt / stud let it fully cool off . then try real easy by hand NO power tools .
if no go heat the area around it .
some times it takes a few nuts to get it to come out .
been doing this for years .
if no go heat the area around it .
some times it takes a few nuts to get it to come out .
been doing this for years .
icecreamman
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Try a couple of different size left hand twist drill bits if you have the room to get a drill in there.
Thompsona3
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So I ended up takeing the knuckle off. My dads a machinest and so am I (but I'm currently laid off) going to through it up on a bridge port and attempt to drill it out. This also gives me a chance to do my inner axle seals. Thanks for everyone's help.