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water in engine

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taskunitbruiser

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Fun times. I have been working outside on the engine and had the air intake tube off. I put the hood down last night when finished working. It rained overnight. I noticed water collected in the pipe going into the turbo. I stuck a shop vac in the hole and sucked up all visible water. I suspected/hoped the water wouldn't have gone into the turbo, but guessing it did. I also checked the oil dipstick and it was not milky. I tried to start the engine after, it turns over but doesnt start.

There is standing water on the V-8 valley under the injection pump, but that shouldn't matter, correct? I figured if I moved the vehicle and the engine got hot that water would fall off and/or evaporate.

What is the next step? Taking all the glow plugs out and turning it over? Get water out of the "V"? How screwed am I?
 
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taskunitbruiser

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The truck was sloped down (front lower than the back). The turbo is behind the intake pipe. Either not much flowed in because of this or the turbo fins blocking passage or it filled it the top since the water in the intake was standing. I would think if it filled to the top the engine would not turn over.

I thought the hood would keep it dry, but I think the water ran off the roof and went under the hood. I had not expected a major rain either, feel dumb nonetheless. Usually I will keep a rag in an intake pipe to keep dust out, but don't think it would have made a different here.

Are there any decompression valves to try? Also are removing the injectors easier than removing the glow plugs?
 
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taskunitbruiser

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87cr250r said:
Whatever you do, work fast. Get the engine running ASAP to stop the corrosion.

Important, before you start cranking with the starter crack the drain plug. If you've got water there you'll want to change the oil first.
Click to expand...
Just a pan underneath and see if water drips out?
 
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NotThatGuy

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taskunitbruiser said:
Fun times. I have been working outside on the engine and had the air intake tube off. I put the hood down last night when finished working. It rained overnight. I noticed water collected in the pipe going into the turbo. I stuck a shop vac in the hole and sucked up all visible water. I suspected/hoped the water wouldn't have gone into the turbo, but guessing it did. I also checked the oil dipstick and it was not milky. I tried to start the engine after, it turns over but doesnt start.

There is standing water on the V-8 valley under the injection pump, but that shouldn't matter, correct? I figured if I moved the vehicle and the engine got hot that water would fall off and/or evaporate.

What is the next step? Taking all the glow plugs out and turning it over? Get water out of the "V"? How screwed am I?
Click to expand...
I'd start sending your oil change samples to Blackstone.

Blackstone Labs Oil Test Kits
 
Mogman

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You are lucky you have a turbo engine, the water would have to fill the turbo to the point it passed through the crossover on the turbo outlet before you would be in real trouble, so you have to evaluate at what level the water was in when you found it compared to the level of the turbo outlet crossover to the intake manifold.
If you feel strongly that did not happen I would definitely pull all the intake piping to the turbo inlet to make sure all the water is out.
Of course all this should have been done before trying to start the engine, since you did and it did not lock up you may be OK.

So you have to ask yourself "do you feel lucky"? a mistake here could cost you dearly.

You also have to ask yourself why it did not start, it's not like it has an electronic ignition or spark plugs that could be affected by water, so if it should have started then it would have, the question becomes now "did it crank normally"? or did it not start because the cylinders were locking up?

I would know the answers to these questions, but if you are not sure then going through all the effort to pull all of the glow plugs would be cheap insurance, even though there is a possibility damage has already been done.

I also use Blackstone, love those guys, the sample for the Duravee is on the kitchen table because to my surprise it would not fit through the outside drop box I tried to use yesterday at the post office, will get it in the mailbox tomorrow.

EDIT, this is unlike the NA engine, virtually every drop of water that gets into the intake of a NA engine goes directly into the cylinders.
 

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87cr250r

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Just back the plug off a few threads. If there is water in the pan it will drip water first.

Don't bother with oil samples. You don't have time. The goal here is to get the engine started as soon as possible. Crack the drain plug and pull the glow plugs.
 
Mogman

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87cr250r said:
Just back the plug off a few threads. If there is water in the pan it will drip water first.

Don't bother with oil samples. You don't have time. The goal here is to get the engine started as soon as possible. Crack the drain plug and pull the glow plugs.
Click to expand...
"87cr250r is of course correct, oil samples should only be taken from engines in running condition and the oil type and miles is known, they are an invaluable tool but not called for in this case, I am sorry if it seemed I was endorsing taking an oil sample at this time.
 
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taskunitbruiser

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So I went the glow plug route. What a pain! The NA trucks without A/C are much easier on the passenger side to work on. 4 of my 8 plugs ohm tested bad, so glad I am replacing them. 2 of mine were swollen: 1 I managed to wiggle out, the other I needed the Black Dog extraction tool. I cracked the drain plug and oil dripped, but I will retest on completely level ground when I get it moving. Recall dipstick was the same level so dont think got any water in the crankcase.

I turned the engine over a couple times with the glows out and just watched the injector spray come out. Have not finished the glow reinstall but getting close.

Does anyone think maybe just some water or moisture in the turbo prevented the crank? It ran fine immediately prior to the rain problem.
 
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taskunitbruiser

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Retiredwarhorses said:
I’ve had turbo chargers full to the top with water and no water in the engine…
Click to expand...
Turning the engine a few times will push it through to clean the turbo after taking out the glows or injectors, correct? Are you making the point that cylinder corrosion is unlikely since your water sat in the turbo? Is that what you did?
 
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taskunitbruiser

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87cr250r said:
Your glow plugs were bad. That's what probably caused the no-start.
Click to expand...
And a little moisture just tipped it over to a no start? It would be highly coincidental to happen here. It started harder than expected for last month and I suspected glow plugs, but the engine would crank the day before the rain issue. I have heard some say glows are only necessary in cold weather, and while I dont know if the engine would start in warm weather with none of them working, it just seems extra starter and battery strain with some dead.
 
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87cr250r

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It's very hard to start a diesel engine after water ingestion. A recent example I had was a Cat C9. The water cooled aftercooler failed and fogged the engine with so much water the engine shut down. I hired the local Cat dealer to replace the aftercooler which they did but could not get the engine started. They came back with a $45k suggestion to inframe overhaul the engine. After they left I told the new guy to put an entire can of ether in the engine. It started and has been running since.
 
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NotThatGuy

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Mogman said:
"87cr250r is of course correct, oil samples should only be taken from engines in running condition and the oil type and miles is known, they are an invaluable tool but not called for in this case, I am sorry if it seemed I was endorsing taking an oil sample at this time.
Click to expand...
So when is a good time to get a "Baseline" using an oil analysis?

I've found that the sooner a "Baseline" condition is recorded, (via a sample oil analysis), the easier potential problems and excessive wear indicators can be found.
 
Mogman

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If I have an engine with an unknown history and condition, and there is no indication that there is a problem with the oil, contamination etc, I will start the engine let it warm up and then take a baseline sample, I ALWAYS change the oil and filter at that time.
You have to take into consideration that you do not know how many miles are on the oil or even the brand-weight of the oil so there is no reason to pay the extra $10 for a TBN (basically the point of "life" the oil is in by the remaining additives) but you will know if there is any significant amount of antifreeze, metals etc that are in the oil.
The next full oil change will give you a better idea of how things are.
I did order a TBN on the DuraVee this time because I let it go 4000mi instead of the normal 3000mi and am just curious, I normally don't do that test because in this case the factory recommended max miles on the Duramax LMM is 7,500 but that is I believe for a full synthetic and I run a blend, (Delvac 1300) and oil and filters are cheap ins.
I don't do this on every engine oil change but try to catch every piece of important equipment every couple years or so.
 
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